La Fiermontina

Mr Smith and I arrived at La Fiermontina in a rather zombie-like state after some overzealous booking on my side meant that we were up at 3.45am to catch our flight.

So it was rather nice to have our senses gently awakened by the floral scent that enveloped us as we walked through columns covered in cascading purple flowers that framed the entrance of the hotel.

La Fiermontina is a hidden-away idyll in Lecce: a 17th-century building that fuses tradition and modernity. 16 rooms, furnished with over-sized beds, pietra di trani floors and, if you’re lucky, an artwork from owner Filali’s personal collection which includes pieces by Le Corbusier, Charlotte Perriand and Tobia Scarpa. All that is framed by a beautiful walled garden and elegantly punctuated by 400-year-old olive trees and sculptures inherited from Filali’s grandmother, Antonia Fiermonte, after whom the hotel is named.

We were shown into our cavernous room, a junior suite, with church-like high ceilings and its own private terrace – the perfect place to relax after the sun had gone down.

The king-size bed immediately got a hug from me, its sheets so soft they were hard to tear myself away from in my sleepy state but Lecce needed exploring.

Lecce town is so steeped in history that it feels a bit like you’re on a Fellini film set; almost unreal in its beauty. We loved visiting Museo Faggiano: a private home that was meant to be turned into a trattoria until the owner made some rather unusual discoveries one day. After trying to fix a pipe, minimal excavations led to him unearthing various hidden rooms within his property including escape tunnels, the symbol of the knights of templar and various underground passages. These have now all been fully unearthed and opened to the public. We soon found out Lecce is a place full of such discoveries, from its cuisine to its cocktails (which we sampled in abundance).

Although nothing quite beat heading back to La Fiermontina, where the sun loungers waited and, even with other guests making the most of the afternoon sun, it always felt like we were the only ones there. We spent the afternoon cooling off in the pool, Aperol spritz in hand as the sun set behind the walls of our hideaway. The garden is so tranquil the only sounds you seem to hear are that of birds, a church bell and the occasional sound of a tennis ball being hit on the courts just beyond the grounds.

On our first night we decided to sample chef Simone Solido’s menu which includes both Salentini specialties and Mediterranean fusions with a focus on fresh and locally sourced produce. The restaurant – a refined dining room with an option to sit outside – has a relaxed feel, with spot-on friendly service and delicious food. Every dish we sampled felt like it had been prepared with the utmost care.

We sat alfresco amid the lemon trees and toasted the evening sun with a bottle of crisp local white wine, which got the seal of approval from Mr Smith, ever the wine connoisseur. The menu was small and concise – always a good sign. Before our starter, a chef’s special of tuna tartare was delivered to our table with a trio of breads, hot out of the oven, alongside some local olive oils. I ordered a fried prawn starter that arrived looking more like a work of art than a meal, the prawns large and juicy with crisp battered edges, followed by a pasta we shared and a salmon main – with just enough room left for dessert. Two and a half hours later, four courses and one bottle of wine down, I can say with absolute certainty that it was my favourite meal of our trip. After a short walk back to our room, I could finally give my bed the hug it deserved and swiftly fell asleep.

After a delicious breakfast sat outside in the morning sun, our second day was spent trundling down the cobbled streets of Lecce. I chanced upon a vintage boutique and left it the happy owner of a beautiful silk top. In another antique shop the owner proudly showed us his beautiful record player – we left the shop to the sounds of the Bee Gees on vinyl and smiles on our faces, finally stopping by a café recommend to us by the hotel for an iced almond-milk latte: a little pick-me-up before another afternoon sprawled by the pool.

When we first arrived at La Fiermontina we were told to ‘make ourselves at home’ – well, if my home had such attentive service, a beautiful garden and a sun-trap pool, I don’t think I would ever leave. Which was why, when we finally checked out, we waited until right the last minute to say goodbye to the little paradise we had called home for two perfect days…