In Rome, almost every neighbourhood has a brag-worthy landmark, but with the Colosseum casually hanging out at the end of many of its streets, Monti wins first prize. One of the oldest parts of Rome, its most famous denizen is Julius Caesar himself, born when it was still shabby and a hive of criminal activity, then called Suburra (meaning ‘under the city’).
As the name suggests, Monti is built on the steep gradients of a handful of Rome’s seven hills (Celio, Esquilino and Viminale specifically). One scenic, valley-shaped street is Via Panisperna, with the dome of the Basilica Papale di Santa Maria Maggiore at one end making it even more photogenic. The backdrop is also helped along by the neighbourhood’s many shuttered buildings in sorbet shades of lemon, peach and orange. Another Monti main drag is Via Cavour, where you’ll find the metro stop.
Despite its famous Roman relic, it has an authentically local feel. Sit for a moment on Piazza della Madonna dei Monti, opposite its namesake church, and you’ll get a taste for Monti life, centred around that all-important activity of gelato-sourcing. In the afternoon, Don Nino has an eager queue of schoolgirls, while on Piazza degli Zingari, Fatamorgana will also likely have ice-cream pilgrims leisurely enjoying their scoops outside.
The newly buzzy neighbourhood, just north of the Forum and south-east of Via Nazionale, is a classic tale of regeneration, but it’s still popular with students, so hasn’t been sanitised out of all its charms. The district remains more residential than touristy, home to some rather lucky Romans. Here’s where to eat, drink and sleep in Monti…
The best breakfasts in Monti
Try the famous Roman bread at Zia Rosetta, which serves its namesake flower-shaped rolls alongside smoothies and strong coffees; or get caffeinated at La Licata on Via dei Serpenti, now also a bar but its origin story began as a bakery in 1967. If you’re staying at Nerva Boutique Hotel, its generous breakfasts, served in a bright white room with arched windows overlooking the street, are worth getting out of bed for — if you want to snooze a little longer, join for brunch or lunch (served from 11am to 2.30pm daily) instead. Casa Monti also makes an art form out of weekend brunch, with a lavish spread of coffee, cocktails, lobster rolls and avocado toast laid on every Sunday.
The best art in Monti
Sacripante is an art gallery on Via Panisperna, set in what was a convent in the 18th century. Once you’ve admired the modern artworks adorning the grey stone walls, slip off in search of the not-so-secret bar. Embrace the NFT at Postmasters Roma, south of the Parco del Colle Oppio and packed with thought-provoking digital works and more; or double down on fine art at the grand Palazzo delle Esposizioni on Via Nazionale, a cultural hub with three floors of exhibitions, a bookshop, café, cinema, auditorium and more.
The best shopping in Monti
Vintage-seeking magpies will love a good browse in Monti, which is home to lots of consignment stores. We love Humana (whose thrifty finds start at just €5) on Via Leonina and Via Cavour; and Moll Flanders on Via Urbana, where you might unearth barely worn threads by Maison Margiela or Rick Owens. LOL Roma promises fashion, art and design, and possibly some audible laughs of joy. And if you want to pick up some new jewellery, there are lots of boutiques specialising in sparkly trinkets on Via Urbana, including Levigato, Ruby Loves Rome, Paolina Roma and Argentia Jewels. Via del Boschetto, home to ateliers and yet more boutiques, is also worth a wander.
Where to drink in Monti
Monti is famous for its buzzy wine bars, which get busy at aperitivo o’clock. We’re fans of classic La Barrique on Via del Boschetto and dream pre-dinner spot Al Vino Al Vino on Via dei Serpenti. Coffee and cocktails are served at bookworm-friendly Libreria Caffè Bohémien on Via degli Zingari.
Nocturnal types can stay up all night at The Jerry Thomas Project, which dispenses drinks until 4.30am (3.30am on sensible Sundays), provided they know the password (just sign up for the newsletter and all will be revealed). Earlier late nights can be had at Blackmarket Hall.
Where to eat in Monti
For casual pizzas with endless combinations of toppings, don’t miss Trieste on Via Urbana, which has been turning out delicious discs of dough since 1958. At the other end of the scale, Michelin-starred Aroma at Hotel Palazzo Manfredi will be your most memorable Monti meal, since the tables out on the terrace are arranged directly in front of the Colosseum — the food almost lives up to the view. Via Urbana is home to a burger joint (T & C Burger Lab) and Urbana 47 for typical Lazio dishes. Or locate Trattoria Monti on Via di San Vito to try the family’s Le Marche cuisine, if you can get a booking.
The best things to do in Monti
The star of the show is of course the Colosseum and that great den of antiquity, the Forum. But Monti is also a laidback, bohemian neighbourhood that’s perfect for simply strolling, snapping photos and stopping for a glass of wine or a gelato. Also high on your agenda should be shopping, as evidenced by the sheer number of browse-worthy boutiques in Monti.
Where to stay in Monti
Casa Monti hotel blends in with its scenic surroundings with the help of a mustard-yellow vintage Fiat 500 outside; indoors, it’s just as easy (if a little hectic) on the eye, with maximalist design courtesy of local creatives. The Fifteen Keys — a cosy townhouse with a courtyard and just 15 rooms — is in the middle of all the action, on Via Urbana.
If you’re here for the gladiators, you can’t get much closer to the Colosseum than Hotel Palazzo Manfredi, where the vista from the rooftop terrace is nothing short of mind-blowing. Up here, you’d be happy with a plate of pesto pasta, but the food is just as good as the views, with a Michelin star to prove it.
Closer to the Forum, sister stay Palm Suite is your own private Roman pad on loan, with two-bedroom suites for families, and rooms with picture windows framing the antiquities on display outside. Also nearby is Nerva Boutique Hotel, located right beside the Forum of Augustus and its Temple of Mars Ultor, inaugurated in 2 BC — you can spy on it from the comfort of the two-storey Master Suite.
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