Hotel Vilòn

And so to Rome, the city that makes you feel as if you arrived by time machine rather than aeroplane. Our departure was an early one, landing just in time for lunch on an unusually warm November full of blue skies and sunshine.

Hotel Vilòn is just off Via del Corso, right by the Tiber River; its entrance an unassuming doorway. The building – previously owned by the Borghese family – dates back to the mid 16th century and its authentic Roman spirit remains, with a little modernising from a trio of creatives: Giampiero Panepinto designed the public spaces; Roman scenographer Paolo Bonfini created each guest room with his cinematic flair; Florentine photographer Massimo Listri curated the artwork, including his own photographs and vases.

Walking through the deco-inspired doors it feels as if your art-dealer friend just invited you stay at their Roman palazzo, so personable are the surroundings. In fact it’s hard not to leave Hotel Vilòn without wanting to redecorate your house. Each room has its own look and feel, from the monochrome tiled entrance to the lounge area with candy striped sofas and stacks of coffee-table books. The restaurant, Adelaide, is adorned with zingy emerald silk panels and a large cabinet of curiosities standing centre stage. It’s a place with personality where everything, down to the Richard Ginori china, feels individual and unique to the hotel.

Mr Smith and I arrive a few hours early but our room is ready for us within minutes, though not before we’re offered a drink at the bar: a much needed cappuccino. 

We had booked a Vilòn Charming Deluxe. There are three in the 18-bedroom hotel and only one that comes complete with a Jacuzzi – ours happened to be that very one. Alongside the most decadent marble-swathed bathroom, a large bedroom with Egyptian cotton sheets and a huge wardrobe space, there is a fully stocked – free – mini bar. 

In the summer, however, with Rome is at its most scorching, I‘d suggest the Charming Terrace, Melangolo-suite or Borghese suite as they come with their own private balconies and a view over the Borghese Palace Gardens.

Once settled we left our luxurious cavern to go to our favourite lunch spot, Giulio Passami L’Olio, lounging outside with a carafe of wine and empty plates that had only moments earlier housed towers of fresh linguine, the first pasta dish of many.

After a day spent wandering around the iconic sites, from the Pantheon to the Trevi Fountain, fuelled by pasta and a quick afternoon stop at Giolitti for a skyscraper sized cone of salted caramel ice cream, we were ready to head back.

Our room had been turned down for the night, the heavy velvet curtain drawn, some beautiful cerulean towelling slippers put out for us and the next day’s weather report printed on a neat card on our bedside table. Everything was so inviting that an unintentional nap resulted in a rather late dinner… I blame the bed.

The night ended in a wine bar where we stayed till closing, walking back through the yellow glow of the street lights. Rome is truly magical at night.

Morning was slightly rushed due to an early booking to see the Colosseum and some wine-induced snoozing. A mistake, it turned out. Hotel Vilòn’s breakfast is fabulous and the best way to enjoy it would be in a laissez-faire manner. After a shot of juice, a latte, a rather confused breakfast plate on my behalf (I couldn’t resist the fresh fruit, croissants and…fresh custard) I also ordered pancakes which were light and sweet – the perfect start to the day.

Managing to just make the Colosseum in time, we then spent the rest of the day at various galleries, only stopping for lunch where Mr Smith claimed to have had the best tiramisu of his life. A mere 25km of walking later and we got back to the hotel. We could hardly move. This is where having the only room with a jacuzzi really comes into play. 

After a quick refresh we decided to try out the hotel’s restaurant, Adelaide, a popular choice for most guests judging by the quite hubbub of Saturday night chatter in the dining room and limited amount of free tables. We sat in a hidden nook, using the warm moody glow from our candlelit table to peruse the menu until our waiter appeared.

We began with an organic white wine from Puglia and some rather ostentatious sounding starters. From my seat I enjoyed watching the flurry of white chef hats from afar as the evening’s dishes were prepared. And what dishes. For my main I chose a butternut and pumpkin pasta, perfectly al dente, and Mr Smith went for a homemade gnocchi and duck ragu. Dessert was my favourite: a meringue with chestnut cream which I ate with as much excitement as a seven-year old at their own birthday party. By the end of dinner I felt as tired as one, and just about made it up to bed.

On Sundays the hotel hosts a brunch with a live jazz band who were playing during our check-out; the delightful thwack of the double bass soundtracking our departure. Just before we leave I glance at the guest book. The last comment reads: ‘The best hotel we stayed at in Italy’. We’re inclined to agree.