Teardrop-shaped Sri Lanka may be small but its landscape is mightily varied, from its surfer-adored southern shores and the tea plantations of its Central Highlands to the leopard-stalked expanses of its wildernesses. Its compact size means the island nation can be easily explored in a fortnight or so — you just need to plot out the perfect itinerary.
So read on to take in Sri Lanka’s very best hotels, whether you’re looking for an Ayurvedic wellness retreat surrounded by emerald rice fields, a colonial-era tea estate in the Hill Country, or a beachfront villa just steps from the Indian Ocean-lapped shores…
FOR HONEYMOONS
Amanwella, Tangalle
Whether you’re aiming for the deserts of Utah or the high-rises of Tokyo, you can’t go wrong with an Aman hotel for your honeymoon. There are two outposts in Sri Lanka, forming the perfect twin-centre stay for a taster of the island nation. There’s one in Galle and another along the coast in Tangalle.
Amanwella is a surfer’s paradise, close to both Unakuruwa for the advanced and Nilwella for the newbies. Even if you’re not planning to hang ten on your honeymoon, it’s the perfect romantic retreat for newlyweds, with huge villas to hide out in, relaxing post-nuptial spa treatments and a nearby lotus-covered lagoon for sunset cruises.
Best room for romance The word ‘room’ doesn’t really cut it here. These are vast, soaring-ceilinged villas, hidden in the midst of tropical foliage along the shoreline, with outdoor spaces at the front and back. The most secluded and closest to the beach are the Ocean Pool Suite and Ocean Hill Pool Suite categories.
Design details Glossy wood is the main accent in the villas, with sliding doors separating the huge square-footage, freestanding bath tubs and terraces for siestas (unavoidable in this heat).
Something to eat You can master the art of the Sri Lankan curry with a cooking class, or have someone do the hard work for you. The main restaurant is on a terrace overlooking the bay, and there’s also a beach club on-site — but for peak romance, book a private-dining experience for a candlelit seafood supper on the sand and watch the stars start to shine.
See the sights Safaris are on the cards here, provided you can tolerate a pre-dawn alarm. Yala and Udawalawe National Parks are a similar distance away from Amanwella, with a drive time of less than two hours. Your early start will be rewarded with a leopard sighting at Yala — if you’re lucky — and elephants aplenty at Udawalawe. For a romantic, post-hike sunset, scale the 210 metres up to the Mulgirigala rock temple — though we must warn you, your special, golden-hour moment will be interrupted by eager monkeys.
A FAMILY-FRIENDLY RESORT
Cape Weligama, Weligama
Hidden on a lush headland, with its red roofs peeking out, Cape Weligama is the smartest place to stay in southern Sri Lanka’s creative hub. You can admire the coastline from the peaceful veranda of your villa, or stay put in a foliage-framed Pool Pavilion room. There’s a thatched beach bar and crescent-shaped communal pool for idle days while the kids are kept busy in the forest-themed crèche.
From here, it’s a short drive to Lake Koggala, home to lots of bird species and eight islands, one of which has a Buddhist temple.
Best room for families A spacious Two Bedroom Junior Suite can accommodate up to five people, so are ideal for clans; or go for a 307-square-metre Cape Residence, spread over two floors, with room for four guests.
Design details The rooms are classic in design, with traditional furniture, rich wood accents and statement walls in turquoise, burnt orange or royal blue.
Something to eat Settle onto the Society terrace for sundowners with a view of the water, before relocating to the Atlas for a candlelit dinner of yellowfin carpaccio, snapper ceviche and lobster dumplings. For a special occasion, head to Tableau restaurant’s chef’s table.
See the sights The island’s southern coast is on your doorstep, with lots of renowned breaks for budding young surfers to master — take it easy (relatively speaking) on Weligama Bay first, before attempting Rams Right and Lazy Left in Midigama, and Fisherman’s in Ahangama. Family-friendly activities include banana-boat trips, snorkelling and kayaking on Lake Koggala, along with wildlife spotting — whales, dolphins and turtles if you’re lucky. If your kids are a little older (and don’t mind a two-hour drive), more creatures — including elephants, leopards, sloth bears and boars — can be glimpsed in Yala or Udawalawe National Parks.
FOR A BEACH IN REACH
Ahu Bay, Ahungalla
The coastal town of Ahungalla, in the south-west of Sri Lanka, is a little away from the action, in Galle District. But the local turtles have long been clued-up about its charms, coming ashore to nest (hatchings can happen year round, but for the best odds, time your visit between February and July). For whale-watching, the months of note are December to April.
Ahu Bay is on the shore, surrounded by coconut palms, with suites and residences that have their own pool, just steps from the sand, and an Indian Ocean-facing communal infinity pool as the heart of the resort.
Best steps-from-the-sand room Book a Bay View Pool Suite and you won’t even care about the beach, since you’ll have your own plunge pool, tropical garden, deck and courtyard to enjoy first.
Design details Ahu Bay has a relaxed, beach-house aesthetic, with wooden ceilings; high-gloss, hexagonal-tiled bathrooms; squashy white sunloungers and rattan lampshades.
Something to eat The ocean-facing restaurant is the perfect spot for marvelling at the colours of sunset as you enjoy classic Sri Lankan curries (Indian ones, too) — try the lagoon-crab options with dhal and pennywort salad; or the lobster kottu with spicy gravy and a tomato-and-onion sambal.
See the sights There’s lots to keep you active here, from guided bicycle rides of the Dedduwa Backwaters, tours of the estuaries and mangroves of Balapitiya, and treks through the Beraliya jungle. You’ll also be able to set off on deep-sea fishing trips, and paddle-board along the Bentota River.
FOR FIVE-STAR LUXURY
Amangalla, Galle
The coastal city of Galle is a must-add to your Sri Lanka itinerary, not least for its Unesco-listed fort, which has relics of Portuguese, Dutch and British rule. And luckily for luxury lovers, there’s an Aman there to rest your head. The building that houses Amangalla is more than 400 years old — it was built in 1684 as the headquarters for a Dutch commander and his officers. It then became the New Oriental Hotel in 1866, with a library room dedicated to showcasing its centuries of history. This includes framed photographs of its eccentric former Dutch owner Nesta Brohier, who was its final custodian before Aman took it over in 2004.
Best room to blow the budget There are newer rooms in the gardens, but for the most regal quarters, opt for a room in the main house, namely the 80-square-metre Amangalla Suite, which has a four-poster bed, a freestanding bath tub and a living room with a desk should the urge to put pen to paper overwhelm you.
Design details This is old-fashioned grandeur at its best: ceiling fans, polished teak floors, dramatic high ceilings, antique furniture and a whole lot of mahogany.
Something to eat If the British are good at one thing, it’s afternoon tea, and Amangalla keeps the tradition alive and well, serving up freshly baked scones come mid-afternoon. You can take tea on the veranda, wilting like a period-drama heroine under a ceiling fan or in your room.
See the sights The fortified old city has lots of architecture to admire and a sea wall to stroll along: sights of note along the way include the post office on Pedlar Street, dating back to 1820, the Old Dutch Hospital and a mosque. You can ride a tuk-tuk out into the urban sprawl the city has expanded into, beyond its original colonial parameters. An especially romantic dining experience will be dinner at the Aman rice paddy, which commences with a rousing performance by fire-breathers in traditional dress.
STAY AT A TEA ESTATE
Ceylon Tea Trails, Hill Country
Sri Lanka is probably most famous for the tea estates of its emerald-green Hill Country, so you’d be wise to add a stop here into your itinerary. And one of the finest places to stay in these parts is Ceylon Tea Trails in the Bogawantalawa Valley, where the planters’ bungalows have been reimagined as suites ready to welcome modern-day tea enthusiasts.
The setting is spectacular, with lakes, mountains and tea-covered slopes separating the five bungalows that house the hotel rooms. Trail maps are supplied for guests hoping to trek between them — naturally, tea can be served along the way.
Best room for taking tea The rooms are set in five colonial-era bungalows, arranged around Castlereagh Lake. Norwood, which was rebuilt in 1940, is closest to the Norwood Tea Factory, with valley views to make you go ‘aaaah’ as much as your cuppa does. Or book Castlereagh, constructed in 1925, for refined teatime in its lakeside gardens.
Design details As befits its heritage, it’s all rather grand, with panelled libraries, claw-foot bath tubs, bay windows and timbered ceilings all forming part of the decor.
Something to eat The hotel is all-inclusive, so you can indulge with abandon — guests are assigned a butler and each of the bungalows has its own dining space, along with various terraces. Naturally, afternoon tea is a regular occurrence, served daily at whatever time you please. The chefs will outline their meal plans to you each morning to ensure they’re personalised to your tastes. Needless to say, teas are used freely in the cooking, as are organic herbs grown in the gardens.
See the sights Unsurprisingly, tea is first and foremost on the agenda here in the rainforests and grasslands of the island’s Unesco-protected Central Highlands, with tastings available at the hotel and plantation visits in the environs. Hike in the Horton Plains National Park or Peak Wilderness Sanctuary, or up to the Galboda Waterfall.
FOR A PRIVATE POOL
Malabar Hill, Weligama
A short drive inland in Weligama, Malabar Hill is a 14-room hilltop hotel with secluded stilted villas overlooking either the coast or the nearby wetlands. There’s a saltwater infinity pool with cabanas encouraging communal swims, but each villa has its own plunge pool on its deck, suspended over the foliage. After a refreshing dip, you can head up to the roof terrace or settle on your patio with a cooling mango lassi (or another drink suited to 30-degree heat). Also on hand for an ice-cold G&T is the main terrace, which overlooks the endless expanse of greenery on Malabar Hill’s doorstep, much of which is rice paddies and cinnamon fields.
Best pool-enhanced room Each villa has a saltwater plunge pool. The key point of difference is the view — for the most captivating of the coast, go for room 109 or 113.
Design details The rooms feel modern, thanks to their stilted design and private plunge pools, but there are lots of historic nods, too, including antique Rajasthani furniture, palatial architectural details and service with an old-fashioned charm.
Something to eat The views steal the show at the estate’s Hill House restaurant, but dishes such as prawn curry, grilled seafood platters and lamprais (a Dutch-influenced Sri Lankan dish of various components, packaged in a banana leaf) do their best to compete. To really make the most of your private pool, a floating breakfast is essential.
See the sights Twitchers will be pleased to discover a pair of binoculars and field guide in their room, ready to assist studious sorts with their wildlife sightings. Within the confines of the estate, you can go for a picnic, hike the jungle trails or attend a conservation tour. Day trips to Galle are possible (the fort city is a 40-minute drive west), as are trips to nearby tea and cinnamon plantations.
FOR A BOUTIQUE FEEL
Kurulu Bay, Ahangama
On the shores of Lake Koggala in Ahangama, Kurulu Bay is a small-scale stay with treehouses and cottages spread throughout its palm-shaded grounds. Alas, the lake is not swimmable, but you’ll probably prefer to be hanging out with the monkeys at the main pool anyway.
Yoga classes are held often, at both indoor and outdoor shalas (the latter with lake views that will have you looking up from your downward dog); and there are retreats held regularly, too, some as long as 28 days. The spa combines both Ayurvedic principles with Western ideas, for the best of both.
Most stylish room For seclusion on stilts, book one of the Treehouses overlooking the lake. Or be closer to the pool and restaurant in a Garden Suite.
Design details There’s no sign of colonial influences and antiques here. Instead, the calming, contemporary rooms are white-and-wood temples to neutrality, with an almost Scandinavian flavour.
Something to eat The Kitchen serves up locally caught seafood and produce from the surrounding area, all put to good use in dishes such as roasted cauliflower with miso and curry oil, and seared yellowfin tuna with balsamic teriyaki and preserved lemon.
See the sights Tour the lake by boat, pausing for some birdwatching or a stop at a cinnamon plantation on one of its islands. If you’re in Sri Lanka for the surf, Ahangama is the right place to do it — novices can point their boards in the direction of Kabalana Beach, but those with more superior skills can take on The Rock. This is also the part of Sri Lanka where you can glimpse the famous stilt fishermen.
IN THE JUNGLE
Uga Chena Huts, Yala National Park
If you’re indifferent about tea, make your trip all about the wildlife instead. Yala National Park in the south-east is the perfect place to start, since you’ll be in with a chance of spying leopards in the canopies or lying across a boulder, elephants on the beach, flamingos at the lagoon and — if you’re really lucky — baby turtles hatching. The park is home to one of the biggest leopard populations on Earth, but if they’re feeling shy, you’ll also be in with a chance of glimpsing sloth bears, jackals and toque macaques.
The ultimate place to stay within the confines of the reserve is Uga Chena Huts, where the thatched namesake lodgings are set at the edge of the water, amid grassy plains and dense jungle. Each has a private plunge pool, freestanding bath tub and — all-importantly for the tropical temperatures of Sri Lanka — climate control.
Best room for The Jungle Book fans Each hut has been created equal, but Pavilion 1 and 2 have slightly better views of the landscape and are closer to the restaurant.
Design details Walls made of logs, curving ceilings with low-hanging thatched roofs, a deck with a plunge pool, and electricity — this is wilderness we can live with.
Something to eat Uga Chena Huts is an all-inclusive Sri Lanka stay, with a bar on the sand dunes and an open-air restaurant overlooking the Indian Ocean. Alongside typical curries and coconut sambals, modern dishes also grace the menu, and breakfasts are a particular treat (pineapple and cinnamon muffins, French toast with caramelised apples…).
See the sights Once you’ve explored Yala National Park (morning and evening game drives are offered to guests daily), there’s another landscape of note an hour’s drive away: Bundala National Park, home to 197 species of birds, including more flamingos, who winter here between September and March. Also an hour’s drive away is Kataragama, a pilgrimage town home to an ancient Hindu shrine.
FOR A SPA HOTEL
Santani Wellness, Kandy
At Santani Wellness in Kandy, the rooms are called ambalamas, which means ‘pilgrim’s lodge’ in Sinhalese — and they’re certainly worthy of a journey, especially if it’s one of self-reflection. You won’t fail to find yourself with views this uplifting, and they’re available in every direction, whether through the wall of windows in the lounge, behind the double-height, floor-to-ceiling glass in the restaurant or on show from the balcony or sliding doors in your suite.
Also assisting with the harmony are Ayurvedic spa treatments, yoga sessions, herbal teas and healthy juices, a cedar-wood sauna with a glass wall framing the valley and a thermal salt pool. WiFi is available but you won’t need much encouragement to fully unplug. Wellness programmes can be tailored to you, or you can stay as a more casual, daily-yoga-and-hike kinda guest.
Best room for spa seekers Those seeking inner peace will prefer the Mountain View Chalets at the edge of the valley, which overlook the jungle and surrounding peaks.
Design details It’s all about the views at Santani — everything has been set up to make sure of it, from the teakwood chairs on your balcony, to the minimalist decor everywhere else.
Something to eat Guests will have a customised meal plan designed for them by the chefs, the head of wellness and the resident Ayurvedic doctor. It’s of course healthy, but that doesn’t mean things like duck confit and masala-chai crème brûlée won’t feature. The ingredients are all locally sourced and dishes have a Sri Lankan flavour, from curries with organic vegetables and chutney, to banana-blossom salads with coconut and tamarind.
See the sights Meditation, yoga and self-improvement will be the agenda most days, along with hikes around the estate’s 48 acres of jungle and rice paddies. And if you do want to venture further afield, take a trip into the ancient city of Kandy, home to the golden-roofed Sri Dalada Maligawa temple.
FOR AN ALL-INCLUSIVE STAY
Goatfell, Hill Country
The curiously named Goatfell is on a working tea plantation, surrounded by the mist-shrouded mountains of the Hill Country, the part of Sri Lanka dubbed ‘Little England’ for its cool climate, enthusiasm for tea and colonial relics. The Concordia Estate tea factory is on your doorstep, so you can call in for a cup of builder’s or a tour as you explore your scenic surrounds.
This small-scale stay is in the lofty village of Kandapola, at one of the highest elevations in Sri Lanka. As for that name — it’s a nod to Goat Fell Mountain in Scotland (the highest peak on the Isle of Arran), in homage to the Scottish planters that commercialised tea farming Sri Lanka.
Room with a view There are just four rooms in the bungalow. For peak Anglophilia, book Ragala for its views of the genteel garden and estate.
Design details The tea-plantation bungalow was converted into a boutique hotel in 2018, but it hung on to its antique furniture, ceiling fans, and cosy library and fireplace (we did say this was a mini England).
Something to eat Guests are assigned a butler who will take care of their dining whims, whether it’s afternoon tea, breakfast, lunch or dinner. There are sure to be lots of curries, with some Western options and, of course, hoppers for breakfast.
See the sights The capital of Sri Lanka’s Hill Country, Nuwara Eliya — a hill station established in the mid-19th century — is worth a wander to see its colonial buildings, including the red-brick, Tudor-style post office (est. 1894). Walkers will also be able to work off the excesses of all-inclusive board with a day trek in Horton Plains. Or you can take the sedentary route and see the sights by train — first stop, the route from Nanu Oya to Ella.
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