Amanyangyun

Mr Smith and I didn't feel our best when we landed in Shanghai. We'd been away for almost three weeks — from Greece to Singapore, Singapore to Malaysia, Malaysia to Seoul — so we found ourselves frazzled as we arrived in China for the first time. A chaotic taxi journey in a car that didn’t really fit all our cases (blame the shopping in Korea) followed. But when we glimpsed the walls of Amanyangyun, we felt a rush of excitement at what was to come. 

Shanghai's Aman outpost is immediately breathtaking. Perched between the airport and the city centre, it boasts almost 350 pristine acres, with giant camphor trees, forest-embraced lakes and tranquil glades. The drive down a verdant courtyard contrasts with the gleaming white façade of the main building; immediately the word ‘sanctuary’ comes to mind. Visually striking but soft too, a nod to the Aman style I have for so long loved from afar; sleek, understated, intriguing and inviting. 

We felt the tiredness melt away, swapped for excitement at uncovering the many layers of Amanyangyun. We were content in the knowledge that a sense of relaxation and calm wasn’t going to be far behind. After welcome refreshments, we were whisked away to our suite, which, at 1,065 square feet, was larger than most London flats. The afternoon sun was peering in from one of the two shaded courtyards through carved shutters. The main space is covered in a warm teak — a nod to Finn Juhl and Danish modern design — with flashes of green from the courtyards. I felt that pang I always feel on short stints in hotels, wishing I could stay here longer.

We immediately ran to rent two bikes, knowing it wouldn’t be long before the spa and room service in bed beckoned. The grounds are breathtaking, and every corner brings a new surprise. From a bamboo-lined track, which was so vibrantly green with the afternoon sun behind it, to a picture-perfect lake, with one of the afternoon-tea boats meandering down it onto a canal. We raced each other round bend after bend — the estate felt endless. And then suddenly, we were exhausted, legs like jelly, readier than ever for a sauna and a long soak in a bath. We felt so incredibly content, in possibly the most tranquil place I’ve ever experienced. It’s absolutely perfect for a retreat, without needing to be named one — Amanyangyun is a total escape. 

Back in the room after a quick sauna trip, I ran a bath and Mr Smith ordered two martinis and some chips. We got into the incredibly comfortable bed and sat there, beaming at one another. We napped for an hour, before slowly getting ready, gliding to dinner. The restaurant was quiet, the staff excellent and attentive, so warm and friendly. We glided right back to our rooms, that feeling of calm and tranquility still gently pulsing through us. Following a big meal, we wanted dessert, but not immediately, and the staff offered to bring it to our room shortly with some herbal tea. A blissful end to a blissful day. 

Amanyangyun is so brilliantly designed, using natural materials and perfectly symmetrical layouts; moving through the space has an ease that is unlike anywhere else I’ve spent time. I often feel exasperated by how poorly designed most places are; the feeling that this could all be a little easier, particularity living in a city, surrounded by people. Although there isn’t likely to ever be crowds at an Aman hotel, since they are always spacious and deliberately don’t have a huge amount of bedrooms to ensure privacy — that ease of movement is still massively noticeable and hugely satisfying. When the hotelier Adrian Zecha unveiled the first Aman hotel in 1988, it stunned travellers everywhere. Elements of Aman hotels had never been done before; making a bathroom the same size as the room, for example. This immediately ensures ease of movement; something all clever architecture aims for. 

After a deep sleep, our alarms went off for our flight home. Breakfast arrived seamlessly before our taxi at 7.30am; a bowl of persimmons and Chinese plums, a perfect omelette and a pot of strong coffee. It was a bittersweet goodbye; we wanted to gorge ourselves on more of Amanyangyun. We missed so much of its wonderful-sounding offering: Chinese afternoon tea on the lake, hammam treatments, personalised excursions and a few more nights engulfed in that cloud of a bed. But it's safe to say, we caught the Aman bug, and we’re very excited to visit another location.