Palma might seem pocket-sized, but Mallorca’s capital holds its own when it comes to city breaks — not just among the Balearic islands but most other cosmopolitan, continental hubs. It’s got centuries of culture under its belt and has the monuments to prove it; it’s leafy and beachy; keeps up with the times in terms of culinary dynamism and style-setting; and it positively twinkles with Michelin stars.
So even at its manageable, walkable size, there’s a lot to cover — but don’t worry, our travel guide to 48 hours in Palma narrows down the choicest tapas, grandest plaças and most abundant mercats. Let us plot out your weekend break in Mallorca.
FRIDAY: EVENING
Palma Riad
With just 48 hours to work with, it’s handy that central Palma is only a 10-minute drive from the airport. Most taxis arrive via the coastal Paseo Maritimo route, so you’ll get an enticing glimpse of the harbour’s superyachts, cathedral buttresses and L’Almudaina Palace turrets as you pull up.
There are two ways your first night could go: one, lay low at Hotel Cappucino. It sits off-centre by Plaça de Cort, where the island’s oldest olive tree grows. We won’t lie, the tree looks its 600-plus years, but a popular pastime while drinking cocktails on the hotel terrace is spotting faces and its ‘ear’ (the Orella de Mallorca) in its girthy, gnarled trunk. The hotel’s bar has live music too, and within is a cinema where you can choose a película to enjoy in private.
Or, go all out: stay at Palma Riad on Carrer de Sant Jaume, whose Moorish cocktail bar is candlelit and soundtracked by a trickling fountain. Carry on aperitivo-ing at La Rosa Vermutería, an on-the-hoof, shout-at-each-other-over-plates-of-cod-stuffed-peppers-and-cuttlefish-croquettes sort of place, with light-to-dark vermouths. Steps away on Carrer de les Caputxines is El Caminito; lauded, counter-service ‘big brother’ restaurant El Camino is just across the road, but this new outpost is wanted for its limited covers, anchovies on toast and wall of wines. Finish the night on Nakar Hotel’s rooftop, when landmarks are magically lit.
SATURDAY: MORNING
Whether nursing a hangover or not, an ensaïmada pastry larger than your head — filled with traditional pumpkin jam, cream, chocolate or even spicy sobrassada sausage — is a welcome start to any day. Combine snacking and sightseeing at heritage bakery Horno Santo Cristo, which sits at the base of Can Forteza Rey, a fantastical, Catalan Modernist marvel designed by jeweller Lluís Forteza-Rey (but often mistaken for a Gaudí).
Then follow a trail of cultural canapés in anticipation of contemporary gallery Es Baluard’s visual feast. See dynamic up-and-comers at Galería Pelaires, star turns (Warhol, Richter, Basquiat…) at Gallery Red, and the sublime and surreal at Gerhardt Braun, all just a few minutes’ walk from each other. Grab a coffee at leafy Café Poupette (set by a playground, so suitable for families), then browse the 20th-century greats in Es Baluard’s 16th-century fort, not forgetting a visit to its sculpture-studded rooftop for city-spanning views.
SATURDAY: AFTERNOON
Concepció by Nobis
Just 10 minutes’ walk west, Palma’s culinary innovation fires on all burners in Santa Catalina, a fishing village turned neglected neighbourhood turned the city’s most desirable address in recent years. Lunching options are legion: pick at pinchos and sushi for a few Euros apiece at Mercat de Santa Catalina’s counters. Or dine without borders at small-plates stops — Thai curry croquettes or fish tacos at Naan; or strawberry gazpacho and teriyaki duck at Mola.
Next, explode your suitcase on a spending spree. Santa Catalina has boho homewares at La Libélula Home and treasures at Villa Vintage. Then wander along the polished pavements of main drags Avenida Jaume III and Passeig del Born. Men can buy tuxes, tennis-racket covers and more Bond-esque accessories at Brunello Cucinelli; Sessùn sells elegant resort wear from a dreamlike-deco Gaudí townhouse; Corner is for label-hunters; and Rialto Living is where many luxury hotels pick up homewares (as seen at hinterland hideaway Son Bunyola).
Feet flagging? Hit heritage boutique Alpargatería La Concepción, where Palma’s emblematic espadrille-style alpargatas line the walls. New colours are released each season, but all are comfy, stylish (hey, if they’re good enough for Michelle Obama) and the ideal way to hotfoot it to nearby Concepció by Nobis hotel’s lounge for drinks in Scandi-Mallorquin style.
SATURDAY: EVENING
Book well ahead of your stay to follow one of the island’s Michelin stars to Adrián Quetglas’s restaurant, beside the Torrent de Sa Riera canal. Dishes are swayed by the seasons, but judging by the complex edible equations of past dishes (turbot with seaweed gnocchi in garum velouté; stewed, dried fruits with cheese ice-cream and floral aromas), each of the tasting menu’s seven courses will surprise and delight. At €85 for dinner and €55 for a five-course lunch, it’s exceptional value too.
Bar Abaco is a 10-minute walk away, but the pull of the romantic deluge that awaits you within — supernova bouquets, alabaster statues, fountains, candles, veritable cornucopias — is strong indeed.
SUNDAY: MORNING
Today is for taking in Palma’s all-stars in the Old Town. But first, waffles. Lili’s on Plaça del Mercat has savoury and sweet toppings and is in pole position for sightseeing. From there, amble over to saffron-hued Plaça Major: a bustling spot once HQ to the Spanish inquisition (we bet you weren’t expecting that…), now a stage for street performers ringed with shops and cafés. From there, take Carrer de Jaume II, stopping to smell the strings of dried chillies and garlic in photogenic La Montaña deli.
Stroll past Fundación Bartolomé March and in front of you will be the Almudaina Palace (and its regally cultivated S’Hort del Rei grounds), the Cathedral and Arab Baths, the only existing Mallorcan ruins of 10th-century Arab rule — its citrus tree- and jasmine-scented courtyard is also lovely. The Cathedral (aka La Seu) is the sacred text of the city, a place of mysterious graves, skeletal gargoyles, secret light shows and other stories in stone — don’t miss Gaudí’s unrealised plans for the altarpiece and Miquel Barceló’s installation dedicated to Jesus’ miracle of the loaves and fishes. Peek into 15th-century guildhall La Llotja on the seafront (you can’t miss its turrets), which often hosts large-scale art installations.
SUNDAY: AFTERNOON
Lunch at neighbouring restaurant Urbà, a sophisticated adults-only spot basking in the sun atop El Llorenç Parc de la Mar hotel, where langoustine-and-mango-filled brioches and carbonara croquettes are accompanied by a sweeping seaside panorama.
Then stash your towel, sunscreen and shades in a wicker tote (local maker Mimbrería Vidal is renowned for its basketwares, FYI) and hit the beach. Can Pere Antoni is the closest — a scenic 30-minute stroll — but for a livelier ambience and chiringuitos (beach bars), catch a cab to Cala Major (also close to the Miró Foundation for a culture hit); or for sands with more postcard good looks, go further west to cove-sheltered Playa Illetas.
SUNDAY: EVENING
Catch the sunset right back where you started this 48-hour odyssey, strolling arm-in-arm along the Paseo Maritimo, rounding the curve of the port to Brutus restaurant, a concrete- and wood-lined palate-cleanser to Palma’s Gothic imagination. It’s austere in style but not when it comes to the hearty trattoria-style menu. It’s right next to Bellver Castle, so you can admire its imposing turrets (especially striking when illuminated) before you fly home.
GOOD TO KNOW
Transport There are direct flights to Palma from across Europe and North Africa. Once on the island, taxis are readily available (Uber operates in Palma) and the city itself is walkable between major sights of interest, although you’ll need a hire car for exploring further. Public transport is limited to buses, Metro stops in the outskirts, and the vintage train (which is more of an attraction) to Sóller.
When to go The Mallorcans might layer up in winter months, but the skies are more often than not still blue. Otherwise, spring isn’t just ideal weather-wise, but is culturally intriguing with its Easter fairs and festas.
What to buy In the Old Town, concept store Estiu’s wares are all handmade (many by female artists) and holds workshops and talks. For lifelong souvenirs, invest in Gordiola glassware, handmade Oxfords from Carmina shoemakers and ceramics from PK Studio.
Good to know There are several ways to aperitivo in Palma — stop into a cerveceria for a caña (small beer) and snacks; or knock back a sweet Palo (gentian root, wine, carob and caramelised sugar) or aniseed-flavoured Hierbas liqueur.
If you want another short and sweet Spanish break, see our weekend-break guide to Barcelona, go off the beaten track at remote Spanish stays or gear up for Ibiza’s beach-club parties