Need to know
Forty-seven stone dwellings, including 21 suites.
Noon; earliest check-in, 3pm.
Double rooms from $683.43 (CNY4,700), excluding tax at 15 per cent.
Rates usually include WiFi, daily afternoon tea (served in Fayun Place) and breakfast: choose from Chinese or Western options, served in the Steam House or the Restaurant, respectively.
Fayun Place is the heart of the hotel, home to a variety of cultural activities and performances. The two-storey building dates back to the 1800s and includes a relaxation area and internal courtyards. There are plans afoot to turn the upper storey into a whisky and cigar bar.
At the hotel
Traditional bathhouse; a heritage building dating back to the 1800s, where cultural activities take place; access to temples and a monastery; swimming pool. In rooms: TV, DVD player, minibar.
Our favourite rooms
Amanfayun Deluxe Suites 16–18 are perched high on the hill, with sweeping views of the valley and oodles of space (clocking in at 135sq m, compared to the 66sq m rooms and 88sq m suites).
There’s a serene 20m pool set in lush greenery, with views of the mountains.
Not your usual spa – this is a Chinese bathhouse (none of the rooms have bath tubs). Get your steam on in one of the three rooms, each of which has a circular tub for two, a steam room and double shower.
Your biggest emerald earrings/cuff links, to match the vivid greenery of the West Lake region; temple-appropriate attire for early morning monastery visits.
Little Smiths are welcome, but they’ll have to entertain themselves (there’s no crèche or kids club).