Kettner's

Worth getting out of bed for

To be the talk of the town, you have to be in an eligible position, and Kettner’s Townhouse has a first-class seat, burrowed into Soho. Lovers of drama will find it especially appealing for its easy access to the boards, big or small, of Theatreland: the grand dames of Shaftesbury Avenue; musicals, fringe pieces and ballet and music at the Royal Opera House in Covent Garden; and big-ticket shows along the Strand. And keep culture-loading with an amble down to Trafalgar Square to roam the National Gallery and National Portrait Gallery; a wayward tour of the galleries surrounding Regent’s Street (Sadie Coles, Maddox, Hauser & Wirth, Stephen Friedman, Halcyon and the Photographer’s Gallery). You might be surprised to stumble across Notre Dame de France beside the Prince Charles Cinema (a must for cult communal movie-watching), and while it’s quite a departure from its French brethren, there are some striking Jean Cocteau murals within. Due north, the British Museum is a trove of historic treasures, and lean into more niche interests at the Cartoon or London Transport museums (the latter’s gift shop has some surprisingly covetable goods). Plunder the luxury goods of Regent’s, Bond and New Bond streets’ designer shops, take a lingering look in Liberty, and dig for vintage finds along Neal Street, stopping into primary-hued Neal’s Yard for some Instagramming, cheese sampling, all-natural skincare buys and vegetarian snacks. Pick up something strummable in Denmark Street’s guitar shops, and learn a little about Soho’s sleazy and scintillating past. See where poet William Blake was born on Broadwick Street, swing by what was once the Colony Room Club on Dean Street (where Francis Bacon used to drink) and Au Chat Noir on Old Compton Street (where Quentin Crisp touted for business), and spy the ‘This is not a brothel, there are no prostitutes at this address’ sign on Sebastian Horsley’s former residence along Meard Street, but keep in mind it gets stolen from time to time, showing the neighbourhood hasn’t quite lost its spunk. And then finish your night in one of two ways, with serious jazz and blues at Ronnie Scott’s, or pop and glitter at G-A-Y. 

Local restaurants

How many restaurants are there in Soho? How long is a roll of receipts? The selection is dazzling, so we’ll start with what’s next door – Berenjak serves Persian cuisine in a beautiful space with gilded tiles, banquettes wrapped in rug-style patterns, and niches filled with greenery. Our recommendation, load up on fresh-from-the-tandoor flatbreads and dips with the likes of coal-cooked aubergine with walnuts mint and onion; or yoghurt with cucumber, mint and green raisins, then get stuck into a kebab, perhaps one with chilli and garlic poussin in a red-pepper paste, or one stuffed with mangal-grilled liver and sweetbreads. Kiln is also an advocate of smoked meats, but with more Thai influence, serving cull yaw and cumin skewers, clams in a soothing herb-y broth, various kinds of Laap sausage, and glass noodles with pork belly and crab meat cooked in a clay pot. And Ducksoup, just a few steps from the hotel, is a natural wine bar with a weekly changing European menu that might include squid-ink fettuccine with bottarga, lemon and chilli; duck with quince, pumpkin and pistachio; or rice pudding with persimmon jam. And Quo Vadis is another legendary heritage eatery (younger than Kettner’s, being founded in 1926), where eating is a joy from the start (bites of cod roe, polenta and sage) to main (roast pheasant with bacon, orange, fennel and almond), to finish (mincemeat, chocolate and marmalade tart). 

Local cafés

Just across the road from the hotel is Maison Bertaux, a pâtisserie and tea room that’s almost as old as Kettner’s (founded in 1871 by a Communard fleeing France). Pop in for an éclair, loaded fruit tart, marzipan fancies and freshly baked croissants. And get some pep in your step at the Soho Grind, a tiny, always packed place for very good reason: top-tier brews, and later in the day God-tier espresso martinis.

Local bars

Jubilant crowds, honking tuk-tuks, splashy lights: Soho’s late-night scene can be disorienting after some pre-gaming. Don’t let it wash you down to the O’Neill’s on Wardour Street – just down the road from the hotel is the French House, a longstanding institution frequented by bohemians and a buzzy spot to get started. Knock back some of the wines from the blackboard, then head over to Seven Dials, for some more top Gallic picks at Le Beaujolais – if at this point you decide you don’t need a tie, feel free to throw it over the rafters which the others punters have left behind. The Coach and Horses isn’t fancy and gets crowded on weekends, but its history as a journalistic haunt warrants a pint pit stop. Disrepute is very much up our alley with a curvaceous retro look (lots of mirrors, velvet and low coloured lighting). Its repute is actually quite safe, due to drinks such as L’Appuntamento, with peach liqueur, Aperol, orange blossom and prosecco; and a sophisticated crowd.