Shaped a bit like a lemon wedge and ringed by glass-clear shallows, luminous Sifnos — a quick ferry ride from Serifos and Milos — might just be the most buzzed-about Greek isle in the Cyclades right now. What’s so special about it, alongside its pottery-crafting heritage, sandy beaches, storybook villages, hiking trails and column inches lauding its culinary credentials, the island remains unpretentious and unfussed about its newfound popularity. A splashy, see-and-be-seen destination, this is not.
Many of Sifnos’s tiny sugar-cube villages appear suspended in time, its tucked-away coves are untouched and often wild (with nary a designer-branded beach club in sight), and cars are notoriously hard to come by in July and August (cut to hitching a ride to your chosen swimming spot with the ever-obliging locals). It may be petite, but there’s a lot to cover over a summer break, so read on for our island guide to Sifnos and its many charms.
What to do in Sifnos
Whitewashed villages punctuate Sifnos’s scrubby, sun-baked expanses, and Apollonia — its pretty capital, with stone-paved alleys, souvenir shops and a curious little folklore museum — makes a great starting point. You’ll want to get to know neighbouring Artemonas, too, and perched-on-high Kastro. Many stony tracks criss-cross the landscape; the route leading from this ancient hilltop village to the imposing Panagia Poulati church, with its belltower and magnificent cove just below, is among the most impressive. Expect breezes scented with wild thyme and Aegean vistas that make ‘just one more photo’ an impossibility.
Sifnos is one of Greece’s most important pottery centres and has been synonymous with the craft for millennia, thanks to the dense red clay lining its valleys; so, whether or not you’re the artsy type, it’d be a shame not to have a go at throwing a vessel of your own. Book one of the hands-on workshops at Keramika Atsonios — a sunshine-filled studio in Vathi run by the same family for 150 years. And a significant chunk of your itinerary ought to be spent seeking out the most pristine stretches of coast to loll on or puttering about in a boat for a day or two. Take time to zip across to Polyaigos — an uninhabited microdot with sea caves and chameleonic waters — as well as larger, better-known Kimolos.
The best beaches in Sifnos
From arcs of powdery sand to rocky ledges lapped by crystal waters, when it comes to beaches, Sifnos delivers. Not far from the Chrisopigi Monastery in the island’s southeast is Faros, a sleepy fishing village with a trifecta of bays to bounce between. Follow the path to the right-hand side, through the clutch of Cubist houses to Glyfo — it’s dinky, but what this sandy cove lacks in size it balances out with beauty, and its sheltered position means it’s a good one to aim for when the meltemi winds pick up. With loungers to rent, a handful of old-school tavernas and plenty of shade thanks to the scattered tamarisk shrubs, there’s a lot to like about horseshoe-shaped Vathi, though you have to be there bright and early if you intend to set up camp at the water’s edge.
Lesser-known Cheronissos, up on the northernmost point, is catnip for serenity seekers, with no crowds and glistening shallows. For deep, jewel-coloured water and flat rocks just right for stretching a towel out on, take the steps from Panagia Poulati to the bay below — a word of warning, though: it’s a fair way down, and the scramble back up to the church can be a killer in the summer heat. Those up for a real challenge can brave the steep descent down through the crags to reach pebbly Gialoudia on the west coast. It’s sublime, but if you’re not sure you’re up to the hike, head over there by boat instead.
Best restaurants and tavernas in Sifnos
For a Cycladic isle that largely remains blissfully unhurried, Sifnos doesn’t mess about on the dining front, and there’s an increasing number of brilliant restaurants turning out creative takes on traditional recipes. That’s not to say caught-in-time tavernas are in short supply though. Tsikali is one such spot, set right on the sand on Vathi Beach, in the island’s southwest. Score one of the tables clustered beneath the tamarisk trees and settle in for a lunch of cod spritzed with lemon, revithada (slow-cooked chickpea stew) and velvety local cheeses. A few doors down on the same shore, Manolis is another must-visit, unaffected taverna that’s worth the journey; it’s been going since 1973 and many of the ingredients still come from the family’s smallholding. In fishing village Faros, Lamarina spotlights the slow-cooking methods the island is known for; order the yemista (fist-sized tomatoes stuffed with fragrant, herby rice).
In Kastro, Captain George is memorable as much for its wave-lashed setting as its food (think grilled octopus and buttery, shrimp-studded spaghetti); and just across the way, sprawled across the rock-hewn terraces above pebbly Seralia bay, you’ll find sought-after haunt Cantina. The hyper-local sharing menu changes every day: dry-aged amberjack with cucumber melon and Skinos vinegar might precede a rabbit terrine with fiery mustard and greens. To finish? Perhaps xynomyzithra-cheese ice cream with lavender crumble and thyme honey. A couple of miles inland at lantern-hung Bostani, try chef Nick Thomas’s goat with horn peppers, labneh and vegetables straight from the kitchen garden. Meanwhile, the lemon pie and sweet, crispy loukoumades are great at Kitrino Podilato in nearby Artemonas, and since this bougainvillea-strung bakery is open late, it’s ideal for a post-dinner bite.
Best bars in Sifnos
Cliff-clinging Loggia is little more than a row of spindly, Aegean-facing tables and a makeshift bar set up on Kastro’s whitewashed rocks; but it’s the most irresistible after-dark haunt in the Cyclades. If you feel like sipping biodynamic wine in the moonlight while downtempo sounds are spun on vinyl, look no further. Next door but with a different feel entirely, Kavos Sunrise is always packed to the rafters. Sinewy, bandana-clad owner Kostas has a soft spot for anything and everything Cuban; you can’t miss the mountain of Havana Club bottles piled up beside the bar, nor the many newspaper clippings from the Revolution years. Prepare to spend a while queuing for a drink (you’ll be lucky to get your hands on anything that’s not rum-based), then find a perch on one of the low stone walls just outside, and you’ll soon be a fan, too.
The lively rooftop at Botzi 93 is the place to be in Apollonia. It has a well-curated cocktail list to work your way through, but you can’t go wrong with a fizz-topped Botzi Collins. For a caffeine fix, try Kafenio Lakis, just around the corner. Iced coffee is something of a religion in Greece, and this pleasingly old-school spot next to the taxi rank serves the best freddo espresso.
Shopping in Sifnos
In Apollonia, Julie Tzanni crafts and sells sculptural stoneware vases with finishes that mimic the lichen clinging to the island’s rocks, while Keramika Kostas Depastas — in Cheronissos, up on the northern tip — is a go-to for simple glazed terracotta plates, jugs and the like. For edible souvenirs, head to Artemonas and call in at Theodorou, an old-fashioned confectionery shop selling handmade sweets. The soft, almond-butter biscuits are a must, and the miniature halvadopita (delicate nougat-filled wafers) are so delicious they likely won’t make it to the flight home.
Best hotels in Sifnos
Stamna Sifnos
Verina Astra hotel cosies up to a cliff edge on the island’s east coast. Interiors are spartan but not stark, with whisper-soft textiles and dusky blue paintwork lending interest to an otherwise neutral palette; and paths of swaying grasses frame a jade-tiled saltwater pool that appears to merge with the Aegean. Come sunset, the stone-paved terrace makes an unbeatable perch for picking at huge Greek olives and sinking frosty glasses of white.
Further south, the light-filled suites at Nós Hotel & Villas are peppered with statement ceramics thrown by local makers; many open out onto hushed courtyards and some have their own plunge pools shaded by stone walls. Most impressive though is the hotel’s supercharged RIB that can be commandeered for days on the water, with the option to have the resident chef join you so he can rustle up a seafood barbecue on your chosen slice of beach.
Meanwhile, Stamna Sifnos’s crisp, clean-lined rooms are dotted across the arid hillside on the fringes of Apollonia. Keen yogis can practise their asanas at immersive early-morning sessions, and being a few minutes’ walk from the village’s atmospheric centre, you’re ideally placed to dip in and out of the action as you please.
What to know before you go to Sifnos
How do you get to Sifnos?
Fly into Athens and transfer to the port of Rafina where the ferries depart for Sifnos — it’s a two-and-a-half-hour crossing, and you’ll want to book a ticket ahead of time. There are direct ferries from Mykonos and Santorini, too, if you’d rather fly into either of those.
How many days do you need in Sifnos?
Carve out at least three or four nights for your stay; or better still, a whole week.
When is the best time to visit Sifnos?
Though September’s cooler temperatures and still-warm water makes it arguably the ideal month to visit, Sifnos is heaven on earth any time from May to mid-October.
What’s Sifnos best known for?
Sheltered swimming coves and a culinary scene that punches above its weight.
How do you travel around Sifnos?
Sifnos isn’t a huge island, but you’ll want some wheels for exploring, especially as some of the loveliest coves are in the more remote reaches. Booking a car or scooter can be a challenge in the summer months, but the locals (and regulars) are well aware and, providing they’ve got room, many won’t blink at the idea of you hitching a ride to the beach.
See our full collection of hotels in Sifnos or plan your odyssey with our ultimate Greek island guide