Albero Capovolto

We’d heard our fair share of tales about the glitzy Costa Smeralda. It’s not famous in the same way that the Amalfi Coast or Capri are famous, but we were aware of the Berlusconi types with their superyachts and the high-heeled women teetering around designer boutiques. Not exactly the kind of relaxing, authentic Sardinian scene we seek. Yet as Mr Smith and I soon discover, Sardinia can be rustic and charming in a more simple way, and feel very far from a millionaire’s seaside playground. In fact, what we found was a hidden gem that we’re almost reluctant to share…

We fly into Olbia and, after a few hiccups with car hire, are on our way in a rather fitting cream Fiat 500. Miraculously, Google Maps seamlessly navigates the island’s winding roads and we arrive at Albero Capovolto a mere 20 minutes later, without so much as one cross word between the navigator (me) and driver (Mr Smith). You’ll need a car to get around, not least for the climb into the rolling countryside where this charming B&B is based.

We feel ourselves unwind the second we arrive. A series of stone buildings set among olive trees and bougainvillea-wreathed pergolas, this alluring retreat is just the kind of remote getaway we’d been craving. The enthusiastic owner, Alessandro, greets us personally and can’t wait to show us around his peaceful oasis, which he treated to an eclectic renovation after spending childhood summers here. The style is rustic chic with quirky antique additions dotted around. Alessandro’s background in fashion shines through in the form of lamps made from fabric spools, artfully mismatched chairs and vintage floral tablecloths.

With the sun shining and a serious tanning mission to take care of, we saunter straight over to the pool area to join the other couples in their lounging. Luckily there are enough sun loungers to avoid a towel war and as this is very much aimed at couples and honeymooners, the white beds are all in neat pairs with Hollywood-style headshades. The view from the infinity pool – surrounded by open countryside with the odd terracotta roof dotted in for good measure – will take some beating. Add to that the heady scent of jasmine wafting over and it all feels very idyllic indeed.

The service here isn’t showy but you’re very well taken care of. Forever managing my expectations, Mr Smith had reminded me before our stay that Albero Capovolto is a B&B rather than a hotel, but with the pool and the option of dinner several nights a week, it feels like so much more.

With just five rooms, it feels intimate (you become aware of your neighbouring couples’ showering routines through the wall) but not too intimate. Our room is neutral-toned and sports wicker and wood accents. The look on my husband’s face when he realizes that the slightly odd digital photo in the room is not a TV but in fact an air con unit is priceless. That said, it soon became apparent that this place isn’t about TV – or phone signal at all.

We sleep under stripped tree-trunk beams and set no alarms, awaking to the sunlight pouring through the shutters. Despite the huge pizzas we ate last night (when in Rome!), we feel ravenous. This feast is fit for Sardinian Kings, complete with an array of insanely delicious homemade cakes, bright yellow eggs and local meats and cheeses – with a dreamy view to match.

Just across from our room is an outdoor lounge area with a hanging chair swaying in the breeze. The slightly sketchy WiFi encourages us to indulge in books instead, occasionally looking up to views of the mountains, wild flowers and olive groves.

We spend our afternoons exploring the emerald coastline (there’s an overwhelming number of beaches in the area). The clear, sparkling water, rugged boulders and lapping waves make us question whether we’re in the Seychelles or Sardinia. Really, it’s that spectacular! Our favourite stretches of sand are Cala Sassari and Spiaggia del Principe, a truly romantic little cove and a firm favourite of the prince who put this stretch of coastline on the map. Don’t bother visiting Porto Cervo; instead, try Porto Rotondo for a fantasy boat shopping mission or pretty San Pantaleo, which has a lot more charm.

Throughout our stay we eat stupendously well, and even go in search of Alessandro’s favourite gelato spot in Golfo Aranci. We have one rule we stick to when in search of gelato: the place in question must have Mr Smith’s favourite lemon and licorice combination. We like to think we’re gelato connoisseurs, and this spot doesn’t disappoint. We watch the locals turn up for their daily fix – oh to live in Italy.

After a glorious long weekend, the daily grind awaits us back home tomorrow. But today, a few more beaches are waiting to be discovered. We’re feeling smug about booking that late flight home – even if it is on easyJet.