Hotel Kompas

Hotel Kompas is in a category of hotel I like to call VR headset – hard to understand from the outside, but once you’re in it, everything makes sense. Its quirky exterior we’ll put down to the Sixties shell, now remodelled with chic, Scandinavian-inspired design in a palette of creams and whites that not only creates a sense of serenity but also keeps the space light and bright. 

A beautiful glass wall framing a sweeping view of the glittering Adriatic makes a dramatic first impression in the lobby. More subtle, but just as welcome, is the beautiful scent, reminiscent of a spa, that wafts not just around the reception area, but extends throughout the hotel, too. 

Views aren’t constrained to the lobby either: the hotel’s architects have endeavoured to ensure that most of the rooms are sea-facing, meaning that vistas across the forested hills and teal Adriatic are shared out democratically across lower-category rooms as well as suites. 

Our room, for example, comes with a glass-edged, furnished balcony. I’m struck by the cream carpet, which feels so luxurious for a beachside stay. The bathroom also gets a big tick for its generous footprint. And I like the art in our room: scattered throughout the hotel are many pieces of modern art, from eye-catching paintings, to decorative, monochrome wall panels, to abstract lighting features – all of which enhance the hotel’s contemporary good-looks. 

We ditch our luggage and decide to scope out the pool. Set in the gardens, it’s shaded by towering pines and reminds me of the Italian Lakes. It’s the perfect spot for a peaceful morning swim, and Lapad Bay must take some of the credit for this… 

The hotel’s verdant setting echoes the greenery across the bay, where forested slopes tumble down towards the shingled shoreline, lapped by the Adriatic’s trademark emerald-clear waters. It’s not hard to see why city dwellers might head here for a weekend beach fix. For Hotel Kompas guests, the beach’s parasol-shaded sunloungers are free – a wonderful perk – as is the fact that our city break to Dubrovnik comes with such a scenic side of sand and sea. 

Dubrovnik – specifically its mediaeval-walled, terracotta-roofed Old Town – is a 15-minute cab ride away and the focus for most of our exploring. We put in a lot of steps wandering the fortifications, elegant squares and pedestrianised shopping avenues; we refuel on ice-cold drinks at pavement bar tables and linger over Mediterranean-style plates at stone-cooled tavernas. However, foot-sore and museumed-out, we were just as happy to return to our brilliant basecamp. 

For those wanting to indulge in some wellness and relaxation, Kompas has an impressive spa and fitness centre, provided at no extra cost. There is a freshwater indoor swimming pool with stone walls and loungers, which is always very quiet – good to know for when the outdoor pool area fills up. After a cool dip, you can take yourself off to the sauna and steam rooms. And if you’re after a few more endorphins, there’s always the state-of-the-art gym.  

Food and drink at Kompas is a highlight of our stay. Along the shoreline in Lapad there are many fantastic seafood restaurants, but if you’re not looking to venture too far, the hotel restaurant, Sphere, will not disappoint. We are whisked through a dining room of pale wood, dove-grey upholstery and white walls, and emerge onto a vast dining terrace (which also has low sofas and chairs for drinks) that steals the show – built around a beautifully old tree, and lit with lanterns (as well as the setting sun). Sphere’s a-la-carte menu is Mediterranean-skewed: we plump for glossy bowls of truffle pasta, and find them bursting with flavour. 

Sphere is also the setting for breakfast each morning, which is included with your stay. There’s a generous spread of sweet and savoury options, fruits and salads, something hearty and something light. So many different jams and accompaniments for your pancakes make it difficult to choose. And restaurant staff are professional and attentive. 

Day two takes us back once more to the city, but not before we’ve taken a morning walk on the beach and returned to rooftop Zenith Bar for a coffee pitstop. The bar runs along one side of the building, giving breathtaking views of the bay, and is a looker indoors as well, with pale interiors that are studded with planet-sized globe pendant lamps and Austin-Powers-style winged armchairs – very 1960s, very cool. 

Arguably, one of the most attractive factors when choosing Kompas is the location. Its out-of-town co-ords make it excellent value for money, and yet all of Dubrovnik’s antique attractions are reachable, plus you can supplement your city break with spells at the beach, esplanade strolls, or ascents to the ridge line to be rewarded with bird’s-eye views. As we decided on our last night – ensconced on the terrace at Zenith Bar, looking out across the twinkling lights of the bay, cocktail in hand – a short break at Hotel Kompas may well leave you wanting more…