Nirjhara

Along Bali’s southwest coast, beyond the Canggu crowds and Seminyak’s influencers, there’s a secret place – a hidden oasis of natural beauty neatly concealed within the sleepy surf town of Kedungu. 

Discovering Nirjhara hotel is like stepping into an optical illusion. As you approach it through Kedungu’s dusty backroads, it feels as if there isn’t space for it. But then you find yourself mouth open, gawking at the entrance’s magnificent bamboo archway. It was at this moment that Mrs Smith squeezed my hand and forgave the punishingly long drive. 

Of course, discovering a secret world requires a bit of a quest. Ours had taken Mrs Smith and I – and our two-and-a-half year old – on a three-week self-driving road trip around Bali (anyone who has travelled Bali’s roads will know how brave, mad, ambitious…this is). We’d fought through the traffic of Denpasar; navigated the volcanic craters of Mount Batur; descended a death-defying, single-lane, vertigo-inducing mountain road to reach the deserted beaches of Tejakula; and drove high into the Munduk mountains, before finally heading back to the coast and arriving at Nirjhara, hot, sweaty and with my ‘driver’s knee’ still twitching from overworking the brake on our descent. 

Wandering through the hotel feels like walking through a botanical garden – the manicured grounds are flush with tropical plants and native flowers. A waterfall and river run along the western boundary, and it’s this sound of flowing water which provides the soundtrack to your stay. The nature surrounding and enveloping the hotel is seamlessly integrated with the architecture, leaving you feeling completely overwhelmed. It’s an escape from city life unlike anything else. 

Hungry after our long drive, we headed straight for the restaurant for some lunch. The space is open and overlooks the infinity pool, the aforementioned river and the green rice fields beyond. The menu covers Western classics and local Indonesian fare, all with a refined and delicate twist. We opt for fresh summer rolls, bursting with veg and a peanut dipping sauce that I would happily eat by the spoonful. Plus a poke bowl packed with plump line-caught tuna and zingy ponzu dressing. Lastly, a delicious tropical quinoa salad filled with pomelo, mango, sweetcorn and crispy tempeh. Meanwhile, our little Smith makes herself at home and chooses spaghetti pomodoro from the kids’ menu. 

As I ease back into the comfortable sofa and gaze out across the restaurant – sleek and sophisticated in a mix of natural stone and dark wood – I’m tickled by the sight of little Smith sat topless in her high-chair, smearing sauce all over herself. Luckily, Balinese hospitality (together with their delight in children) means the staff are all amused and take it in their stride, bringing her extras and going to great lengths in the coming days to indulge their youngest guest. 

Post-lunch we stagger to our room, one of the hotels’ River Pavillions – a one-bedroom villa tastefully decked in dark-wood panelling, muted colours and tasteful artworks. It would feel right at home in an episode of Architectural Digest’s Open Door series. The bathroom is relentlessly stylish and makes you wish you had a more extensive skincare regimen in order to spend more time enjoying it. There’s a bath tub, rain shower, his-and-hers vanities and toiletries which excite Mrs Smith very much. 

The villa has a large deck overlooking the river with an opulent freestanding second tub outdoors. I stare longingly at it and imagine myself sliding in for a long sunset soak with a cold beer in hand. Little Smith has other ideas and immediately strips off and transforms it into the world’s most decadent paddling pool. 

If soaking in your own outdoor bath, swimming in a 25-metre infinity pool or lounging on one of the hotel’s many day-beds isn’t enough to keep you busy, then Nirjhara also puts on a wonderfully varied schedule of activities. From yoga in a custom-built sala, which sits just above the river, to screenings in a nine-seater cinema room. The following day I opted for one of the hotel’s guided bike rides to Tanah Lot. 

Anyone who has been to Bali will know that you can very quickly suffer temple fatigue – there are over 10,000 after all. The experience of visiting some of the bigger and more famous ones (such as Tanah Lot) can be overwhelming as you muscle your way through the crowds in the heat. But cycling here at 7am feels like something of a hack. We take a leisurely 40-minute ride through small towns, farms and endless rice fields. It’s serene and memorable as I witness local village life, a privilege of being off the beaten track. 

The temple itself is near deserted but for a small smattering of keen tourists and locals; it’s truly breathtaking, built high on a rocky outcrop with the crashing surf beneath. I take lots of deep breaths and remember why we came here. 

The rest of our time at Nirjhara is spent soaking up everything the hotel has to offer. The luxurious swimming pool, exquisite food and the hotel’s proximity to Kedungu, which has a smattering of trendy cafés and stunning surf beach. Mrs Smith and I even manage to carve out time for a spa treatment, which – much like the rest of the service at Nirjhara – is an unbelievable experience. 

After little Smith is in bed on our final night, I wander up to the Ambu restaurant and bar for an early evening drink. The skies clear just long enough to reveal Mount Batur in the distance, peeking above the clouds. It’s a picture-postcard view that feels like it has been unchanged for centuries. I can’t help but wonder how long this place will remain a secret, and envy everyone who will come – even if braving the meandering journey – and discover it for the very first time.