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Hotel Highlights

  • Spectacular period interiors
  • Huge heated outdoor pool
  • Breathtaking rooftop views of Florence and Fiesole


Built in the 1870s by Baron Oppenheim for his wife, Villa Cora is a love letter in art and architecture. Opulent in the extreme, but by no means over-blinged, the interiors reflect the eclectic passions of the aristo and his belle – namely roses, the Orient, ornate parquet, and spectacular frescoes and statuary. The massive heated outdoor pool – the only one in Florence – comes courtesy of the 21st-century renovation, as does the flawless service.

Smith Extra

Here's what you get for booking Villa Cora with us:

A bottle of sparkling wine


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Grand Hotel Villa Cora - Florence - Italy

Need To Know


46, including six suites.


12 noon, but flexible and free, subject to availability. Earliest check-in, 2pm.


Double rooms from $465.56 (€415), excluding tax at 10 per cent. Please note the hotel charges an additional local city tax of €5.00 per person per night on check-out.

More details

Rates exclude breakfast (€25 each for a massive American buffet) and city tax (€5 a day each).


There’s no smoking anywhere – except the cigar room, where guests can light up a Cuban with impunity. Small dogs are welcome; they’re essential Florentine fashion accessories – just keep them out of the restaurant.

At the hotel

Subterranean spa with sauna, steam room, gym and Jacuzzi, cigar room, gardens, roof terrace and free WiFi throughout. In rooms: flatscreen TV, iPod dock, minibar and rose-scented Annick Goutal bath products.

Our favourite rooms

The Forties-themed suite on the fourth floor is the ideal honeymoon hideaway, and the private elevator-key access adds a VIP frisson. Rooms on the piano nobile (first floor) are protected by the Italian government as historically important – and no wonder: in addition to the towering ceilings, ornate frescoes and antiques à gogo, they include the Imperial Suite (105–6), which once housed emperor Akihito. Parental Smiths should hit Family Suite 311 on the Orientally flavoured third floor: there’s an extra twin room.


The huge, heated outdoor pool (the only one in Florence) is a rectangular flash of turquoise amid the white-stone patio and green grounds, with loungers and parasols aplenty, as well as a stash of inflatables for the kids. In summer, thanks to the poolside bar and restaurant, food and drink are just steps away – or summon a waiter to your lounger.

Packing tips

This is Hermès-scarves-and-giant-sunnies territory, so channel Hepburn. Poolside iPad-tapping is essential for anyone wanting to work that share-checking businessman/track-mixing music-producer look.


Villa Cora goes underground in winter – a network of cunning subterranean tunnels link the main villa with the Villa Eugénie (which houses the spa and some bedrooms) and the poolside restaurant.


Little Smiths are welcome: extra beds are €70 a night, and babysitting can be arranged (€30 an hour, book two days in advance). The restaurant has highchairs and a tot-tailored menu, and the hotel has a 'VIB' (very important baby) activity programme.

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Food & Drink

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Grand Hotel Villa Cora - Florence - Italy

Hotel Restaurant

Between May and October, all meals are served at Le Pool, a white and glassy eatery flanking the water. The menu is authentically Tuscan (with the odd creative flourish), so expect rich, velvety pasta sauces and masterfully prepared seafood. The tasting menu – fish or meat – takes you on a tour of the region’s signature dishes. In winter, indoor restaurant Il Pasha in the basement takes over kitchen duties.

Hotel Bar

There’s a chic little outdoor bar beside the restaurant (and, handily, right by the pool), which is well stocked with Tuscan wines and mixes a mean martini. Or try a zingy Cora Spritz (nicknamed ‘Hugo’ for reasons unbeknownst to us), a muddle of mint, prosecco and elderflower. In winter, retreat to Le Long Bar indoors, which has a huge colour-changing glass table, or grab a brandy for a spell in the cigar room.

Last orders

Breakfast between 7am and 11am; have lunch between 12.30pm and 2.30pm and dine between 7.30pm and 10.30pm. Lighter bites can be rustled up should you be peckish in between. The last tipples are mixed at midnight in the bar.

Room service

An array of full-on meals, snacks, salads and drinks can be brought to your room at any time.

Smith Insider

Dress code

Fabulous in Fendi/Ferragamo (or Massimo Dutti’s closest imitation).

Top table

Take the far table next to the bar at Le Pool and admire the water babies/eavesdrop on the bar chat.

Local Guide

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Eat, drink, see, do: local favourites and more…

Worth getting out of bed for

The body-conscious can ask staff to arrange a personal trainer, or take part in a Pilates session. Outside the hotel walls, the enchanting Boboli gardens and imposing Pitti Palace beckon. Of course, there are some things you can’t miss when in Florence; tourist tick-boxes include the Ponte Vecchio, Piazza della Signoria, il Duomo, San Miniato al Monte and Piazzale Michelangelo – all easily accessible from Villa Cora.

Local restaurants

Have a romantic meal in the cosy wine cellar at Ristorante Boccanegra (; +39 055 200 1098), named after the city’s first Doge, Simon Boccanegra. Ingredients are top-notch, recipes traditional – try the succulent and sizeable T-bone steak. On the topic of steak, we have to mention Pandenonio (; +39 055 224 002) on Via del Leone, which serves exemplary bistecca alla fiorentina, adorned only with a slick of olive oil and a scattering of sea salt. If you fancy a change from rustic trattorie, enjoy experimental modern dishes (egg yolk with foie gras, pear and balsamic vinegar; suckling pig with garlic, lavender and black mustard) courtesy of Ora d'Aria (; +39 055 200 1699) on Via Dei Georgofili. The decor is as chic as the cuisine. Fellini (; +39 055 247 8898) will please seafood lovers. Sophisticated but hearty dishes include pumpkin soup with prawns and carpet shells, amberjack served with Muscat grapes, and gobbets of octopus with potato cream. Fuor d'acqua (; +39 055 222 299) is set in what was once a chariot warehouse, and the building has retained its historic grace. Fresh fish is picked every day at the market in Viareggio.

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Bordering on Boboli

Villa Cora

18 viale Machiavelli, Florence, Tuscany, 50125

On the Oltrarno, south of the river, Villa Cora sits on a strip of opulent villas on Viale Machievelli, which cuts through the beautiful manicured parkland of Giardini di Boboli.


The closest option is Florence’s small Peretola airport (, 8km away – a 20-minute drive from the hotel. Pisa International Airport (, covers more destinations worldwide; it’s about an hour away by car or train from Santa Maria Novella train station The hotel can organise transfers from Peretola Airport (£80 for a one-way trip).


Florence’s main rail hub, Santa Maria Novella station ( is 3km from the hotel and links the city with the rest of Italy and Europe; high-speed lines connect to both Rome and Bologna. A taxi will cost around €15, or the hotel can arrange a one-way transfer for £50.


Florence is about an hour by car from Siena, Pisa and most of the stops on the Chianti wine trail. The city centre can be tricky for cars – its mediaeval streets get notoriously jammed, but Villa Cora is on the more navigable southern side, and has plenty of free parking. Florence, Peretola and Pisa International Airports all have car-hire kiosks, but the hotel is close enough to the city centre to travel by foot (and perhaps the odd taxi).


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Grand Hotel Villa Cora - Florence - Italy
Villa Cora
Villa Cora 18 viale Machiavelli Florence 50125 Florence Italy

Anonymous review

by , Team Wordsmith at Mr & Mrs Smith

Rating: 10/10 stars
Mrs Smith has never seen Florence. I tell her it’ll be amazing: we’ll meander the corridors of the Uffizi, I’ll explain the architectural genius of Brunelleschi’s Duomo using only an egg, we’ll watch the sun set from the Ponte Vecchio, and titter romantically over caricatures by overpriced street artists. We’ll return home fluent in the language of Dante and exp…
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Villa Cora

Anonymous review by Anthony Leyton, Team Wordsmith

Mrs Smith has never seen Florence. I tell her it’ll be amazing: we’ll meander the corridors of the Uffizi, I’ll explain the architectural genius of Brunelleschi’s Duomo using only an egg, we’ll watch the sun set from the Ponte Vecchio, and titter romantically over caricatures by overpriced street artists. We’ll return home fluent in the language of Dante and experts in mediaeval banking systems; we’ll be the Renaissance on legs.

That’s the plan. As soon as we start to make our way to Villa Cora, it’s clear that things are not going to go according to it. We’ve walked from the station, because I had a ridiculous notion that lugging baggage and buggy through central Florence in the parching heat would be poetic. There’s a protest on in the piazza (this is Italy), the streets are thronged, traffic’s solid and I’ve led us half a mile in the wrong direction. By the time we’ve made it over the Arno to the grassy serenity of the Boboli Gardens and the illustrious, villa-lined Viale Machiavelli, we’re sweating, exhausted and Mrs Smith is silently calculating the divorce settlement.

Luckily, nothing saves a marriage quite like stepping into the most special place you’ve ever seen. Villa Cora is magnificent. Palatial. Opulent. All the words that ring hollow because they’ve been used so many times before to mean ‘quite nice, with marble bits’. It’s stuffed to the ceilings with gilded stucco, sweeping frescoes and ornate statuary – you can barely cross a corridor without bumping into a dryad. Or, for that matter, head-turningly glamorous Italian women. As my eyes follow a Vogue-worthy vision out the dramatic double doors, I wonder if we’re going to be turned away for crimes against looking fabulous.

I needn’t have worried; given the enthusiasm of the welcome we’re given, we may as well be Rothschilds (or Medici). Check-in is relaxed and conducted over a round mahogany table supported by a helpful golden cherub. It would have been over in seconds, but the lady at reception is so taken with young Master Smith, we have to take a few coo-breaks. And I need a few gawp-in-slack-jawed-amazement pauses: the ground floor is a baroque fantasy of over-the-top magnificence.

The foyer gives way to a domed and stuccoed antechamber, presided over by a sculpted marble dancing girl. Above each arched door is a painted neoclassical scene illustrating what awaits beyond (boozing for the bar, cards for the games room…), and each of those rooms is another straight-to-the-brain shot of extravagance. A 12-foot glass table glows in different colours; a chandeliered ballroom is multiplied into infinity by mirror-clad walls; improbably intricate patterns of parquet (dating back centuries, yet unscuffed and immaculate) – there’s so much going on that working out what to look at next makes your eyes dizzy.

It could so, so easily go wrong, this madcap collision of periods and styles: a few cherubs more and it could start to look like a bad dream in a rapper’s mansion, but through some mysterious alchemy or the heady Florence air, it works: it’s beautiful.

Ours is a junior suite on the second floor, where the decor pays tribute to the one-time lady of the house (19th-century banking-heiress aristo Eugenia Fenzi, wife of Baron Oppenheim, in case you’re into specialist pub quizzes), who was, it’s fair to say, a fan of roses. Our suite could teach Cath Kidston a thing or two about floral prints. Mrs Smith sniffs at the Annick Goutal bath bits; I manhandle the heavyweight crimson curtains out of the way to gaze down at the pool (where catwalk queen is now sunning herself), and Master Smith crawls straight into the ensuite to smash up a soap dish.

Oops. Given the provenance of everything else at Villa Cora, I panic that said dish is an Oppenheim heirloom, hand-crafted Murano glassware presented to Napoleon III on his wedding day by the King of Sweden, and retrieved from the wreck of the Titanic. This may have been the case, but when I ’fess up to the staff, they barely bat an eyelid and go back to fussing over the boy like adoring aunts.

That’s the genius of this place – aristocratic luxury plus passionate, personal service. It sounds an easy formula, but few hotels remember to make their staff act human – you just feel you’re being conveyer-belted around the building. Not at Villa Cora – these are real people.

You don’t even need to go out – literally, because there’s a network of underground tunnels linking the basement of the main building with the poolside restaurant and the subterranean spa in the Villa Eugenia. We head off to Le Pool to eat (Pasha in the basement takes over dinner duties in winter), entering the tunnel, emerging at the… spa.

It’s a labyrinth down there. Compasses reset, we try again, this time successfully finding the restaurant, where we plump (this is the operative word) for a four-course Tuscan tasting menu, delivered with a gastronomic flourish by a chef who clearly knows his way around a cow. We may not be exploring Tuscany, but at least we can give our tastebuds a tour of the region.

Mrs Smith has a facial booked the next morning, so – after getting well acquainted with the cornucopian breakfast buffet and introducing Master Smith to Florence’s only heated outdoor pool – she redescends into the maze in search of the spa. Leaving us to snoop around.

Our expedition takes us to the lift, up to the undiscovered heights of floor five (floor four requires an elevator key – it’s the Forties-themed honeymoon suite). The doors open – and we’re on the roof. A spectacular panorama is spread out before us: the Boboli treetops recede into a sea of alabaster and terracotta, dotted with domes and backdropped by hills. If there’s a better view of Firenze out there, I don’t need to see it; this one’ll do me.

I drag a freshly facialed Mrs S up to share the vista. She too is slack-jawed. We may not have ‘seen’ all of Florence, but we’ve certainly had an eyeful of it. Next time we’ll just have to stay in a worse hotel – that way we might actually go out.

The Guestbook

Whenever you book a stay at a Smith hotel with us, we'll invite you to review it when you get back. Read what other Smith members have to say about Villa Cora in the Guestbook below…


Stayed on

We loved

The food and the beauty of the hotel. the lovely rooms and ultra comfortable beds. Ten out of 10.

Don’t expect

Quality spa treatments because of a lack of good managment though the spa is gorgeous!

Rating: 10/10 stars


Stayed on

We loved

True luxury! It felt like an oasis. The shuttle into Florence was brilliant and we were basically dropped off wherever we wanted.

Rating: 10/10 stars


Stayed on

We loved

When in Florence... feel like royalty. Stay at Villa Cora, on the hillside above Florence, and you will be feted and pampered by the attentive staff. The rooms are befitting rooms in one of Florence's grand old palazzi - rich fabrics and impressive touches like fire places, with great beds and sumptuous bathrooms. The main rooms are very grand but have witty touches like an alabaster bar that changes colour at night. The pool area is fantastic - an oasis away from the heat of a Florentine day in the valley below. The poolside dining is a highlight - light foods and imaginative presentation. The shuttle bus down to the tourist sites is a major draw. You hop in and are whisked down into areas where tourists do not go (and cannot venture in their own vehicle). A quick phone call and they will pick you up when you are done for the day.

Don’t expect

With all this luxury, we were astounded that the hotel generously gave us a bottle of water "Complimentary for the first night of your stay" (only...).

Rating: 8/10 stars


Stayed on

We loved

This hotel is utterly stunning: fabulous décor, fantastic views over Florence. The staff is very friendly and helpful. We would thoroughly recommend Grand Hotel Villa Cora for a romantic treat.

Don’t expect

The shuttle bus is a little hit and miss and while the resturant is housed in one of the most sumptuous rooms you're likely to see with the most attentive and friendly staff, there is a distinct lack of atmosphere (but that may have been more to do with late-ish time in the evening).

Rating: 10/10 stars


Stayed on

We loved

I liked the gardens, the buildings, the room and the overall sheer glamour. We really could have been anywhere in the world. The villa offers welcome respite from frantic hot Firenze, teaming as it was with other tourists. The restaurant staff were particularly impressive and the 'barbecue night' by the pool was a terrific innovation; a great change from more pasta and pizza!

Don’t expect

The shuttle service to central Firenze is great; the return service a little more difficult to utilise and we spent a whole hour waiting in the heat. I suggest to avoid similar frustration, just grab a cab. (The walk in and out is easy too and worth doing; just depends on your time restraints, the weather and how many bags you are carrying). In our Classsic room at least, a small tiered stand in the bathroom would be welcome. There is simply nowhere to lay out toiletries.

Rating: 9/10 stars