La Foleia

Worth getting out of bed for

Star of the show around these parts is Lake Maggiore: an endlessly scenic and vast body of water that spans three regions across two countries. La Foleia is just a five-minute drive from the lake's southern shores, from where water-based activities and fine road trips abound.

Try a drive up to the gloriously green Alpine hills that provide the backdrop to pretty Verbania, from where bucolic wanders through lush valleys and precipitous peaks are punctuated by chocolate-box villages and ridiculous views over the Borromean Gulf to the islands. Or head along the eastern shore for the likes of Angera, with its picturesque hillside churches and imposing mediaeval fortress, which houses a rather less fearsome collection of 1,000 dolls from across Europe. 

Strike out on a self-guided road trip to Piedmont’s most celebrated vineyards around Ghemme and Gattinara, renowned for their bold and spicy reds. That said, a wine-tasting tour organised via La Foleia may prove less likely to end in potentially marriage-ending squabbles about who should be the designated driver and who the designated drinker.

The relais can also organise boat trips out onto the lake itself, including to the Borromean Islands of Isola Bella and Isola Madre with their opulent Renaissance-style palazzi and mix of Italianate and English country gardens. Guided trips to heritage sites including the flamboyant formal gardens at Villa Taranto in Verbania and Orta San Giulio’s romantic labyrinth of cobbled lanes and picture-perfect piazzas present further options for the insatiable sightseer.

Local restaurants

You’ve got your own private chef to whip up Pidemontese specialities at your whim. So why go anywhere else? Well, gourmands can reap rich rewards from the 15-minute drive to Borgomanero, where Trattoria dei Commercianti has been doing its thing for over a century. Set inside a 16th-century townhouse, this traditional family-run trattoria is (always a good sign) a firm favourite with locals. Grab a table beneath rustic beamed ceilings and get ready to feast on wild mushroom risotto, melt-in-the-mouth veal, regional cheese plates, tarte tatin and other Piedmontese favourites. There’s an extensive wine cellar with a focus on local Italian wines, including some of the finest from the Gattinara and Ghemme regions, and a pretty third-floor terrace for alfresco dining overlooking the town’s terracotta rooftops.

If it’s Borromean Island views you seek, look no further than La Rampolina, set high in the hills overlooking Lake Maggiore, just outside Stresa. Book a terrace table by the restaurant’s red-and-white-striped exterior and somewhat incongruous British telephone box, and brace yourself for an Italian feast. We’re talking bruschetti loaded with local anchovies, perfect pillows of gnocchi, cannelloni that oozes spinach and ricotta and a cabinet groaning with pungent regional cheeses. Don’t forget to leave room for the rich chocolate mousse and/or traditional tiramisu.

Local bars

You’re deep in wine country here, so it stands to reason you’ll want to sample an occasional drop of the good stuff. Frankly, it would be rude not to. Hit up the Fossati Wine Bar in pretty Arona for your fix. Here, overlooking Lake Maggiore and the imposing Borromeo Castle, knowledgeable staff will help you choose from a staggering selection of Italian wines, many of them from hyper-local vineyards. 

If you like your cocktails with a side of gimmickry, look no further than Arona’s Beauty Bar, where the serving receptacles (tiki mugs, teacups, lab equipment) are often as colourful as the drinks contained within. Or make for nearby Senza Pensieri, the Brixton Cocktail Bar or Via Sempione 72 for more traditional takes on cocktail mixology.