Kvosin Hotel

‘Kvosin’ is the name given to downtown Reykjavik, so it’s no surprise that boutique hideaway Kvosin Hotel is smack bang in the middle of the city and close to many of the best bars, museums, restaurants, cafés and shops – a great location from which to kick off our trip.

The hotel itself is a piece of Reykjavik’s rich history, made up of two historic adjoining buildings, each with their own story to tell. Kvosin was previously a library, a fur shop and a soft-drinks factory. Its 24 individually-dressed boutique apartments (within which each room has a unique look) each have a name that pays tribute to Icelandic culture; be it nature, fairy tales or music, each room tells a story – a touch that enhances the feel of being at the epicentre of Reykjavik. Our apartment, for example, is called ‘Lòan’, after the Icelandic golden plover bird that heeds the coming of summer. Others include Pippa’s Wish and Sigur Rós.

Our apartment is spacious with a relaxed feel, and has a marble-topped kitchenette and parquet floors. Merging traditional Icelandic style with more modern Scandinavian design, it makes for a cosy, comfortable and inviting spot to weather out the oncoming blizzard. There are Icelandic Lín Design linens on the beds, photographs of life in the capital by Reykjavikian artist Gaui H, and locally made Sóley Organics toiletries (made using wild Arctic herbs, native birch and the like) in the bathroom. Basically, it’s bloody lovely. All the basics for cooking and preparing your own meals at the kitchenette are provided for, and a Nespresso coffee machine is right there for that much needed caffeine fix. We have a refrigerator but there’s no minibar or room service; however, you can get snacks and drinks at the front desk and you’re close to food shops for last-minute munchie dashes.

The unique design of the hotel gives us private nooks to get cosy in and a sociable space in the open-air deck, which would be the perfect place to sit outside in summer, to take in the Midnight Sun – maybe even a sneak peek at winter’s Northern Lights, too. Be warned though, those wooden floors and decking can resonate, so when the eager housekeeping starts or heavy-booted guests walk in or out of one of the rooms above it can be a little noisy. Thankfully, earplugs and slippers are provided, and the hotel requests keeping noise to a minimum after 10pm. It’s not a party hotel, but a pocket of rest.

Staff go above and beyond to make you feel at home. Even when we arrive on the day of a blizzard with 149mph winds, the staff ensure we are safe and comfortable throughout our stay and offer advice and suggestions for dinner, plus top tips for Golden Circle tours once the weather had calmed down; handily, the pick-up point is just a one-minute walk away by Iceland’s parliament headquarters (or Althing, as its known here).

One of the reasons the hotel also doesn’t have its own restaurant is to encourage guests to get out and explore everything Reykjavik has to offer. Just around the corner is Messinn, a delightful family-friendly seafood joint serving hearty dishes in a cosy setting. There’s also the fantastic brunching and lunching spot Bergsson Mathús, conveniently attached to the same building, it's popular for its healthy, Mediterranean-style dishes with specials each day and sourdough made in-house, and in the evening it becomes Tacos By Night, a lively taqueria. (Even our local friends rave about it when we mention the place.)

Then there’s the Klaustur Bar, inside the hotel right next to the lobby. It’s beautifully designed with wood and copper finishes and dangling Edison bulbs: an elegant retreat from the elements. It‘s also a well-known hangout for locals, so you’ll have the chance to rub shoulders with Icelanders. We opt for an Icelandic gin and tonic, but there’s a vast selection of international wines, whiskeys (more than 50) and gins (more than 60) to tap into, including Taiwanese and Belgian gins that can only be found in this bar outside of Taiwan and Belgium. It’s open every evening – until 3am on a Friday and Saturday for night-owls. Luckily, the generous breakfast spread has a good array of fruit, cereal, Icelandic Skyr yoghurt, eggs, cold cuts, freshly baked oatmeal cookies and sourdough bread. There’s also a stand with coffee, tea and cookies, all day, every day, just next to the lobby.

Kvosin falls comfortably into the category of hotels that allow you to pretend you live in another city for a few days. It reminds you of your own home, rather than trying too hard to be better than it. This kind of accommodation inspires the traveller: it’s comfortable yet not so indulgent that we never leave – so, a base for the countless activities and sights Iceland has to offer, it’s perfect.