Hotel La Gemma

Worth getting out of bed for

Florence is perhaps one of the most finely crafted cities in the world, from Renaissance feats of architectural engineering to leather handbags, to perfumes, to book-binding, and of course, artworks – if you’re in any doubt, just ask 19th-century French author Stendhal, if he’s not rapturously passed out in front of a Botticelli, that is. And the Cecchi family themselves have several artisanal backgrounds (evidenced in the hotel’s exquisite design touches). So, the the front-desk staff – who all have concierge training – can show you the very best, whether it’s exclusive access to studios of ceramicists, artists and sculptors, leatherworkers, jewellers and fashion designers (or a custom fitting in your room); private tours of classic and contemporary galleries; a day out with a top personal shopper (after all, Via dè Tornabuoni close by is a major shopping artery); workshops at famed perfumeries… And, they have a roster of historians and experts on hand to give deeper insight into the likes of the Basilica Santa Maria Novella, the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Galleria dell’Accademia, Vasari Corridor, Ponte Vecchio Bridge, Palazzo Pitti and Piazzale di Michelangelo – all of which are situated within easy walking distance of the hotel (some merely a block away). Or, you could imbibe another aspect of Florentine culture with a walk through the city’s buchetti, or ‘wine doors’, a small window where you pay and – as if by magic – a hand appears holding a full glass. Maybe fill up first with a street-food tour or cookery class, which you can arrange in and outside the city. And there’s more to discover still in Tuscany, with gin and wine tastings, knife-making classes, vintage cars to hire, truffle-hunting and more thrilling pursuits. You could take to the skies in a hot-air balloon or helicopter, or hop on horseback to discover some less-trotted corners of the countryside.

Local restaurants

The Florentines calling their cuisine cucina povera might be the biggest humblebrag of all time. Even those back-in-the-day peasants ate pretty darn well, and things have only improved since then, even if time-honoured techniques are still in play. You’re usually a spaghetti strand away from something delicious, but we’ve tried to whittle them down. Chic Nonna is in the Palazzo Portinari Salviati, and with its columns, coloured marbles, frescoes, statuary and such, hits Medici levels of grandeur, and the menu easily matches it with dishes such as caviar-topped clam linguine, pigeon with rhubarb and mulberry, lamb shoulder with hay-flavoured chamomile. Oh, the chic of it. Trattoria Sostanza is, well, not as grand, with its sensible white-clothed tables and random ephemera hung on the walls, but people don’t come for design tips, rather the pastas in the kind of simple sauces that give one ingredient its time in the sun, a bistecca Fiorentina the Baptistery could use as a doorstop, and a butter chicken that arrives lemony and sizzled to golden in a pan. Meanwhile, a window in elegant Ora d’Aria lets you see the dance of the chefs as they prep intrigues such as Amaro-slugged risotto with strawberry ice-cream, or tagliolini with coffee, cheese and pepper. And at Degusteria Italiano, there are themed seasonal tasting menus; the ones revolving around truffle and game are all very exciting, but – brace yourselves – there’s one dedicated to cheese, with aged-parmesan ravioli and pear mustard, a fontina and pumpkin roll in green-pepper sauce, and creamy robiola with hibiscus and walnut.

Local cafés

Florence’s sandwich game is strong. The whole roast pig in the window of Antica Porchetteria Granieri 1916 is a heavy hint at the porcine delights served here. And La Nicchietta in Calimaruzza has a seasonally changing menu of well-filled paninis.

Local bars

If you’re in for a fun night, go mad – Mad Souls & Spirits, that is, a lively low-key cocktail-slinger serving up the likes of Pisco with honey, black pepper, apple and sparkling wine; or mezcal with apricot brandy, blueberry and oolong tea. Be prepared to spill out into the street from Love Craft, a popular spot for the warm amber glow its many many whisk(e)y bottles emit. And for wine, Enoteca Pitti Gola e Cantina, opposite the Pitti Palace is an elegant Aladdin’s Cave of bottle and enomatic machines.