Sprawling, densely populated, vast: these are some of the adjectives regularly thrown around when discussing the mega-metropolis that is Mexico City (also ‘leafy’, thanks to its tree-lined boulevards and arboreal parks and squares). But when sticking to the main tourist-frequented — and yes, now gentrified and digital-nomad-populated — neighbourhoods, it’s surprisingly easy to navigate.
There are the Mexico clichés — the Mariachi bands and the margaritas — to be had, of course, but the Distrito Federal food scene is so much more than that, whether you want to dine at simple taco joints or one of the best restaurants in the world. Here’s how to spend the perfect weekend in Mexico City…
FRIDAY: EVENING
Colima 71
Start the weekend as you mean to go on by getting your priorities in order, by which we mean sourcing your first round of tacos. For something cheap and cheerful, Taquería Orinoco is hard to beat — it’s as ubiquitous as McDonald’s, but better. Slightly more civilised, but also with various outposts across the city, is Taquería El Califa, where you can try the city’s famous al pastor tacos (slow-cooked, doner-kebab-style pork with grilled pineapple) but also versions that swap the tortilla with melted cheese (which is precisely as good as it sounds).
At this point, if you’re defeated by jet-lag, you can retire to your hotel; otherwise, seek out the margs and mezcalitas. As the name suggests, La Clandestina is a secretive spot in Condesa; if you manage to find it, you can learn all about mezcal. Over in Colonia Juárez, you can attempt to locate (and enter) another closely guarded secret, speakeasy Hanky Panky.
For accommodation, most tourists stick to three main neighbourhoods, or colonías: La Condesa, Roma (subdivided into Roma Norte, Roma Sur and La Romita) and Polanco. But if you do want to stay in the thick of it in the Centro Histórico, check in to Downtown or Circulo Mexicano. In the heart of Roma Norte is Colima 71, a creative community hub with lots of artworks on show. In Polanco, try Casa Polanco — its exemplary, welcoming approach to service is a case of nominative determinism in action — or the all-suite, art deco Campos Polanco, which is perfect for longer stays. And at the southern reaches of Polanco, Alexander is a brilliant base close to the vast Bosque de Chapultepec park.
SATURDAY: MORNING
It may be a dangerous activity for anyone who has ever toyed with the idea of moving to Mexico, as it’s likely to have you packing your bags immediately — but a stroll around La Condesa, especially its elliptical Avenida Amsterdam, is the dream Saturday-morning activity, particularly for people- and dog-watching. Call by Qūentin Café (located at number 67a) for a coffee then hop in a cab bound for downtown to take in the almighty Metropolitan Cathedral — one of the biggest in Latin America. Also not to be missed is the wonderful Diego Rivera mural, Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Park, located at Calle Colón Balderas, which was displayed in a hotel for several years before miraculously surviving an earthquake in 1985.
SATURDAY: AFTERNOON
Pujol
Mexico City takes its food seriously, as you will see from the amount of recommendations in this guide that centre around the all-important art of finding somewhere to eat. And gastronome heavens don’t come much more prized than Pujol, officially one of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants for the past several years running — so be sure to book early to take your seat at Enrique Olvera’s celebrated restaurant. If your ideal Saturday is taken up by a lengthy lunch, come spend the afternoon here, otherwise you can book in for an evening sitting. And if you’re travelling around Mexico, you’ll be pleased to hear that the star chef has restaurants at various hotels, including One&Only Mandarina in Riviera Nayarit.
For something a little more casual, but equally delicious, see how the beautiful people spend their Saturdays (eating tuna tostadas and fig tarts) at Contramar in Roma Norte. With the help of its many browse-worthy boutiques, you’ll be in the perfect neighbourhood for some Saturday-afternoon shopping afterwards.
SATURDAY: EVENING
You’ll probably need a siesta to sleep off all that indulgence at lunch, but when you’re ready for more, it’s time for Mariachi music — and, since this is Latin America, things don’t get going till late, so you’ll have until 10pm or 11pm to rouse yourself. Plaza Garibaldi is the spiritual home of Mexico’s beloved folk music and Salón Tenampa on the square is the place to let your hair down until the small hours.
Ready for yet another bite? Head to Colonía Azcapotzalco and the original El Bajío outpost, founded in 1972, where you can go on an edible journey around the states and plates of Mexico. There are 19 outposts across the city in total, including one in Polanco.
SUNDAY: MORNING
Bosque de Chapultepec
Early risers should head an hour or so out of the city to catch sunrise at Teotihuacan, an archaeological site that was once a pre-Columbian city. For an extra-special vantage point, take a hot-air balloon ride over its Pyramids of the Moon and Sun as dawn breaks. For late-morning starters, Panadería Rosetta in Roma Norte (the bakery arm of a much-loved restaurant) is on hand to help with coffee and carbs — its giant baked goods are some of the best in the city.
Also ideal for a Sunday-morning stroll is the 1,695-acre Bosque de Chapultepec park, home to a zoo and the National Museum of Anthropology if you want to add a little variety to your wandering. Churros after church is a Mexican family tradition we can get on board with, even if we haven’t been to mass: El Moro is a heritage establishment with churrerías across the city, which has been dispensing sugar-dusted treats and hot chocolate to the people of Mexico City since 1935. For brunch or lunch, hit up Lardo in Condesa, where you can try some insect mole if you’re feeling curious.
SUNDAY: AFTERNOON
Over in Coyoacán, a neighbourhood famed for its cobblestoned streets and colourful, colonial architecture, Frida Kahlo’s former home Casa Azul awaits. Be sure to book your tickets in advance, as it’s one of the most popular museums in Mexico City. Call in to the Mercado de Coyoacán afterwards for a street-food lunch, or just more churros.
Or, if you want to head back to Roma Norte after visiting Casa Azul, you can try some Sinaloan food at lively lunch spot Mi Compa Chava, a superb seafood restaurant, or marisquería, where you can order piled-high platters (in some cases, literal towers), dozens of oysters and some spicy aguachile.
SUNDAY: EVENING
You guessed it — time for one last round of tacos. Round off the weekend’s well-seasoned intake with some more marvellous Mexican food at El Parnita in Colonía Roma or El Cardenal in the Centro Histórico. In just 48 hours, you’ll have barely scratched the surface of dining in Mexico City, but you’ve made a very good start – with plenty to spare for your next visit.
NEED TO KNOW
Transport The journey time from the airport to the city centre can take as little as 20 minutes but is traffic-dependent. It’s very straightforward to get around the city and to and from the airport using ride-hailing apps such as Uber — these taxis are inexpensive and you won’t have to worry about a language barrier. La Condesa and Roma segue into one another, so it’s easy to wander aimlessly between the two neighbourhoods.
When to go Mexico City is the perfect jumping-off point for many Mexican itineraries, whatever the time of year. It tends to be quite rainy between May and September; and the coolest months are mid November to early February.
What to buy Mexico City has some wonderful markets, which are likely to have you stockpiling pom-poms, woven-plastic bags, colourful textiles, handmade molcajetes (mortars and pestles) and perhaps even some Frida Kahlo dolls. La Lagunilla is a weekly flea market, held every Sunday morning in the Centro Histórico; Mercado Medellín is in Roma Sur; and La Ciudadela is sure to meet your souvenir shortlist, whether you’re in search of Oaxacan textiles, ceramics from Chiapas, wool blankets or silver trinkets.
Good to know Mind your step while strolling around the city, as erupting tree roots on public footpaths can be a problem.
See more of our 48-hour city guides