The First Musica

Worth getting out of bed for

The right bank of the Tiber, home to the Vatican City, polished residential rioni Prati, and to the south, hipster hangout Trastevere. Usually, visitors gravitate towards the left bank and historic centre, but the First Musica positions you within walking distance of Rome’s biggest draws, and shows you how it feels to call it home. You could easily walk yourself through thousands of years of history – you’re 10 minutes from the Spanish Steps and shopping arteries, vias del Corso and dei Condotti (the hotel has a personal shopper on call if needed); 15 minutes from the Pantheon and Piazza Navona; 20 minutes from the Trevi fountain; 30 minutes from Quirinal Hill and its presidential palazzo. However, the hotel’s curated itineraries mix beloved experiences with the extra special. Say, breakfast on the Belvedere Courtyard before a tour of the Vatican, then – after visitors leave – the chance to see the Pope’s private worshipping place, the Niccoline Chapel with its Fra Angelico frescoes; spiral down the grand Bramante Staircase; and then see the Sistine Chapel and St Peter’s Basilica all by yourselves. Or, really dig into the foundations of the city – almost literally – on a subterranean tour of Roman catacombs, a basilica, prison and frescoes. Then, whirl through masterworks by Bernini, Caravaggio, Raphael, Titian and more in the Borghese Villa, followed by the chance to see the Colosseum’s underbelly, and rooms where gladiators and animals would be held before shows, and a tour of the Forum. Sure, the Romans were very impressive and the Colosseum is big and old, yadda yadda –  what about the food? Well, staff can send you on a food tour, to cookery lessons that cover all the major Italian food groups (pizza and pasta making, meatballs, pastries and tiramisù), or on a jaunt to Said Since 1923 chocolate factory. Or, journey out to Tiburtino to explore former pasta factory, now multidisciplinary modern-art hub, Pastificio Cerere. And, cross back over the Tiber to acquaint yourself with its fascinating neighbourhoods: pause in a café along the Jewish Quarter’s Via del Portico d’Ottavi; hang in Trastevere, boutique-hopping and musing over Renaissance Villa Farnesina’s artworks; and crossing to Tiber Island, where an open-air film festival is held each summer.

Local restaurants

Sure, music might be the food of love, but does it really compare to a steaming bowl of cacio e pepe, ravioli topped with delicate truffle-shaving confetti, or a cocoa-dusted slab of tiramisù? No. Paring down Rome’s dining scene can be a daunting task, but luckily there are some top choices close to the hotel. Unassuming yet authentic eatery Hostaria Da Pietro, close to the Borghese Gardens, does Roman classics – veal saltimbocca, meatballs, pork-cheek carbonara – with aplomb. In Trastevere, Taverna Trilussa brings your pasta to you still sizzling in the pan; try the secret recipe ‘ravioli mimosa’, or fill your table with focaccia piled with burrata, confit cherry tomatoes, Cantabrian anchovies and courgette flowers; fillet steak with foie gras and truffle in a port reduction, or croquettes with beef ragout and Castelmagno cheese. Il Marchese is themed around 1980s Italian comedy Il Marchese del Grillo, but you don’t need to have seen it to appreciate its fried green tomatoes with smoked mozzarella, duck ragout pappardelle with an orange and rosemary crumble, and pork belly in an apple cream. Rooftop Hi Res has a more modern menu; langoustine tartare has a spritz of lime and sprinkling of pink pepper, turbot’s paired with Sardinian fregola and smoked asparagus, and cappellacci is stuffed with lamb, chard and pecorino. 

Local cafés

Just across the river is Antico Caffè Greco, an 18th-century drinkery with scarlet walls, gilt chandeliers and an impressive history: Keats, Byron and more furious scribblers drank here. In Prati, Sciascia Caffè 1919 is light on seating but heavy on vintage charm, and serves tasty granitas, apéritifs and artisan chocolate bars alongside brisk espressos.

Local bars

Head to Bar San Calisto in Trastevere for cheap drinks and a sociable alfresco setting. Closer to home, in Prati, there’s Rome’s oldest jazz club Alexanderplatz, where music kicks off daily at 9pm on a stage under an antique stone arch. And for cocktails, hit glamorous Thirties-themed bar Argot Prati, where imaginative drinks can be paired with small plates – take the caprese-inspired Tomato Fields Forever, with pomegranate juice, tomato, Sencha tea, vodka and buffalo-mozzarella foam.