It seems impossible to visit Florence and feel ‘meh’ about the city. A pitstop that largely contributed to the ‘grand’ in the Grand Tour, the wellspring of the Renaissance and a trove of art and architecture so enamouring it paralysed French writer Stendhal with its beauty (his namesake psychological phenomenon is also known as ‘Florence syndrome’) — it tends to make visitors fall head over heels.
In a city about which John Ruskin raved, ‘You will begin to wonder that human daring ever achieved anything so magnificent,’ you don’t want any old hotel, you want the best, whether you’re here on a weekend break, are visiting with family, seeking spa solace, or want to accrue the city’s homegrown heritage labels. So, we offer you nothing less, with our pick of the best hotels in Florence.
For a romantic break
Villa Cora
Want a stay that’s as heavy on the romance as Dante and his Beatrice? Try Villa Cora. Here, amore is infused throughout as headily as the dreamy Aquaflor fragrance. Upping the romance is the liberal use of pastel pink, rose-themed bedrooms, and the love story behind it: Baron Oppenheim built it for his wife Eugenia in the 19th century.
But then, he did also try to burn the place down when she cheated on him. Your stay will run smoother than the course of that particular love, with meals in the gloriously gilded dining room, champagne on the Duomo-view roof terrace, spells in the tricked-out spa and a Sunday brunch that spans five rooms (and involves a popcorn machine). Plus, finishing each day with quartet-soundtracked cocktails is sure to inflame your passion, in a good way, on this occasion.
Best room for couples Emperor Akihito of Japan may not be your particular role-play choice, but do follow in his regal footsteps and stay in the Imperial Suite (as he did during his visit in 1982). It takes up 67 square metres of the piano nobile, and within are honeymoon hallmarks: a balcony, draped four-poster and sweeping frescoes by 19th-century artists Luigi Samoggia and Angelo Pietrasanta.
Design details Oppenheim certainly spoilt his love, furnishing the villa with Carrara and Siena marbles, Murano glassware, silks from the renowned Fréres Braquenie d’Aubusson factory, ornate-as-a-puzzle parquet, statuary and other excesses. Each floor has a unique theme, too — from Moorish detailing to Forties Americana — and we especially like the blue, neon glow of the illuminated table in the Cigar Room.
Something to eat In winter, Le Bistrot’s tables are set under the painted dome of the lavishly decorated and draped dining room. In summer, you dine alfresco, or in a white pavilion by the pool. Dishes are largely classic Italian, but with some experimental touches: cacio e pepe with prawn and lemongrass; or onion tart with almond ice-cream and sage-infused milk.
See the sights There are incremental levels of luxury to the city tours the hotel offers, starting on foot, by bike or even inflatable raft down the Arno; going up to a Vespa or Fiat 500. Or hire the hotel’s Mercedes for a wine-tasting whirl round Chianti. You can also get acquainted with heritage crafts: leather tooling at Scuola del Cuoio, perfumery at Aquaflor or mosaic-making at Fratelli Traversari.
For spa spoiling
Collegio alla Querce
Retreat from the bustle of the centro storico, with a 20-minute taxi ride to Collegio alla Querce, tucked into the Fiesole hills as cosily as a guest in the hotel’s Rivolta Carmignani bedlinen. This 16th-century university campus’s new scholarly pursuit is wellness; in the Auberge spa, Aelia treatments use garden-gathered herbs and flowers, local olive oil, lemons and grape seeds. Soothing comes in the form of somatic rituals and a very Italian take on a sound bath: led by opera singers.
We’ve also learnt that former classrooms are now suites with coffered ceilings and the odd fresco; the original chapel and theatre have been restored for very special events; and you won’t mind being called to the headmaster’s office, which is now a cocktail lounge.
Most pampering room Residenza la Quercia is a fitting post-treatment refuge. It has a calming, outdoor-in feel with trees painted on its walls and a roof terrace with a plunge pool for scenic soaking. Its private, cypress-lined entryway minimises the chances of anyone disturbing your soporific state.
Design details Local interior designers ArchFlorence have made the Collegio look anything but textbook, incorporating high-Renaissance features into a modern styling. Rooms sport Brunello-wine and latte hues, and the profuse indoor greenery overflows into tiered gardens.
Something to eat Farm-fresh Tuscan fare gets an upgrade from pitchfork to silverware in glass-roofed, greenery-laden eatery La Gamella. Expect drifts of black truffle, ricotta speckled with fresh herbs, and ragùs with rich constitutions. Or follow your nose through the terraced gardens to Cafe Focolare by the pool, where pizzas are paddled into a stone oven.
See the sights The staff can arrange wine tastings and pasta- or tiramisu-making classes; but you could also traverse the Duomo’s usually off-limits terraces on a ‘sky walk’, explore and eat at Chianti’s most celebrated butcher, Macelleria Cecchini, craft a signature scent at Casa Profumoir or go vroom through Tuscany’s verdant folds in your choice of Ferrari model.
For a stay near the Duomo
Etra Collection
Brunelleschi’s terracotta dome, crowning the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, dominates Florence’s skyline with its mightily impressive heft. Conspicuous as it is, you’re not guaranteed a view of it; but at Etra Collection — a set of luxury apartments within peeking distance on Via dei Pecori — most suites sit eye to eye with the Duomo.
The view might date back centuries, but Palazzo Todescan, which Etra is housed in, has controversially modern, art nouveau features: strong angles, calligraphic metalwork, the odd nymph statuette and large Alphonse Mucha murals in rooms to hammer the look home. The level of luxury stays Medici-esque though: staff clearly have a fairy-godmother complex and there’s a range of add-on experts (butler, chef, Pilates instructor).
The landmark room The Signature Suite not only shows you Florence’s most iconic sight, but Giotto’s Bell Tower and the Baptistery, too. And it’s aesthetically pleasing on the inside — we love the sleek Boffi kitchen, heated parquet flooring, fireplaces and wine fridge. From the Dr Vranjes diffusers to the Jo Malone London bath products, it’s a stay all about the finer things.
Design details Don’t expect worn beams or age-pocked stone — Etra Collection is modern and Scandi-esque, with wishbone chairs and fluffy throws. Four-posters are minimalist, hues are neutral with a glint of gold and frills are banished — although there is the odd chandelier and velvet sofa as token Italian gesticulations.
Something to eat The ‘private chef’ is in fact two Michelin-star-holders: Daniele and Andrea Zazzeri from La Pineta Zazzeri. They can tailor menus to your whim, but you might prefer going by the carta, when there could be shrimp risotto with pomegranate and fried cabbage, or almond tart with lemon purée and liquorice. Alongside noted landmarks, revered restaurants Enoteca Pinchiorri, Ora d’Aria and Osteria Pagliazza are steps away too.
See the sights Go to the Cathedral, of course, and the Bell Tower and Baptistery, followed by a classic circuit of the Medici’s Basilica di San Lorenzo to the north and lively Piazza della Repubblica to the south. Carve out time to see Orsanmichele, too, a church where Florence’s most famous sculptors vied for recognition. Juxtapose with the contemporary art at Palazzo Strozzi and the radical 19th- and 20th-century literature in Gabinetto Vieusseux‘s library, where greats such as DH Lawrence, Mark Twain and Aldous Huxley would bat ideas about.
For family getaways
Hotel Lungarno
It might be one of the city’s most luxurious stays, but Hotel Lungarno shows that the Italian affinity for bambini is very much felt in Florence. Sizeable Arno-side suites fit the whole clan (cots can be added on request), dining options give little ones a gentle intro to authentic cuisine and art materials can be borrowed if they’re inspired by the hotel’s impressive collection, comprising of 400 pieces, including works by Picasso and Cocteau.
It’s perfectly positioned, too. The Ponte Vecchio is within eyeballing distance, and you can gaze out at a Florentine panorama from the hotel’s Oltrarno seat. This means easy days out, where rides up the Bell Tower and climbs up to the Duomo make monuments feel like a playground; and with the city’s famous art offerings, you can slip cultural learnings into your trip like peas into mashed potato.
Best room for families The Family Room has two bedrooms, lounge space for gathering together and a Ponte Vecchio-showcasing balcony for a few glasses of minibar wine when the kids are in bed. With blue-velvet sofas, polished-wood furnishings and elegant panelling, it’s eminently stylish, too.
Design details Designer Michele Bönan references the hotel’s waterside setting and the city’s past as a rich trading port in its look, using deep blue hues and fine craftsmanship for a nautical feel.
Something to eat Picteau Bistrot has some of the best views in the city and a sophisticated bar, but kids are very welcome to tuck into pizzas, simple spaghettis, and crêpes and waffles topped with Nutella here. Or cross the bridge to sister stay Portrait Firenze’s Caffè dell’Oro, where the kids’ menu mixes trusted faves with true Italian eats (Parma ham and melon, saffron risotto, gelato). For date nights, book a window seat at Michelin-star-holding Borgo San Jacopo.
See the sights Leave day-planning to the well-versed staff, who can arrange cookery classes, art workshops, private tours with interactive storytelling and scavenger hunts, and trips to Boboli Gardens. Zippier ways of seeing the sights are by golf cart or e-scooter. And be sure to swing by the Leonardo da Vinci Museum, where kids can get hands-on with his inventions.
For nightlife
Continentale
Pack sparkly things and a beautifully tailored suit for a stay at Continentale; its La Terrazza bar, set on top of a mediaeval tower is a ‘see and be seen’ spot, in that its view radiates out to the Tuscan hills, and the crowd is a dressed-up, cocktail-clinking sort. The hotel takes its design cues and retro-fabulous feel from the Fifties, and — while La Dolce Vita was released at the tail end of the decade — you could imagine Marcello Mastroianni and Anita Ekberg carousing through.
Continentale is close to the lively Santa Croce district for later-night revelry; and very understanding staff, a calm colour scheme and treatments in the hotel’s White Iris spa will chase any next-day demons away.
Best room for post-partying recovery A true hideout for hedonists, the Panoramic Consorti Suite doesn’t ask you to choose between eyeing the River Arno or swooning over the Duomo; the canopied bed overlooks the former, and the enormous bath tub lets you soak and sigh over the latter. A guaranteed tonic of a space, wherever you wake up in it.
Design details This is one of several hotels in the city owned by the Ferragamo family (a collection including Gallery Hotel Art, Hotel Lungarno and Portrait Firenze), but it’s not fussily fashionable. Instead, design collaborator Michele Bönan chose a mostly all-white scheme, with floaty bed veils, mid-century furnishings and gentle neon pink and orange under-lighting to zap in contemporary cool.
Something to eat Only breakfast is served at the hotel, but you can order Nikkei-style cuisine from next-door neighbour Gallery Hotel Art’s Fusion restaurant as room service — the best option for that very long lie-in, really.
See the sights Drink up at the hotel and head out, perhaps across the Arno to low-lit speakeasy Rasputin, low-key natural-wine joint Vineria Sonora, or — for more upmarket cocktail magic — theatrical hotspot Locale. Piazza Sant’Ambrogio is a popular night-starting spot; chase an apéritif here with an espresso to keep you clubbing till the small hours at Blue Velvet, Space or seasonal Blanco Beach Bar.
For shopping
Stella d’Italia
Florence’s history runs so deep that often hotels just casually hang out in centuries-old palazzi. Case in point: Stella d’Italia, which is housed in 16th-century Palazzo del Circolo dell’Unione, designed by true Renaissance man Giorgio Vasari — no biggie. But its outer hauteur is balanced out by a welcoming Wes Anderson-goes-to-a-flea-market aesthetic within.
Your eye will be caught throughout by shell-shaped cocktail chairs, vintage film posters, maps and portraiture. For drinks on the city-facing terrace, flip down an upcycled cinema seat; and you’ll breakfast by an original fresco — delightful surprises await in every niche. It’s set right on Via dè Tornabuoni, Florence’s most vaunted shopping street, so you’ll likely to accrue some treasures for yourself, too.
Best room for storing souvenirs From the window of the Junior Suite with a View you can target the boutiques on your attack plan (Gucci, Prada, Fendi…), and it has an anteroom for stashing your logo-ed bags. Post-spree, it’s a cheering space to decompress in, with side-by-side bath tubs in the bedroom and colourful, grandma-goes-to-Pucci prints.
Design details Stella rocks the seemingly thrown-together look that somehow works perfectly, with her gelato-kiosk colours, neon artwork, trompe-l’œil ceilings, heritage ceramics and furnishings from many design movements and eras.
Something to eat Only breakfast is served here, but with ceremony, in a room painted with columns, Tuscan landscapes and drapery. The bar’s decor tells a story too: it’s lined with Buon Ricordo plates, handpainted with the signature dishes of regional restaurants. It was once custom for diners ordering that particular dish to keep the plate too; here, they stay affixed to the wall, but you can admire them as you sip a Negroni.
See the sights From Versace at the top to Dior at the bottom, Via dè Tornabuoni has a ruinous selection of shops. Highlights include the exquisitely ornate perfumers Santa Maria Novella; a Gucci flagship with collections spanning homewares, pet accessories and pre-loved pieces; and the Ferragamo Museum, set in the basement of Baroque Palazzo Spini Feroni. The gift shop only sells books, but the original shoe store sits above, so you can wear a pair out, if you wish. And, for fashion obsessives, dinner at the Gucci Osteria is requisite.
For culture
This Time Tomorrow in Florence
If you see aperitivi on a sun-kissed terrace, a home filled with works by art’s biggest names and the sort of lazy, lavish life a minor noble might enjoy (say, frescoes and chandeliers; consultations with local sommeliers; private visits to art galleries) in your future, well, set an alarm, because This Time Tomorrow could make that happen today (or as soon as flight times allow).
It’s catnip for cultured sorts and an appetiser for The Uffizi, with a personal collection including Mannerist paintings by Jacob de Backer, a Dalí lithograph and abstracts by Dutch painter Theo Kuijpers. The well-connected concierge is a dab hand at curating edifying itineraries, too.
The most highbrow hideaway Renaissance richness and modern comforts come together in each apartment (some of which are named after a particular time): ‘1am’ has velvet sofas, marquetry flooring, tapestries and painted ceilings; ‘2am’ has original, centuries-old artwork on its walls; and ‘3am’ has a private rooftop terrace.
Design details The architects at SpaceStudio and interior designers at RecDi8 ensured the building’s character was preserved during their restoration. They kept the terrazzo flooring, beams and paintwork, and added complementary contemporary statement pieces.
Something to eat You’ll arrive to fins a welcome hamper of Tuscan delicacies — a good excuse to put that top-line kitchen in your suite to use. Breakfast is served at the pasticceria across the road. If you need to stock up on supplies, the Essalunga supermarket is just down the street.
See the sights Join an ‘art sleuth’ to uncover Renaissance secrets; tour the Ferragamo Museum with a member of the fashion-house family; join American sculptor Jason Arkles for a deep dive into the discipline; and get hands on at a goldsmith’s jewellery-making class. After your crash courses in Italian culture, taste your way through the renowned Antinori estate wines.
For a budget-friendly trip
Riva Lofts
Wander north up the left bank of the Arno and you’ll hit Florentine suburb Isolotto; here there are Bellini-hued villas, but otherwise it feels like a spot where the day to day goes on without the distraction of huge, look-at-me monuments. You can live like a local — well, one with a lauded background in architecture — at Riva Lofts.
Formerly a factory, then artisan workshops and now the home of architect Claudio Nardi, the lofts in question have been immaculately reconfigured, with soaring ceilings, large arched windows positioned just-so and a modern minimalist look, all at an extremely reasonable price that allows you to take residence for longer.
Best value room Book the Superior for a proper ‘loft’ feel, where spaces are romantically divided with white netting. It also has a kitchenette for simple meal-making, and the sort of set-dressing that would shine in any respectable design mag.
Design details There may be little in the way of ornamentation, but the lofts’ warm wood and stone, and Sixties-leaning furniture add character to each space.
Something to eat Set in one of the stone-walled former workshops, Riva-K restaurant is an intimate dining space (open for dinner from Wednesday to Saturday and for brunch on Sunday). Dishes are dictated by season, but might include handmade pastas stuffed with cheese or ragù, anchovies on brioche, and pork belly with chimichurri. There’s also a small deli on-site where you can stock up on ingredients (pastas, sauces and such).
See the sights Chill out in the hotel garden, swim in the pool, book a private yoga session…you could just lean into the good life here. Or borrow one of the hotel’s bikes to freewheel along the riverside. Staff will pack you a picnic for afternoons in neighbouring Parco delle Cascine or genteel Parco di Villa Strozzi. The centro storico is about a 30-minute walk away, or take the tram from the Paolo Uccello stop to Santa Maria Novella in just a few minutes.
For all-out luxury
Portrait Firenze
You’ll leave Portrait Firenze wondering how you can get your home to smell just like it, and look quite so put together, and be airlifted to its Arno-side location… But like cantuccini biscuits dipped into vinsanto, something this richly done isn’t an everyday treat. Truly Florentine at heart, it’s immaculately styled (in a palette of grey, black and gold), appreciates fine food and wine — and an unhurried aperitivo — and keeps good company, with its connections to the Ferragamo family.
But, for its retro-fabulous glamour and no-cost-spared feel, Portrait Firenze is welcoming to all, including children and dogs, and has service so terribly charming you can’t help but fall madly in love. It’s why guests keep coming back here, no matter how indulgent, and to its sister stays in Rome and Milan.
Most extravagant room You could almost ride a Vespa through the huge Portrait Penthouse Floor suite, with its five bedrooms and 50-square-metre terrace. You’d probably see almost as many sights while doing so — from this vantage point you can tick off the city’s most famous ones.
Design details On-point panelling, gilt-edged lighting, black-and-white pictures of Fifties movie stars: the hotel announces its luxury with a seductive whisper rather than a bang.
Something to eat Caffè Dell’Oro’s menu has primi pastas and a top tiramisù, but it’s not a straight-shooting Italian, with fusion dishes such as soft-shell crab with ginger salad in a lemon-lavender gel; or risotto with blue cheese, cured duck and pomegranate.
See the sights You need to book ahead to see The Uffizi’s treasures; but with the gallery just down the road, queueing early feels less of a chore. Admire Piazza della Signoria’s statues and stop at Palazzo Vecchio, then pay homage to the city’s historic science whizz at the Galileo Museum. You’ll not want for wine bars (Le Volpi e l’Uva and Enoteca Spontanea are some local faves), but you could also go on a crawl of the city’s Buchette del Vino (wine windows), from which glasses magically appear.
For exploring Oltrarno
Oltrarno Splendid
On the south bank of the Arno, the Oltrarno district’s sights don’t pull in the same crowds as the Duomo, but it’s the better for it, emerging as a trendy, artsy quarter where young crowds come to hang out till late. Oltrarno Splendid hotel holds up a foxed mirror to its locale, reflecting its attitude in a mish-mash of furniture, artworks and curios, shabbily sophisticated rooms and with an appealingly unpolished feel.
It’s been a winning formula for hotel owners — and thrifting ninjas — Betty and Matteo, whose signature style is also at play in hideaways AdAstra, SoprArno Suites and Stella d’Italia. For those wanting to see a less crowded side of the city that shows Florence is far from being a museum, this stay is splendid for sure, but not in a braggy way.
The room for aspiring locals There’s a winking allure to each room type, with decor that makes you feel like one of the cool-crowd art students roaming the ‘hood, but we especially like the King and Deluxe King rooms with their freestanding bath tubs, sometimes in the bedroom.
Design details Some rooms have fully frescoed walls; some artfully scuffed plaster; some chandeliers, some hulking industrial lamps — there’s some kind of rhyme and reason to it, and personality is packed in, through vintage signs, maps and film posters, and a jumble of seating.
Something to eat Only a Continental breakfast is served at the hotel, but that gives you good reason to try the neighbourhood hotspots. Have pumpkin flan with blue-cheese fondue at Osteria dell’Enoteca, brandy-flambéed pici with truffle at Trattoria Boboli, and more traditional Tuscan fare at Trattoria la Casalinga (rabbit and potatoes, tripe, bean soup).
See the sights Palazzo Pitti hosts no less than five museums, with a collection spanning religious icons, clothing and Chinese porcelain. The Bardini Museum is smaller but no less intriguing, and you’ll find yet more Renaissance masters at Brancacci Chapel and the Church of Santo Spirito. The Boboli Gardens are some of the city’s prettiest for wandering in, and be sure to cap off your day with gin cocktails at Ditta Artigianale.
Now see the best of the rest in Florence or plan ahead for a weekend break in the city