Cape Weligama

‘Smell the sea, and feel the sky, let your soul and spirit fly’; so sang Van Morrison. I doubt the rock singer has been to Weligama – I mean he might have been, but that would be quite the coincidence. It’s just that standing here on the edge of the clifftop, on this southern Sri Lankan headland, kissed by the salty air, frothy waves crashing below… this whole scenario feels like a tonic true to Morrison’s lyrics. While the Indian Ocean setting refreshes the parts that many hotels can’t reach, other yearnings are seen to, too. There’s an exceptional array of food and drink, and spa treatments – it’s a full-service luxury resort fit for a rock star, which is an entirely new concept for Sri Lanka. (There’s even a steak house.) Tea lovers will especially adore it.

Cape Weligama is a generous creation from the family behind Dilmah tea, one of the world’s most popular brews. For those who appreciate home-grown businesses, this Resplendent Ceylon hotel is very much Sri Lankan, if not always in look, certainly in spirit – the 270-degree panoramas don’t let you miss an inch of those views. The villas are arranged in wattas (‘gardens’ in Sinhala), and they’re each named after old-Ceylon explorers. (I promise no more tenuous Irish rocker references – although, if you enjoy some random trivia, did you know Van Morrison’s first name is in fact George?) 

The architect behind Weligama is Lek Bunnag; he’s Thai, which comes through in details such as the pagoda-like roofs of the restaurant. Distinctly resort-y, sure, the huge trade-off at Cape Weligama is comfort. The suites are set in walauwas (mansions) – their names inspired by artists and writers who lived in Ceylon. Every perk has been considered, right down to private butlers – chaperoned to our walauwa by electric buggy, we meet our new loyal friend at the top of the lane to our home, which has an Indian Ocean backdrop beyond, and the bright turquoise, family-friendly Cove Pool just below. (There’s an absolute stunner of an adults-only, crescent-shaped infinity pool on the other side of the resort – Moon Pool is the stuff of Instagrammer’s and honeymooners’ dreams.) It’s all about splashing around in the pools here – the beaches aren’t so much about sunbathing.

Warning: you may indulge yourself. There used to be an all-inclusive arrangement when it came to the eating at this Sri Lankan luxury hotel, which frankly would have had me rolling home if we’d stayed any longer. Who could resist ‘string hoppers’ (steamed rice noodles) for breakfast, with all those little bowls of rich, delicious, zingy curries? And then curry again for lunch? Not me. There are international classics too – but those creamy chili and coconut concoctions are hard to beat. It’s especially fun when it’s a pola (market) night, when staff set up stations spilling over with photogenic produce and just-caught fish laid on ice, for you to choose and then have cooked just how you like it. 

Our eight-year-old daughter made it clear she’s a bigger fan of seeing tropical fish in their natural habitat, and so the highlight of our holiday for her was the Sports Centre, a five-minute walk out of the resort along a dirt road (hello, cow; hello, local kids playing football). The sweet professional diver gave her a try of all the diving equipment in the pool, and though she was never brave enough to give it a go in the sea, it was a bucket-list experience. 

As well as being happy to organise all sorts of water shenanigans for guests, the front desk is poised to inspire guests to explore on land too. Half an hour away is Sri Lanka’s most popular destination, Fort Galle. This Unesco-protected 17th-century fortress is filled to the gills with precious gems, chic batiks and aromatic spices to browse and buy. Be sure to visit Stick No Bills, a gallery in a Dutch colonial townhouse which makes postcard-sending a must. Meg, a former risk analyst, and her husband Phillip set up the print studio which creates these quality postcards and vintage-look lithographs. Their framed limited-edition Ceylon scenes and Bollywood-movie references now add personality to cafés, restaurants and hotels throughout Sri Lanka. We enjoyed writing our cards in a cute colonial café and then popping into the World-Heritage-listed post office on Church Street to mail them. 

Travel articles are always about what you should do and what you should take. So I thought I’d buck the trend and give you a checklist of what to leave at home. Most of the clothes you’re planning to pack. (There is an incredibly efficient free laundry service.) Watersports kit. Books about Sri Lanka. (If you don’t find the one you want in your room, the splendid tea-and-cocktail lounge, Taylor Pavilion has a magnificent selection of photography books and literature about this fascinating land.) Backgammon board. And you definitely don’t need to bring your favourite English Breakfast blend. They think of everything. After indulgent lunches, refreshing flannels appear, and in the evening, say the word, and natural insect repellent is at your disposal. Whether you bring any classic rock albums to sing along to is up to you.