KK Beach

Sitting in the comfortable lounge of KK Beach’s reception area, sipping from a king coconut with a straw and wiping my brow with a cool towel, I know I should be luxuriating in this check-in experience but I am not. I don’t want to sit. I want to unpeel the layers of this hotel, paw through the books on the shelves, pick over the menu and size up the waves thundering onto the shore beyond.

There is no-one around but the staff who are chatting at the hotel bar and I can sense this hotel is keeping secrets, that there is a world of possibilities about to unfold within the crisp white dining area, upstairs where the bedrooms overlook the Indian Ocean and out by the pool area, which smacks of Miami with its orange-burst umbrellas pitched against a blue sky.

Just before I can urge Mr Smith to hurry up with his brow wiping, an email pings. It’s a message from the owner, George Cooper, listing recommendations for experiences in and around KK Beach, as well as shops and local restaurants. There are a few no-no’s to help you out. ‘Steer clear of topless or nude bathing, it is illegal’ Cooper warns. ‘Don’t assume you’ve understood the Sri Lankan head-waggle. Best to confirm, or have repeated all-important instructions.’ His note details the restaurants’ themed food nights ranging from Western and Thai to Sri Lankan curry and seafood barbecue.

I begin to relax and simmer down, feeling somewhat in-the-know. I start to ‘ooh’ and ‘aahh’ at the activities offered: a boat trip on the Koggala Lake, a tour of the Handunugoda Tea Estate, a jaunt through Galle Fort… Mr Smith wont even contemplate a plan until we’ve checked out the room and settled ourselves on a lounger.

KK Beach, which sprang to life just over a year ago, is perched on the south-west coast of the island on the dusty road between surfer’s haven Mirissa and the fortified old city of Galle. It has 10 stylish rooms, all with balconies overlooking the lawn and the ocean – ours is on the first floor. A comfortable suite with television, comfy sofa and industrial strength air-conditioning leads to the airy bedroom with blue batik-style blinds, pretty heart-shaped hanging side lights and a large bed. There are fresh flowers in a vase and the walls showcase the works of Sri Lankan artists.  

A quick lather of sunscreen and we are by the pool where a tiggerishly enthusiastic attendant urges us to choose our spot and then lays out two fluffy towels on each lounger, before presenting each of us with a chilled glass of water. During our stay he keeps us abreast of the ocean's mood. At times she rages but today she is calm and he encourages us to have a swim. A little gate leads from the pool area, smack-bang onto the palm-fringed, white-sand beach. It is beautiful and deserted. Wading into the water is not the protracted tip-toeing affair that is the prelude to an Atlantic Ocean swim. The waves are gloriously warm and frothy.

Breakfast the following morning is simple and tasty – fruit plates with sliced pineapple, papaya and Sri Lanka's finest sweet bananas. The coconut pancakes are fluffy light and there's toast, served with pots of jam and marmalade, to nibble on. If you want to start your day like the locals, put in your order the night before and by 8am you'll be scooping fish or chicken curry from a bowl with a hopper and lacing it with fiery coconut sambol.

Given Mr Smith’s Masterchef-style aspirations, we select the cookery class from Cooper’s list of activities. A complimentary tuk-tuk bounces us along a rural road to KK’s more refined older sibling, Kahanda Kanda, where we will be instructed in the art of curry-making. The hotel's villas are set among jungle and tea plantations and as we make our way to the demonstration kitchen, monkeys leap through the trees overhead, pilfering jackfruit. A white aproned maestro greets us and before him is an impressive collection of leaves, spices, vegetables and meat as well as an array of clay pots. Within an hour he has demonstrated to our group that a sumptuous aubergine curry, chicken curry and dhal can be rustled up with ease. Can we replicate such a feast at home? The jury is still out.

We feast on the spoils of our labour and a vague plan to eat lunch afterwards is abandoned, so it’s back to KK Beach. On our return the staff are doing a military-style clean up of the downstairs area. The sofas, dining tables and chairs are all outside, gleaming in the sun. We navigate our way back to the sun loungers to finish our books and to enjoy the white wine we spotted on the menu earlier. We are uncovering the secrets of this hotel and finding our rhythm…