Palace Natali

Worth getting out of bed for

To get your bearings (and for panoramic views over Dubrovnik), join one of Palace Natali’s guided walking tours around the Old Town. The hotel’s owners are yachting enthusiasts, which means that there are plenty of sailing trips on offer – including day trips to the islands of Šipan, Koločep, Cavtat, and Lokrum, passing the deserted isles of Mrkan and Bobara. The longest is a 10-hour excursion around the Mljet National Park, where you can swim in Odysseus’ Cave (legend has it that this is where the Greek hero was captivated by the nymph Calypso for *ahem* seven years), then bathe in the mineral-rich mud at Blace lagoon. Dalmatian picnic hampers are provided on board, so you can tuck into local wine and cheeses as you drift along. For wine tastings and vineyard tours, head to Ston – a mediaeval town on the Pelješac peninsula known for its Plavac mali grapes (and being home to Europe’s oldest salt factory). Save time to sample oysters at nearby Mali Ston Bay, where fishermen use the day’s catch to prepare a traditional buzara stew right on the dock. The pine forests and mill-dotted banks of the Ljuta river flowing through Konavle Valley are catnip to walkers – especially if you time your visit to the region’s pretty villages for a Sunday, when there are farmers’ markets, folk dancing and silk making. 

Local restaurants

The reasons behind its Mallorcan-mountain name tag may be lost to time, but you’ll be lost to the bay views from a table on the terrace at Restaurant Tramuntana, where grilled seafood comes just caught from the waters you’re overlooking. The waterfront setting at Restaurant More is equally lovely, and the zesty Mediterranean dishes draw from Dalmatia’s coast and countryside.

Local bars

Cave Bar is an all-day watering hole hidden away in – you guessed it – a natural sea cave. Highlights include the signature ‘caveman cocktail’ (a citrus- and star anise-infused take on a G&T), and the sparkling Sgroppino which is topped with a lemon ice-cream float.