Lisbon’s geography can be confusing, with its cobbled alleyways opening out into expansive, polished praças, neighbourhoods so elevated you need to ascend in antique lifts to reach them, and its contrast of sandy coast and green-flocked hills. So we’ve taken the guesswork out of where to stay for a weekend break, romantic getaway or family holiday in Portugal, with our pick of the best hotels in Lisbon for all travel tribes.
FOR A HOTEL WITH A POOL
Verride Palácio Santa Catarina
The pool at Verride Palácio Santa Catarina might not be the largest — big enough for a couple to lap each other — but it’s made a mightier prospect by its heavy-hitter views. Set on the hotel’s roof terrace, it allows you to gaze out at the rabble of red-tiled roofs across the Old Town or across to the glittering waters of the Tagus River.
Towel off and take vinho verdes in the adjacent rooftop bar, which also offers an eyeful of the city. Built in the 18th century as the home of a count, the hotel is grand indeed, with stuccos, swooping staircases and marble floors; but it gets the little treats right too, with thoughtful turndown touches, Aesop products in bathrooms and copies of the hotel’s own magazine, filled with local tips.
The make-a-splash room The Royal Suite deserves its honorific. The building was partly damaged by an earthquake in 1755 and has since been sensitively restored, but here’s where you’ll find all the original features at once. Walls lined with blue-and-white azulejo tiles, a rash of Rococo stuccos, silk wallpapers, vast mirrors and portraiture ennoble the space, and you could almost paddle in its huge bath tub.
Design details There’s an interplay of past and present here: suites wear full regalia, while other rooms have a humble yet still stylish look, with modern furnishings. Same goes for the public spaces: some have chandeliers and vases large enough to climb into, others are calmly low-key.
Something to eat Hotel chef Fábio Alves hails from north-east Portugal and brings regional flavours (with some culinary influence from his Ukrainian wife) to Michelin-recognised restaurant Suba. Dishes such as milk-fed goat with sausage rice or lobster with feijoada and lime caviar are plated playfully and executed with a magnificence matched by the 360-degree views.
See the sights If you haven’t had your fill of sights at the hotel, the Santa Caterina miradouro (or viewpoint) is a few steps away. Not just a remarkable aspect for taking in the surroundings, such as the 25 de Abril Bridge, and the Cristo Rei statue, it’s also a popular mingling spot. See more of the city while riding on an iconic yellow tram or the Elevador da Bica. Enjoy a picky lunch at the Time Out Market, then — once fuelled up — you’re ready to tackle the bustling (and steep) central neighbourhoods of Baixa and Chiado.
FOR FIVE-STAR LUXURY
Brown’s Avenue Hotel
First, clock Brown’s Avenue Hotel’s very chi-chi location: steps from the Avenida de Liberdade, a wide, elegant street stretched between two grand praças, built for nobility and now home to big-name designer boutiques and some of the city’s most expensive real estate. So, you’ll feel like a VIP just finding it on your phone’s map.
You get the city’s past and present here, with rooms set in both an 18th-century wing and one more modern. Plus, ancient Roman ruins are set in the foundations — an in-house museum showcases artefacts unearthed. Whichever era you settle on, you’re primed for living your best life, whether that’s long Mediterranean meals in the plant-bedecked restaurant, lazy afternoons in the library, raiding the honesty bar, or splashing about in the cacti-flanked rooftop pool.
The blow-the-budget room Considering the level of luxury offered here, room rates are surprisingly reasonable, so go ahead and level-up. The Contemporary Junior and Master Suites in the modern wing each have a bath tub in the bedroom.
Design details Like the hotel’s funky slatted façade, there’s a bold modern slant to the interiors, with sleek parquet floors and wood-panelling, and a mish-mash of textures, from fake fur to primary-hued velvets to marble detailing.
Something to eat Dining skews Mediterranean, but with a heavy accent on traditional Portuguese dishes. Go for surf or turf: the tuna pica-pau (small pieces fried and served with a spicy, beer-based gravy); bacalhau à brás (salt cod with eggs, onions and potatoes); and steak in all iterations are all solid orders.
See the sights There are frequent jazz and soul nights at the hotel, but with its super-central location, you’ll want to walk your own beat too. Dress in the manner to which you’re now accustomed, spreeing from Loewe to Louis Vuitton, pausing at the Avenida’s kiosks for shots of ginjinha berry liqueur or a creamy horchata. And plot a cultural crusade through the National Society of Fine Arts, the Museum of Portuguese Cinema and decorative-arts space the Medeiros & Almeida Museum, capping off the day at the Tivoli Theatre.
FOR FOOD LOVERS
Sublime Lisboa
This boutique address only has 15 rooms, making it a more intimate prospect for sybaritic pleasures. Sublime Lisboa’s not-colour-shy design isn’t for retiring types (even if you will slumber very well here), and the top-notch staff, who’ll greet you by name, can organise treasure hunts and painting classes on-site; after, sip your way around the world with the bar’s globally inspired cocktails.
Guests get discounted access to the spa and sporting facilities at nearby Club 7, on the cusp on Parque Eduardo VII; clued-in concierges have a long list of local and day trips to hand; and dining indulgences go far beyond the excellent Davvero restaurant’s menu: there’s afternoon tea every day from 5pm to 6.45pm, romantic private meals on a tucked-away terrace, and Italian wine tastings with cheese and charcuterie boards.
The feast-for-the-eyes room Delightfully bold swings in pattern and colour have been taken in all rooms, and each is unique. The Sublime Suites live up to their name with a private terrace or balcony with city views; but the Lisboa Suites, with their large living areas (some with a bath tub by the bed, too), and even entry-level Pateos Rooms, with their petite indoor courtyard, carry a lot of charm.
Design details Andringa Studio injected new life into the 20th-century townhouse using geometric wallpapers and a palette of navy, coral, sage and scarlet, tied harmoniously together through feng-shui principles. There’s a characterful art collection: Miguel Vallinas Prieto’s portraits of well-dressed animals, Pol Kurucz’s Glam Jail series, and Alma Mollemans’ playful collages of dictators behind desks.
Something to eat The Cipriani name is synonymous with high-end Italian cuisine at exclusive hangouts, iconic bars and dolce-vita hotels. Sublime’s chef Isaac Kumi cut his teeth in these rarefied spaces, and brings his expertise to Davvero, lacing the menu with primo pasta primi, heaps of truffle and a top-tier tiramisu, plus some concessions to local tastes.
See the sights Parque Eduardo VII is home to an observation deck with far-reaching views — events are often held at its Carlos Lopes Pavillion and the botanical gardens offer tropical serenity. West of the hotel is the Amoreiras shopping centre with 200-plus boutiques, but you may prefer to max out your card in the local restaurants. You’re steps from Michelin-awarded eateries: Cura (in the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz), which has tasting menus with flavours that journey through Portugal; and Kabuki Lisboa, a showcase of Japanese culinary artistry.
FOR COUPLES
Montecarmo 12
Romance lies in the details at Montecarmo 12, a bijou stay in the much-buzzed-about Príncipe Real neighbourhood. It’s in the way the historic building has been lovingly refreshed by Aires Mateus atelier, whose near-bridal vision of floaty bed veils and ample white is stylishly seductive. It’s in the waft of custom scents, made using lavender, rosemary and lemongrass handpicked locally. And it’s in the care chef Dede puts into his delicious plant-based breakfasts (which can be served in bed).
It helps, too, that the hotel is adults-only, fostering the do-not-disturb feel further, for afternoon teas à deux in the garden or a few late-night wines in the lounge.
The most romantic room The 10 rooms have a chic spartan feel, with lashings of white and little ornamentation, but feel quietly luxurious. Go for a Premium and you could have either a spacious terrace for watching the local goings-on, or calming views of the Tagus River.
Design details The Aires Mateus atelier is renowned in Portugal for its mastery of minimalism, and the work it’s done in Montecarmo may not loudly proclaim itself, but speaks volumes of its design talent through the use of Lioz limestone and traditional tiling, a gracious curved staircase and considered geometry. And the history of the building echoes through its ornate original façade.
Something to eat The vegetarian and vegan eats are wholesome and healthy, but not too healthy — think two-hander croissants, pancake stacks and slabs of cake, or avo toast piled with feta and pink onions for breakfast.
See the sights The hotel is minimalist, but there’s maximalist greenery nearby in both the Jardim do Príncipe Real and Jardim Botânico de Lisboa. Stay au naturel with visits to sustainable boutique Stró and Benamôr for Earth-kind beauty products. Or up your shopping game at Embaixada, an Arabian palace hosting homegrown-brand boutiques. There’s no mistaking Peruvian-Portuguese restaurant A Cevicheria’s speciality — it’s presided over by an octopus sculpture; and the Pavilhão Chinês bar (89 Rua Dom Pedro V) has walls spackled with curios.
FOR FABULOUS VIEWS
Memmo Alfama
Head up to Memmo Alfama hotel’s roof terrace and your attention will first be grabbed by its unique, ruby-red pool, and then by the view: a sweeping cityscape of terracotta tiles and white heritage buildings, panning across to the glittering waters of the Tagus. It’s like a more intimate take on the city’s miradouros. Even better, a top-floor tapas joint and cocktail bar lets you gaze lovingly out while sipping something cachaça-laced and tucking into croquetes and churros.
The pool choice might be hot-blooded, but the rest of the design in this 19th-century building is coolly mid-century modern. Memmo Sessions events ensure lively company, with DJs, Fado gigs, barbecues and more.
Room with a postcard panorama Book a Terrace Room to get your fill of the could-frame-this view. They overlook the picturesque cascade of the Alfama neighbourhood, down and out over the Tagus. An outdoor seating area lets you linger.
Design details Cream, latte and mocha hues ensure smooth styling here, and an emphasis on natural materials (wood, leather, linen) makes it feel all the more welcoming. There are flashes of the 19th-century building’s past in exposed-brick walls, but we’re not sure what the original occupants would make of the cherry-on-top pool.
Something to eat Stack up the small plates in the hotel’s tapas restaurant: sesame-encrusted goat’s cheese drizzled in honey, burrata and pear soused in port, garlic-sautéed shrimp. Casual mains include burgers and baguettes; and desserts range from healthy tropical fruit to more decadent chocolate mousse and cookies.
See the sights Alfama is Lisbon’s Old Town, home to ancient monuments, such as the 12th-century cathedral (also known as Sé) and 11th-century São Jorge Castle. There are many miradouros to climb and the Museum of Fado introduces you to Portugal’s intrinsic, melancholic music. From here you can hop on famed Tram 28 to experience its vertiginous route, rummage through collectibles and antiques in the Feira da Ladra (on Tuesdays and Saturdays), and discover the creative cheffing at Michelin-starred Sem.
FOR FAMILIES
Flora Chiado Apartments
Flora Chiado’s name is inspired by Biagio Flora, the former owner of the Pombaline building its apartments are set in, who made his name running the Bazar Novo Mundo toy store — which feels fitting for a stay that feels so welcoming to families. Success has been handed down through generations: current owner Ricardo, Biagio’s great grandson, was the architect behind the building’s renovation, who hauled in huge wooden crosses, antique tiles and tasteful modern furnishings to create dwellings that offer a sense of place.
Aside from being stylish, these crashpads give you privacy, space (baby cots and extra beds can be added to most) and your own kitchen for flexible dining. The lively, shop- and theatre-lined Chiado district has all-day distractions for all ages and when the kids are tucked up, your apartment’s lounge makes the cosiest gathering space.
The most child-friendly room Those with younger children may prefer a space set over one level, such as Apartment T1. For larger families with older children, the T2 Duplex sleeps up to five. Some have terraces too.
Design details Vintage azulejo tiles around fireplaces and beds, original frescoes and shutters, and criss-cross beams add plenty of character to these crashpads (watch little heads don’t bump into the latter). In contrast, Brazilian furniture designer Jader Almeida’s statement pieces add some modern polish, as do copper Tom Dixon lamps and black-and-white photographs of the city by Rui Palha.
Something to eat Book with Smith and as your special extra, you’ll arrive to find cheese and wine (we got you, parents) and a grocery kit for your first meal in-house. Continental breakfast goodies, including fresh pastries, are delivered daily, too. But if cooking feels like a chore, hip casual eatery To B: To Burger or Not To Burger is just down the road, suits-everyone street-eats are a short walk away at the Time Out Market, and Fauna & Flora’s healthy plates might be colourful enough to entice kids. And with two Michelin star-toting eateries next door (Alma and Belcanto), you’ll want to book a babysitter.
See the sights At one end of Rua Anchieta, there’s Livraria Bertrand (Lisbon’s oldest bookshop, dating back to 1732), whose fairy-tale interiors and generous kids’ section will pique their interest. And at the other there’s the National Museum of Modern Art, which often holds special workshops, story-time sessions and games for little ones. The mind-bending Museum of Illusions is one street over, and for city-wide views, the Santa Justa Lift is just a five-minute walk away.
FOR SEEING THE SIGHTS
The Lisboans
The former factory building that houses The Lisboan’s 15 apartments sits neatly between Old Town Alfama, the neoclassical Baixa district and the Moorish Quarter, where a multicultural community fosters a diverse dining scene, putting you in orbit of all the city’s tick-off sights.
But the hotel has its own micro-community too, with a revolving cast of creative guests and owners who’ll happily listen to your life story as they deliver tote bags filled with breakfast goodies — they only buy local, too. So it won’t take you long to feel at home, especially when you’ll have your own kitchen, and the apartments are so tastefully dressed with vintage furnishings, folk art and handpainted tiles.
The room for out-and-about-ers Get a bird’s-eye view of the city in the Penthouse Apartment, from which you can plot out your Lisbon itinerary.
Design details The owners have a keen eye for thrifted and vintage finds, and for a chic backsplash — the modern take on Portuguese tiling here adds a pop of colour. And they called on local artisans for pieces that true Lisboetas might well have pride of place in their own homes.
Something to eat If you’re planning on using your apartment’s kitchen, stock up on local delicacies at the Prado Mercearia wine bar, deli and bistro next door, and traditional tins of seafood at 1930s boutique Conserveira de Lisboa. Or hop over to the hotel’s sister restaurant Prado, which makes local produce sparkle, especially when paired with its bio wines.
See the sights It’s tempting to cosy up and maybe even add a few days (or weeks) to your stay here. But, there’s a cultural cache on your doorstep. The Museu do Teatro Romano takes you back to Lisbon’s Roman past (which is closer than you think — the hotel sits on Roman ruins). The spike-studded Casa Dos Bicos makes a good photo op, as does the pavement mosaic celebrating Fado singer Amália Rodrigues. Galeria Zé dos Bois is an artistic locus; and expect atmospheric finger-clicking in laconically named jazz bar So What?
FOR SPA-SEEKERS
The Lumiares
A bright spot in Bairro Alto: The Lumiares has marble flooring polished to a shine, dramatic staircases and peacocking light fixtures, golden accents and a roof terrace with an attention-grabbing view. Dazzle it certainly does, but its apartment-style rooms (all kitted out with a Smeg kitchen) have a humbler luxury to them, with an array of furnishings, textiles and artworks by local artisans.
It’s spa, too, isn’t showy — it’s on the petite side — but fits in four treatment rooms, his and hers saunas and steam rooms, and even a boutique where you can buy the dreamy La Sultane de Saba products, so you can smell like your holiday back home. Treatments are by turns holistic, customised and just plain indulgent, with optional beauty add-ons or personal-trainer sessions.
Most pampering room Even the Studio feels spoiling, with its smart-casual dressing and high-end appliances, but take it to the top — that’d be the Penthouse — and you’ll have a choice of furnished terraces from which to admire the neighbourhood in peace.
Design details In your apartment’s bathroom, you’ll find beautifully packaged products from Claus Porto, a homegrown, heritage luxury brand — which sums up the design ethos throughout, with locality being key. Hanging textiles with geometric patterns and Lisbon’s signature blue and yellow hues are just some of the touches that make the residences feel immersive.
Something to eat Head to the fifth floor for local-leaning eats — Iberian pork with mint labneh, oxtail croquetes with broad-bean pesto — with city views; or briefly sojourn to Italy at M’arrecreo, a pizza joint given the thumbs up by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana.
See the sights Pampering perks include a monthly spa offer — book in on a Wednesday to follow up with cocktails and DJ-set mingling at the weekly Sunset Social. The Bairro Alto neighbourhood is best known for its nightlife, but by day you can explore São Roque Church, one of the world’s most costly to build, thanks to its extravagant gilding, and wander the botanical gardens. Come aperitivo time, head to Park bar’s terrace, which is guaranteed to be buzzy, followed by medicinal-in-a-sense cocktails at The Old Pharmacy.
FOR A COSY BOUTIQUE HIDEAWAY
Pátio do Tijolo
Bijou Pátio do Tijolo hotel has found inner peace — miraculously so, being placed amid Bairro Alto’s busyness — and generously shares it with guests. Rooms are decorated in meditative hues, hundreds of trees and plants give you a biophilic boost throughout and come-and-go-as-you-please lounges make you feel utterly at home.
Slow down and read a book in the jacaranda- and lemon-scented courtyards, map out the city’s rhythms from your room and enjoy some breathing space before turning up the volume in the bairro’s thronged bars.
The just-right room Choose a Patio Room for sun-soaked seclusion, or a Balcony Room for spying on the bairro below.
Design details The hotel’s hidden-passageway entrance might suggest from the off that it’s a keep-to-yourself sort of space, but within, patios, balconies and inviting communal spaces make it feel all the more sociable — and films are sometimes screened alfresco. Lisbon’s cultural scene sneaks in, too, by way of local artists whose work hangs in the rooms.
Something to eat Pasteis de nata for breakfast? Yes please. This is the main meal served at the hotel, so they make the most of it, dishing up bolo pastries with jam, eggs any way, seasonal fruit, platters of Portuguese cheeses and breads, strong coffee and Algarvian orange juice. For snacking, a cheeseboard is refreshed in the kitchen each day and sandwiches can be made on request.
See the sights Príncipe Real is due north of the hotel, so head up to admire its grand old architecture, and the newer, divisive Franjinhas building. Seek out real finds in 21 PR concept store and quirky yet honestly named Amazingstore; and head to Solar to pick up some traditional tiles. Then dine finely at BouBou’s, led by French Top Chef winner Louise Bourrat, or more casually at its offshoot sandwich bar.
FOR NIGHTLIFE
The Vintage Hotel & Spa
Mixing up a gin and tonic on your in-room bar trolley, long late-night calls on Bakelite telephones, joining fellow guests to boogie to bossa nova on the rooftop: The Vintage Hotel throws back in the most delightful of ways, drawing in a very now crowd. It’s a vivacious spot, with bold colours throughout, sandwiched between two bars with a penchant for partying: V Rooftop is the sundowner spot, while the ground-floor Hangout is for weekday gatherings to live music.
It’s a soft place to land after a night out too, with beautifully designed rooms and a spa with its own water lounge to alleviate any sore heads the morning after — a possibility with Príncipe Real’s bars not far away..
The room for revellers The Castle Suite is a mid-century dream, with space for after-hours dancing and panoramic views of the city and castle. And the double rainhead shower in the bathroom makes a vital revival tool for morning afters.
Design details Enhancing the hotel’s colourful look are works by João Rei, Margarida Fleming and Omey Projects, making the Mad Men styling feel a little more present. And Portuguese crafting is further represented by Cecile Mestelan, who created ceramics for the hotel.
Something to eat The Blue Bistrot has seating in various shades of its titular hue, plus a wavy banquette, and nods to the coast are entirely intentional — its seafood dishes are sublime, from codfish à brás to prawn and lime risotto. But it does well by land too — the black-pork sandwich on beer bread is a must-try.
See the sights Hop from the hotel rooftop to Seen Sky Bar down the road, then switch to speakeasies Sneaky Sip and Red Frog. Príncipe Real has the city’s best gay bars, too — dress in drag-queen-besting gear for Trumps, an icon of the scene.
Now see the best of the rest with our full collection of hotels in Lisbon