Casa Monti

Imagine a woman who’s pinned all her past, present and future hopes on a super-fun, historically rich, glamorous yet low-key 40th-birthday trip to Italy. Well, that’s me. So, the hotel where I saw in the big 4-0 was high stakes. And I’m going to boldly say: Casa Monti in Rome surpassed all my expectations, delivering pure, joyful Italian luxury, bags of character, and proximity to the key archaeological hotspots. 

But let’s start at the start, as that’s where all good yarns do. We arrived at Rome's Termini train station early, after a few days geeking out in Pompeii. It’s only a 15-minute walk to the hotel so we wandered over, drinking in the neighbourhood as we went. The area around Monti is extraordinary in that it’s so close to the Colosseum, but it could not feel less touristy. It’s chic and bohemian in a laid-back way. The streets are cobbled, lined with coffee shops, galleries, bookshops and boutiques. Somewhere between window-shopping and trying to identify the picturesque climbers tumbling down the façades, we hit a jolly, yolk-yellow Fiat 500. The ultimate signpost. Even after a few grappas. 

Walking into the lobby, it’s pure visual theatre. Laura Gonzalez’s work is a masterclass in how to create an opulent, escapist space that still feels welcoming. It references the area’s heritage, past and present, and the maximalist palettes in earthy tones provide a sense of joie de vivre. It’s cinematic, but you feel part of it. It’s tactile and welcoming, but undeniably opulent. It’s a lot to balance — to be a place of both jubilation and relaxation — but it's done so authentically, print on glorious print. 

The staff greet you with real warmth — possibly because, unbeknown to me, my husband had been in secret correspondence with them for weeks. They apologised that they couldn’t check us in yet, which we reiterated was fine as it was only 11am. Instead they gave us a strong coffee and an even stronger grounding in all the delights on offer in the local area and beyond. Armed with my heavily annotated Monti map, we decided to spend the day exploring the vintage-fashion scene. As avid walkers, we were perfectly placed and nowhere was really more than about 40 minutes away on foot. We wandered past the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill, before heading off to the other side of town and the Borghetto Flaminio Market — a goldmine for designer vintage and antique curios, and handily close to the sprawling and romantic Villa Borghese Gardens if you’re looking for an afternoon of free fun. From there, you can head down to the River Tiber and beyond for sights like the Vatican, Villa Farnesina and Castel Sant'Angelo. And if you want to avoid the crowds, set your alarm for dawn — to see all the ancient architecture without the associated tourists is a treat worth getting up early for. You can do a loop in the couple of hours before the city really wakes up. 

At check-in, we found we'd been very generously upgraded to a suite, so the palatial and beautifully appointed room we expected was even more so. Having stayed in a gorgeous but completely un-soundproofed hotel in Naples, we were pretty exhausted, so arriving and hearing the sweet sound of absolutely nothing was thrilling. The complimentary CBD gummies weren’t needed, just a lack of car honrns and a comfy bed. The space was spacious but intimate, pattern-clashed and packed with personality. The palette of burnt oranges and lively pastels evoked a pied-à-terre fit for a Fifties starlet. Meticulously thought out but wryly so — there were areas to work, rest and play, but absolutely every inch has been decorated to evoke joy.

The design of the hotel is so clever and the communal spaces are testament to this. At the spa, the visual language remains, but the colours diffuse, the prints round off. There's an oversize Roman-inspired Jacuzzi, complete with a mural. It makes so much sense that this city-centre space leans into the restorative powers of nature courtesy of Susanne Kaufmann, a brand which harnesses Alpine ingredients to rejuvenate and rebalance. I had the best facial with Ivan, who combined massage and masks to soothe my skin and my senses, and I'm pretty sure I looked about 10 years younger for my birthday — a real boon. 

The restaurant is another edit of the best of Rome. Head there for a lavish breakfast of the finest local fare from cereals, fruits, meats and cheeses to all manner of eggs and, if you can fit it in, a maritozzi bun (spoiler: there’s a little space in your stomach that actually expands for precisely this purpose — doctors call it the maritozzi gap). But in the evening, with the lights dimmed, the space becomes something else entirely — a sexy little trattoria, with a streamlined menu curated around excellent produce and iconic dishes. Yes, we had aubergine parmigiana and a tiramisu, and yes, they were incredible. The bar is more of the same. But do book because it gets full at sunset — what else would you expect from a rooftop bar with fantastic classic-with-a-twist cocktails and dreamy views over the city?

But the thing that makes Casa Monti a true joy (and what underpins any successful luxury hotel) is the staff. You need warmth and playfulness. The ability to anticipate guests' needs and wants, alongside an encyclopaedic knowledge of the brand DNA — and the team here nailed it. As I said, my husband had been emailing Melania and Giovanni for weeks to sort out some surprises and what they delivered made our stay one I’ll never forget. A birthday cake at breakfast, a room filled with flowers and balloons (facilitated by a series of code words), and a general commitment to making our trip a momentous one. And I'm not even mad that it wasn’t unique to me — they genuinely love exceeding expectations and maximising enjoyment for every guest that walks through their doors. It was a little paradise; it felt like a secret only we knew, and we will absolutely be back to experience Casa Monti's specific brand of la dolce vita. We suggest you do too.