48 hours in… Madrid

It’s not often that a country’s capital seems like the less obvious choice for a weekend break, but this rings true when it comes to Madrid — the heartland hub is often overlooked in favour of beachy Barcelona, culture-steeped Seville or the hedonistic Balearic isles.

But go for the Spanish underdog, and you’ll find rewards in many forms: elegant terrazas for sipping tinto de verano, a gleaming trio of museums and postcard-perfect park. Throw in plenty of pinchos and some dreamy boutique hotels, and you have yourself a very lovely 48 hours in Madrid indeed.

FRIDAY EVENING

Adolfo Suárez Madrid–Barajas Airport is less than a 30-minute drive from Madrid’s city centre. On arrival, base yourself at in-the-thick-of-it Brach Madrid, whose understated façade on main drag Gran Vía gives way to Philippe Starck-designed interiors, a street-surveying rooftop terrace and convivial pâtisserie. Bespoke murals and views from the suites will give you a taste for the city, but you can seek out Spanish flavours at the hotel’s grand-café-style eatery, or at buzzy Mercado San Miguel, a 15-minute stroll away. Within its wrought-iron-and-glass embrace, you’ll find plenty of ways to aperitivo: slices of tortilla paired with a crisp caña (in Madrid, you can also order un doble, which is closer to a pint of lager), or anchovy-laced gildas complemented by sweet vermouth.

This pitstop should tide you over for a later-than-usual dinner at Rosalía-approved Casa Macareno; a traditional, tile-adorned tavern with moreish tapas and sharing plates — the sea-bream tiradito and jamón-and-truffle croquetas are house favourites. You might be ready to wrap up your evening by this point, but the locals are just getting started. Follow suit and head for La Coquette, a cavernous blues bar with lively jazz acts. There’s often a queue, which moves quickly once each set ends, but if you need sustenance while you wait, centuries-old Chocolatería San Ginés, just around the corner, is open 24 hours for chocolate-dunked, takeaway churros.

SATURDAY MORNING

You’ll be relieved to know that, given its penchant for late nights, Madrid isn’t a city that rises early — most cafés don’t open until at least 9am, sometimes later on the weekend. Hotel Urso is an alternative basecamp to the busy centro stays; as well as its small spa and pool, its location — poised between swish Chueca and university hangout Malasaña — provides some calm. Stroll up to verdant Plaza de Olavide, which offers wholesome vignettes with its greenery-framed tables and in-the-know eateries (return later in the day for natural-wine bar Masa or hot-honey-loving Pizza Pronto). Stop at hole-in-the-wall Alma Nomad Bakery for its buttery, sweet and savoury pastries, thickly frosted cakes and focaccia sandwiches. It draws a crowd, but its treats are worth the wait.

Pair with a coffee from neighbour Toma Café and you’re all set to mosey down through Chueca, with unhurried stops at its galleries and boutiques, such as Ehrhardt Flórez Gallery and Beatriz Furest. After hand-in-hand strolls around the Real Jardín Botánico, seek out more romanticism at the national museum trifecta: El Prado, Reina Sofía and Thyssen-Bornemisza. You’ll be in good company at each, with bucket-list works from Picasso, Goya and Velázquez adorning the walls.

SATURDAY AFTERNOON

Your eyes have feasted; now it’s time to sate your culinary appetite. Falafel-stuffed pittas with all the dips are vibrant favourites at Jam, or long-loved tapas bar Jurucha serves up fuss-free traditional bites (stand at the counter to blend in with the locals). Retiro Park is a manicured playground for whimsical picnics, row-boat jaunts over the lake and outdoor classical concerts; then loop up to Salamanca, Madrid’s well-heeled ‘hood. You could opt for a siesta or a botanical hammam at spa-blessed Rosewood Villa Magna, or swap flopping for shopping in the surrounding boutiques — we like Loewe, Alohas and concept store Wow.

SATURDAY EVENING

It’s Saturday night in a capital city, so use lively La Latina as your catwalk for your latest buys. Juicy organic wines, mod-Spanish plates and bottle-lined interiors make candle-lit Corchito Bar de Vinos an intimate spot for dinners para dos. Add some spice to date night with a screening at Sala Equis: once an adult cinema, it now screens art-house films from its orange-velvet banquettes — after, mingle with the city’s creatives at its industrial-chic bar. The night is still young by Spanish standards, so continue onto Candela or Ciriaco Brown, which both stay open way past most bedtimes.

SUNDAY MORNING

If you have the stamina for it, you might find yourself among the early-bird vendors setting up for El Rastro, Madrid’s weekly flea market, on Sunday morning. But however late you stayed out the night before, brunching first is always a good idea. Nab New York-inspired bagels from Mazál, all things matcha at Hanso Café, or Spanish-style eggs at Pez Tortilla. Then consider yourself refuelled and ready for rummaging through knick-knacks and vintage treasure troves along La Latina’s market-lined streets.

SUNDAY AFTERNOON

Sundays are for traditions, and one we’re happy to abide by is la hora de vermut (vermouth o’clock), which typically rings in before lunchtime. La Gildería is a trendy take on a traditional watering-hole, with plenty of namesake skewers and its house vermut; you could also mark the occasion at Mercado de San Fernando, where apéritifs roll into bit-of-everything lunches of Spanish seafood (La Tranca), Mexican tacos (La Tentación Taquería) and Chilean classics (La Guatona). Pick up some multilingual reading material from Librería Desperate Literature on your way to Temple of Debod, a scenic hillside park that’s washed in golden light come sunset. The views from Ocean Drive Madrid’s rooftop terrace are just as impressive, overlooking the Teatro Real and out towards the Royal Palace.

SUNDAY EVENING

Sample regional cheese and wine at boldly blue La Colmada or sip tintos de verano at one of Plaza Dos de Mayo’s haunts. Then swap the dinner table for a Flamenco tablao at Flamenco de Leones, the crowning club at all-residences-retreat Casa Faraona, which delivers culture in spades. You can order food and drinks, but all eyes are firmly on the stage — and behind you: the emotion-filled cries of singers, rhythmic castanet clicks and swishing of enviable skirts unfolds all around the space. A fitting way to ring out a weekend in Madrid. ¡Olé!

NEED TO KNOW

Transport Madrid is a small city that doesn’t see the need for rushing, so opt for walking where you can. Apps like Uber and Bolt work well and are affordable ways to get in from the airport, though taxis have a flat rate for the journey, too. The Metro is quick and easy to use: you’ll need to buy a Multicard from a machine or kiosk, and you can add one or 10 journeys as credit (the cards are non-personal and you only need to swipe when you go in, so you could get one between two to share across a weekend).

When to go Madrid charms throughout the year, and its epicurean set-up means there’s no shortage of ways to entertain yourself indoors (at a taberna, museum or food market). That said, the city’s alfresco appeal peaks in May, with free San Isidro festivities and parties marking calendars, as well as the opening of picturesque public pools. August is muy caliente and many leave the city; those that stay are rewarded with verbenas (street festivals) across La Latina.

Good to know Extend your 48 hours in Madrid with an escape-the-city day trip: El Escorial has an impressive Renaissance complex, plus scenic hiking trails in the surrounding mountains; former Spanish capital Toledo is a melting pot of cultures and architectural styles; and Segovia is renowned for its aqueduct and suckling-pig dishes. Journeys take between 25 minutes to an hour and depart from Madrid’s Atocha or Chamartín stations.

What to buy You’ll want to save room in your suitcase for your El Rastro finds — from small jewellery buys and vintage furnishings, to vermouth and too-pretty-to-eat tins of fish to recreate la hora de vermut at su casa; or ladybird-like flamenco dresses and fans from D’Pertiñez.

Ready for a weekend in Madrid? Discover our full collection of hotels in the Spanish capital