Tucked away in Lisbon’s historic heart, apartment-style stay The Lumiares lets you take on the city on your own terms – but its rooftop restaurant and bar and stellar service give you all the perks of a luxury hotel. The wealth of options seems only right for a building that began life as a palace, and opulence is still visible in the renovated 18th-century stone staircase, Art Deco light fittings and geometric-patterned floors. But for all its glamour, this hotel is still very much rooted in the area, showcasing furniture, textiles and even hand-wrapped soap made by local artisans, whose ateliers – some of which are streets away – rub shoulders with family-run restaurants, buzzing cafés and worldly wine bars.
Get this when you book through us:
A bottle of white wine in your room on arrival, 15 per cent off spa treatments (of €75 or more) and free breakfast every day
Noon, but flexible, subject to availability. Earliest check-in, 3pm.
Double rooms from $186.93 (€169), excluding tax at 6 per cent. Please note the hotel charges an additional local city tax of €2.00 per person per night on check-out.
Rates don’t usually include breakfast (€18 for adults, €9 for kids), a buffet with fresh bread, Belem tarts, croissants and pancakes; seasonal fruit; cheese and meats; eggs.
The art in the rooms includes work by celebrated street artist Maser, whose rise to prominence has taken his work from Dublin backstreets to fine art galleries.
At the hotel
Spa; gym; free WiFi throughout; laundry. In rooms: kitchenette with a Smeg mini fridge, induction hob, microwave and toaster; TV; Nespresso coffee machine; Beats Pill+ wireless sound system; tea-making kit; free bottled water; Claus Porto bath products.
Our favourite rooms
Ask for a room on the upper floors, which have killer views across the terracotta rooftops. The penthouse apartments take the biscuit in this respect, but you’ll still have plenty to see if you throw open the windows in the lower-tier rooms. If you can’t get one near the top, any disappointment will be banished by booking one of the split-level Loft Style apartments on the ground floor, which have roomy bedrooms overlooking the living area.
The small but stylish spa has separate saunas and steam rooms for Mr Smith and Mrs Smith, and four treatment rooms manned by some of the city’s most dextrous therapists. All the products are by La Sultane de Saba, and can be bought at the spa boutique. There’s also a 24-hour gym; personal trainers are available on request.
Lisbon is a city of hills with steep cobbled streets, so you’ll need some comfy shoes if you want to avoid the Compeed.
All of the common areas are wheelchair accessible, as are some of the two-bedroom apartments.
All ages are welcome at the hotel, and the Two Bedroom Apartments have plenty of room for families. Babysitting is available for €20 an hour (a day’s notice is required, and the minimum booking is three hours).
In Lumi, it’s got to be a table on the terrace. If the weather isn’t playing ball, then ask for one by the open kitchen.
Lumni is a bit more of a dress-to-impress sort, but keep it casual at breakfast.
Lumi Rooftop Bar & Restaurant is helmed by Portuguese chef João Silva. Occupying a rooftop space with some of the best views in the Bairro Alto, Lumi serves elegant Portuguese dishes with an international lean; the signature dish is ox heart tartare, but the sea bass with orange and fennel has won many a heart too. Breakfast is also served in Lumni – there’s a station for fruits, cheeses and charcuterie, a heavily-laden pastry table where you can find freshly baked breads and your morning pastel de nata fix, and a handful of cooked-to-order options.
The rooftop bar really is the jewel in the hotel’s crown. Glass walls ensure you’ve got a clear line of sight over the rooftops, towards the castle and out to sea; after dusk, the facades of the surrounding churches and townhouses emerge from the darkness in floodlit glory. Bring in the evening with one of the hotel’s signature cocktails, El Gringo, a medley of Maker’s Mark bourbon, port, Benedictine liqueur and bitters.
In Lumi, breakfast is served from 7.30am to 10.30 am. The Portuguese like to lunch late, so the restaurant doesn’t reopen until 4pm, but from then on you can dine anytime until 11pm.
The hotel is tucked down the narrow streets of the Barrio Alto (old town), which straddles one of Lisbon’s seven hills.
Lisbon Airport is a major hub, and can be reached direct from many of the larger European cities and select US airports. It takes 20 minutes to drive from the airport to the hotel. The Smith24 team can arrange your flights and transfers; call anytime, day or night.
If you’re coming from further afield than Spain, it’ll be much faster to fly. But if you’re up for the journey, you can get from London to Lisbon by train in around 24 hours. You’ll need to catch an early morning Eurostar service from St Pancras to Paris’ Gare du Nord, change to Montparnasse station, then catch a south-bound TGV service to Irun, the first stop over the Spanish border. Don’t dally in Paris, as the journey to Irun takes five hours, and you’ll need to be there by early evening to catch the Trenhotel sleeper to Lisbon.
You won’t need a car in Lisbon – the metro, trams and buses are cheap and easy to use, and taxis have you covered for everything else. If you do choose to drive, there's plenty of room in the private underground car park (at an extra cost). The Smith24 team can arrange your hire.
Worth getting out of bed for
An excellent way to tick off the sights in many of the city’s most charming neighbourhoods is to ride the number 28 tram, a 1930s relic that slips round tight corners and climbs hills that would defeat a more modern train. Be sure to buy a 24-hour ticket at one of the metro stations before you board – that way you’ll be about to hop on and off as often as you like. Do keep an eye out for pickpockets, who’ve been known to take advantage of distracted tourists. Sitting astride the highest hill in Lisbon, São Jorge Castle is the place to go if you want a panoramic view over the tiled rooftops and the River Tagus. Originally inhabited by the Moors, the citadel was conquered by the Portuguese in the 12th century, and has been a Lisbon landmark ever since. The National Coach Museum traces the stylistic development of the horse-drawn state coach from the 16th century right up to the dawn of the engine. The bulk of the ornate vehicles on display were commissioned and used by members of the Portuguese royal family, but there are examples from other European courts too. If you have a day to spare, a visit to the fairytale-esque town of Sintra is unmissable. Built on the forested foothills of the Sintra Mountains, the town was the retreat of choice for Portuguese royalty and aristocrats, who built lavish palaces and exotic gardens with sweeping views across the land. If you can, go midweek, when the crowds are thinner.
Tucked away from the more touristy streets of the Bairro Alto, legendary Fado house Adega Machado has been a mainstay on Lisbon’s dining scene since the 1930s. The restaurant has a unique tiled exterior by the artist Tomaz de Mello, several rooms decked with local art and photographs, and a menu filled with Portuguese classics. Needless to say, the music sets as Lisbonian an atmosphere as you can get – just don’t book a table earlier than 9pm, as the band won't have started yet. Fellow Bairro Alto resident Insolitó sits astride the roof of a charming 19th-century building, giving it some of the best views of any restaurant in town. The eclectic decor sets a friendly and informal atmosphere, but the menu is full of excellent Portuguese cuisine. A short walk away in the historic Alfama district, Pois Café has soaring ceilings and large windows that are thrown open in summer, making it a go-to spot for brunches and lunches on sunny days. Right by the cathedral, it’s also an ideal spot for to indulge after a pious morning.
Every hotel featured is visited personally by members of our team, given the Smith seal of approval, and then anonymously reviewed. As soon as our reviewers have returned from this apartment-style hotel in Lisbon and unpacked their silver from famous jewelers Joalharia do Carmo, a full account of their city break will be with you. In the meantime, to whet your wanderlust, here's a quick peek inside the Lumiares in Lisbon…
For anyone living somewhere less sunny than Portugal, one of the highlights of a city break can be browsing the local markets, where the sun-ripened vegetables, fruit and other delights seem a cut above anything you could find back home. But it’s a pleasure tinged with a little pain, because if you’re staying in a traditional hotel, you won’t actually be able to cook with any of it. Thankfully, the people behind swish apartment-style hotel the Lumiares know this. They understand that luxury means options, so no matter what size of room you plump for, you’ll have a sleek Smeg kitchen with everything you’d need to whip up bacalhau à brás (a classic Portuguese fish dish) or caldo verde (the nation’s favourite soup). If you’d rather someone else do the work for you, you’ll be pleased to hear that the service is every inch what you’d expect at a grand dame; there’s also rooftop fine-dining with skyline views, and a compact spa in which some of the city’s finest masseurs work their magic. The hotel’s right at the heart of the old city, too, putting some of Lisbon's best eating and drinking on the doorstep.
Whenever you book a stay at a Smith hotel or villa, we’ll invite you to review it when you get back. Read what other Smith members had to say in The Lumiares’s Guestbook below.
The Lumiares is a beautiful hotel in the perfect location for sightseeing in Lisbon. We stayed in the studio accommodation where everything was perfect from the comfortable bed and pillows, fully stocked kitchen area with crisp, white Smeg appliances and initial complimentary water, beer and sodas in the fridge. Power sockets were well located for using a hairdryer, bath towels were large and generous and there were both curtains and black out doors at the full length window. Excellent restaurants within a very close proximity, helpful, happy staff and a perfect roof top bar and restaurant where a delicious breakfast was served every morning. We wouldn't hesitate to recommend The Lumiares as it completed our perfect city break. Thank you, Mr and Mrs Smith.
Don't expect to need to use the gym or spa area as there is so much hill walking to do in the city!
Stayed on 16 Jul 2019
We loved everything about this hotel. Its location is perfect in amongst intimate cobbled streets with lovely pavement restaurants and buzzing with atmosphere. The hotel itself is small and intimate with the most gorgeous roof terrace overlooking the pretty roofs of the Lisbon skyline and the river beyond. Breakfasts were delicious and had we had more time we would have tried the spa. We would highly recommend it.
Stayed on 6 Jul 2019
The location, the rooms, the service and the roof top bar.
Serenity - the hotel is in a busy area but the rooms are quiet.
Stayed on 31 May 2019
This hotel was great – it would be good for all ages and types. The staff were super nice and very helpful. The spa was great and I had a first-rate massage. The roof bar and restaurant was one of the best in Lisbon. All the rooms are like little apartments so they're super comfortable – really nice kitchenette and top-end appliances. This is a really gorgeous building inside. By the way, wear trainers in Lisbon – cobblestones everywhere!
A loungy lobby – you'll need to go to the roof to lounge.
Stayed on 7 May 2019
The super central location. Also the service of the staff could not be faulted. We loved the rooftop bar.
To stay in the apartment and not go out - there is so much going on in Lisbon!
Stayed on 19 Apr 2019
Everything at this hotel was amazing: our room was beautiful and felt like our own perfectly designed apartment, the staff was attentive and even surprised my husband with a cake in our room because it was his birthday during our stay. We had amazing spa treatments, too, that were really well priced. The location was awesome and easy for getting to many restaurants, bars and shops.
An easy walk - Lisbon is full of hills!
Stayed on 6 Apr 2019
The location on top of the hill in the Baixo Alto. The hotel had beautiful views and was close to the great little cafes and Fado bars. The rooms were peaceful and comfortable with modern furnishings. We enjoyed the bottle of wine on arrival!
To sweep up in your hired Range Rover - the streets are narrow and steep. We took the metro from the airport which was easy and fun!
Stayed on 5 Apr 2019
The two-bedroom apartment was excellent, we had plenty of room and space for an extra bed for our adult son who spent a couple of days with us. The staff were very friendly and helpful and the location was great - within walking distance of many bars, restaurants and sightseeing spots. The restaurant and rooftop bar was a bonus and breakfast was very good.
Stayed on 29 Mar 2019
The location is amazing, right in the middle of the weekend street party which takes over all the surrounding streets.
Stayed on 15 Feb 2019
We loved the location – walking distance to every where in the old town area. Great neighbourhood with interesting shops and places to eat. Off beat chic. We loved breakfast, all hot food cooked to order. The rooftop terrace had a sensational view. We loved the young, friendly and helpful staff.
A stuffy old world experience – this is young and relaxed.
Stayed on 17 Dec 2018
We loved everything about this hotel. The decor is funky, cool and on trend. The rooms are huge for European standards with a really comfy bed. Free mini bar was a surprise and the kitchenette was so well stocked and had Smeg appliances. Daily bottled water, tea and coffee supplied. The breakfast is yummy with a good variety served on the rooftop with magical views. Reception staff both friendly and helpful. Good location, amongst it all.
Don't expect a big bathroom. This was my only negative. It was tiny.
Stayed on 16 Oct 2018
Fantastic hotel apartment, so much space and beautifully designed. Would definitely stay there next time I am in Lisbon.