Lisbon, Portugal

The Lumiares

Rates per night from$156.92

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 60 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR138.68), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.

Style

Enlightened luxury

Setting

Lisbon’s cobbled heart

Tucked away in Lisbon’s historic heart, apartment-style stay The Lumiares lets you take on the city on your own terms – but its two restaurants, rooftop bar and stellar service give you all the perks of a luxury hotel. The wealth of options seems only right for a building that began life as a palace, and opulence is still visible in the renovated 18th-century stone staircase, Art Deco light fittings and geometric-patterned floors. But for all its glamour, this hotel is still very much rooted in the area, showcasing furniture, textiles and even hand-wrapped soap made by local artisans, whose ateliers – some of which are streets away – rub shoulders with family-run restaurants, buzzing cafés and worldly wine bars.

Smith Extra

Get this when you book through us:

A bottle of white wine in your room on arrival, 15 per cent off all spa treatments and free breakfast every day

Facilities

Photos The Lumiares facilities

Need to know

Rooms

Fifty-three, including four penthouse suites.

Check–Out

Noon, but flexible, subject to availability. Earliest check-in, 3pm.

Rates

Double rooms from $156.92 (€139), excluding tax at 6 per cent. Please note the hotel charges an additional local city tax of €1.00 per person per night on check-out.

More details

Rates don’t usually include breakfast (€18 for adults, €9 for kids), a buffet with fresh bread, Belem tarts, croissants and pancakes; seasonal fruit; cheese and meats; eggs.

Also

The art in the rooms includes work by celebrated street artist Maser, whose rise to prominence has taken his work from Dublin backstreets to fine art galleries.

At the hotel

Spa; gym; free WiFi throughout; laundry. In rooms: kitchenette with a Smeg mini fridge, induction hob, microwave and toaster; TV; Nespresso coffee machine; Beats Pill+ wireless sound system; tea-making kit; free bottled water; Claus Porto bath products.

Our favourite rooms

Ask for a room on the upper floors, which have killer views across the terracotta rooftops. The penthouse apartments take the biscuit in this respect, but you’ll still have plenty to see if you throw open the windows in the lower-tier rooms. If you can’t get one near the top, any disappointment will be banished by booking one of the split-level Loft Style apartments on the ground floor, which have roomy bedrooms overlooking the living area.

Spa

The small but stylish spa has separate saunas and steam rooms for Mr Smith and Mrs Smith, and four treatment rooms manned by some of the city’s most dextrous therapists. All the products are by La Sultane de Saba, and can be bought at the spa boutique. There’s also a 24-hour gym; personal trainers are available on request.

Packing tips

Lisbon is a city of hills with steep cobbled streets, so you’ll need some comfy shoes if you want to avoid the Compeed.

Also

All of the common areas are wheelchair accessible, as are some of the two-bedroom apartments.

Children

All ages are welcome at the hotel, and the Two Bedroom Apartments have plenty of room for families. Babysitting is available for €20 an hour (a day’s notice is required, and the minimum booking is three hours).

Food and Drink

Photos The Lumiares food and drink

Top Table

In Lumni, it’s got to be a table on the terrace. If the weather isn’t playing ball, then ask for one by the open kitchen.

Dress Code

You can kick back and keep it casual for Mercado; Lumni is a bit more of a dress-to-impress sort.

Hotel restaurant

There are two restaurants at the hotel, both helmed by celebrated Portuguese chef Miguel Castro e Silva, credited with being one of the country’s first chefs to play around with traditional recipes – something that was once considered borderline taboo. Occupying a rooftop space with some of the best views in the Bairro Alto, Lumni, the more formal of the two, serves elegant Portuguese dishes with an international lean; the signature dish is ox heart tartare, but the sea bass with orange and fennel has won many a heart too. More casual and typically Portuguese, Mercado Café is where Silva takes on mesticos (Portuguese tapas) and other home cooked classics, along with light options like sandwiches and salads.

Hotel bar

The rooftop bar really is the jewel in the hotel’s crown. Glass walls ensure you’ve got a clear line of sight over the rooftops, towards the castle and out to sea; after dusk, the facades of the surrounding churches and townhouses emerge from the darkness in floodlit glory. Bring in the evening with one of the hotel’s signature cocktails, El Gringo, a medley of Maker’s Mark bourbon, port, Benedictine liqueur and bitters.

Last orders

In Lumni, breakfast is served from 7.30am to 10.30 am. The Portuguese like to lunch late, so the restaurant doesn’t reopen until 4pm, but from then on you can dine anytime until 11pm. Mercado opens its doors at 11.30 am and doesn’t close til midnight.

Location

Photos The Lumiares location
Address
The Lumiares
R. do Diário de Notícias 142
Lisbon
1200-146
Portugal

Planes

Lisbon Airport is a major hub, and can be reached direct from many of the larger European cities and select US airports. It takes 20 minutes to drive from the airport to the hotel. The Smith24 team can arrange your flights and transfers; call anytime, day or night.

Trains

If you’re coming from further afield than Spain, it’ll be much faster to fly. But if you’re up for the journey, you can get from London to Lisbon by train in around 24 hours. You’ll need to catch an early morning Eurostar service from St Pancras to Paris’ Gare du Nord, change to Montparnasse station, then catch a south-bound TGV service to Irun, the first stop over the Spanish border. Don’t dally in Paris, as the journey to Irun takes five hours, and you’ll need to be there by early evening to catch the Trenhotel sleeper to Lisbon.

Automobiles

You won’t need a car in Lisbon – the metro, trams and buses are cheap and easy to use, and taxis have you covered for everything else. If you do choose to drive, there's plenty of room in the private underground car park (at an extra cost). The Smith24 team can arrange your hire.

Worth getting out of bed for

An excellent way to tick off the sights in many of the city’s most charming neighbourhoods is to ride the number 28 tram, a 1930s relic that slips round tight corners and climbs hills that would defeat a more modern train. Be sure to buy a 24-hour ticket at one of the metro stations before you board – that way you’ll be about to hop on and off as often as you like. Do keep an eye out for pickpockets, who’ve been known to take advantage of distracted tourists. Sitting astride the highest hill in Lisbon, São Jorge Castle is the place to go if you want a panoramic view over the tiled rooftops and the River Tagus. Originally inhabited by the Moors, the citadel was conquered by the Portuguese in the 12th century, and has been a Lisbon landmark ever since. The National Coach Museum traces the stylistic development of the horse-drawn state coach from the 16th century right up to the dawn of the engine. The bulk of the ornate vehicles on display were commissioned and used by members of the Portuguese royal family, but there are examples from other European courts too. If you have a day to spare, a visit to the fairytale-esque town of Sintra is unmissable. Built on the forested foothills of the Sintra Mountains, the town was the retreat of choice for Portuguese royalty and aristocrats, who built lavish palaces and exotic gardens with sweeping views across the land. If you can, go midweek, when the crowds are thinner.

Local restaurants

Tucked away from the more touristy streets of the Bairro Alto, legendary fado house Adega Machado has been a mainstay on Lisbon’s dining scene since the 1930s. The restaurant has a unique tiled exterior by the artist Tomaz de Mello, several rooms decked with local art and photographs, and a menu filled with Portuguese classics. Needless to say, the music sets as Lisbonian an atmosphere as you can get – just don’t book a table earlier than 9pm, as the band won't have started yet. Fellow Bairro Alto resident Insolitó sits astride the roof of a charming 19th-century building, giving it some of the best views of any restaurant in town. The eclectic decor sets a friendly and informal atmosphere, but the menu is full of excellent Portuguese cuisine. A short walk away in the historic Alfama district, Pois Café has soaring ceilings and large windows that are thrown open in summer, making it a go-to spot for brunches and lunches on sunny days. Right by the cathedral, it’s also an ideal spot for to indulge after a pious morning.

Reviews

Photos The Lumiares reviews

Anonymous review

Every hotel featured is visited personally by members of our team, given the Smith seal of approval, and then anonymously reviewed. As soon as our reviewers have returned from this apartment-style hotel in Lisbon and unpacked their silver from famous jewelers Joalharia do Carmo, a full account of their city break will be with you. In the meantime, to whet your wanderlust, here's a quick peek inside the Lumiares in Lisbon…

For anyone living somewhere less sunny than Portugal, one of the highlights of a city break can be browsing the local markets, where the sun-ripened vegetables, fruit and other delights seem a cut above anything you could find back home. But it’s a pleasure tinged with a little pain, because if you’re staying in a traditional hotel, you won’t actually be able to cook with any of it. Thankfully, the people behind swish apartment-style hotel the Lumiares know this. They understand that luxury means options, so no matter what size of room you plump for, you’ll have a sleek Smeg kitchen with everything you’d need to whip up bacalhau à brás (a classic Portuguese fish dish) or caldo verde (the nation’s favourite soup). If you’d rather someone else do the work for you, you’ll be pleased to hear that the service is every inch what you’d expect at a grand dame; there’s also rooftop fine-dining with skyline views, and a compact spa in which some of the city’s finest masseurs work their magic. The hotel’s right at the heart of the old city, too, putting some of Lisbon's best eating and drinking on the doorstep.

The Guestbook

Whenever you book a stay at a Smith hotel or villa, we’ll invite you to review it when you get back. Read what other Smith members had to say in The Lumiares’s Guestbook below.

We loved

We loved everything about this hotel. The decor is funky, cool and on trend. The rooms are huge for European standards with a really comfy bed. Free mini bar was a surprise and the kitchenette was so well stocked and had Smeg appliances. Daily bottled water, tea and coffee supplied. The breakfast is yummy with a good variety served on the rooftop with magical views. Reception staff both friendly and helpful. Good location, amongst it all.

Don’t expect

Don't expect a big bathroom. This was my only negative. It was tiny.

Rating

Stayed on 16 Oct 2018