Let us introduce you to the world’s most exciting hotel chefs as we guide you through the gourmet getaway spots we’re hungering for…
Who’s in the kitchen?
Paola Arenas is the merited successor to Peter Sanchez-Iglesias at penthouse restaurant Decimo, located in The Standard, London. Hailing from the outskirts of Mexico City, with Sevillanos heritage on her father’s side, Arenas is the star that’s aligned with the restaurant’s Mexican-Spanish cuisine. She brings hand-me-down know-how from the matriarchs of rural community Milpa Alta, and with that a more personal, tradition-led and meaningful menu.
What’s cooking?
While Sanchez-Iglesias’s signatures (tuna tostadas, marinated red peppers) stay firm, Arenas looks ahead by looking very far back — her signature dish, halibut cooked till tender in a corn husk and served with roasted pumpkin seeds, is made using ancestral, Prehispanic methods. Wild bream with pistachio mole shows her tightly regional approach, while live fire cooking adds a touch of theatre.
Recipe for success
Arenas has spent 10 years working in refined restaurants across the Middle East and the United States, but ultimately her success is rooted in her history. She comes from a line of strong female cooks; her father taught her that a sense of welcoming largesse is key to keeping diners happy; and the inspiration for her farm-to-table cookery comes straight from her community. But she’s also dedicated to representing regional eats to show Mexico’s culinary diversity.
You took over the head chef role at Decimo from Peter Sanchez-Iglesias. What did you want to protect about his legacy, and what felt essential to make distinctly yours?
Chef Pete built an amazing concept here and he has been a great mentor to me. We worked together for over a year, and together we helped shape what Decimo is today. In that sense, you could say it is a legacy for both of us.
You’ve said, ‘In Mexico, nothing exists “just because” — we are a culture full of meaningful traditions.’ In what ways have you incorporated Mexican traditions into the dining experience at Decimo?
In basically everything. From the moment you walk into the restaurant, our goal is for you to experience great hospitality, something Mexicans are well known for. If you have ever been in a Mexican household, you will understand exactly what I mean. We really care that our guests have a great experience. For example, every time we had a guest at home, my dad would never let their tequila or mezcal glass go empty.
In our kitchen, our gastronomy is rich in heritage and culture — it is immense. We always try to incorporate a bit of my knowledge and experience into every dish we prepare. Many of my dishes are inspired by memories of growing up in Milpa Alta, watching my granny and mum cook something special for every occasion, making tamales and tortillas from scratch. For me, that is culture, heritage and tradition.
You also said that in Mexico, dishes aren’t just food but memory, heritage and love. Is there a specific dish or flavour that captures that idea most powerfully for you?
I would say all of the different sauces we [serve] right now in Decimo are a good reflection of that. Every time I try a sauce or cook something new, it has to click; it has to taste like home.
Your food is influenced by the rural Mexican community in Milpa Alta, outside of Mexico City. What were the challenges and joys of translating that inspiration into a fine-dining experience in London?
I would say the biggest challenge is the lack of certain ingredients that are essential to creating the full experience. Milpa Alta and the surrounding areas are well known for their agricultural heritage, which means you have access to some of the freshest produce, what we call now ‘farm-to-table’. The community there has women who’ve passed down culinary techniques and recipes through generations.
Finding the right suppliers or suitable alternatives can be challenging. At the same time, I enjoy working with local ingredients. The UK has some fantastic produce, and it is always interesting to keep learning and discovering new ways to translate the flavours and ideas I have in mind.
What’s important to you to pass on to the next generation of female chefs?
A message of encouragement: you will get as far as you truly wish if you work hard for it. You can do almost anything if you believe in yourself.
What do you think international diners still tend to misunderstand about Mexican food, and how do you challenge those perceptions at Decimo?
I think the perception of Mexican food is changing, which is fantastic to see. People are becoming more aware of what authentic Mexican cuisine really is, and there are many talented chefs around the world who are proudly representing our culinary heritage and helping to showcase the depth, diversity, and richness of Mexican food.
You work closely with Senior Sous Chef Habila Kliber. How does that dynamic shape the energy in your kitchen, and what does strong female leadership look like to you?
Habila and I joined Decimo at the same time, and I can honestly say that she has become the backbone of our team. We always strive to lead the kitchen with strength, clear goals, and a strong sense of purpose. At the same time, we truly believe that our team is like a second family. We spend so much time together in the kitchen that those relationships naturally become much more than just working relationships — they become family.
Where do you like to eat in London?
I like to try new restaurants from time to time, as I love food in general. Planque is one of the restaurants I recently visited, and it was great.
As for Mexican food, funnily enough, I usually eat at Decimo or cook at home. I have not really had the chance to explore authentic Mexican food in London yet, but it’s definitely on my bucket list.
When you’re missing home, what do you cook for yourself?
Enchiladas Verdes (meat-filled corn tortillas covered in a tangy salsa verde), I just love them. We serve a really good version at Decimo’s Saturday brunch.
Which emerging food trends — on the street or in restaurants — excited you most on your last research trip to Mexico?
[My team and I] visited several places, but we loved the fact that traditional spots are booming. We all fell in love with a place called Fonda Margarita, which serves one of the best breakfasts in the whole city. It’s insanely good and very authentic.
Which country is next on your radar for a gourmet break?
Definitely somewhere in Asia — Japan and Korea are top of the list.
Where are your favourite King’s Cross neighbourhood hangouts?
Tamila is a really lovely Indian spot who have a branch in King’s Cross, Morty and Bob’s does great cheese toasties, and Thai spot Supawan is adored by the industry and family-run.
Quick-fire round
You’ve been tasked with creating an in-flight menu. What’s on there?
A good beef stew with adobo (chilli sauce) and rice.
You’ve snuck some minis onto the plane. What cocktail are you making?
A Paloma, always.
What’s the first thing you do when you arrive at a hotel?
Drop my luggage, take a shower to freshen up and get ready to explore the city.
Room service: what are you ordering?
A chicken burger or club sandwich.
What’s your guilty-pleasure holiday treat?
Having a Michelada for breakfast to cure a hangover.
Favourite restaurant for blowing the budget?
West African fine-dining restaurant Ikoyi in London.
Time to serve
Learn how to make Paola Arenas’s traditional Mexican main.
Halibut cooked in corn husks
Ingredients
For the sauce:
– 200g toasted pepita seeds (pumpkin seeds)
– 20g peeled garlic, finely chopped or sliced
– 20g guajillo chilis, finely julienned
– 250g olive oil
– Salt and pepper
For the fish:
– 4 halibut fillets (150g each)
– 100g peeled fresh ginger
– 20g peeled garlic
– 100g olive oil
– 4 to 6 corn husks, soaked in hot water
– 4 lime wedges
Method
For the sauce:
Pour the oil into a pot that’s off the heat and add in the garlic. Bring the mixture to a medium heat and start frying the garlic. Once it starts slightly bubbling, add the chillis.
Keep cooking until the garlic is crunchy and has a golden colour — be careful not to cook it for too long as it can become bitter.
Remove the pot from the heat and add in the crushed pepita seeds.
Season the mixture with salt and pepper and set to one side.
For the fish:
Mix the ginger, garlic and olive oil in a food-processor or blender to create a paste.
Marinate the fish fillets in the ginger paste, season with salt and fresh black pepper, then cover the container and rest in the fridge for one hour.
Drain the water from the corn husks and shake them gently to remove any excess. Wrap the fish in the corn husks, making sure that each fillet is fully covered and the husks are properly closed.
Cook the fish over the grill or a hot, flat pan using a dry heat. If you do cook it over a pan, don’t add any oil to it. Cook the fillets for around two minutes on each side. (The cooking time will vary depending on the thickness of the fish; make sure to flip each fillet constantly to ensure it’s evenly cooked).
Remove the fish from the fire, let the fillets rest for one minute, then open the husk gently.
Squeeze a lime wedge over each fillet and pour over the sauce you’ve set aside. To make it extra aromatic, zest some lime on top.
Bon appetit!
Discover more destination-dining heroes with our Yes, Chef series, take a deep dive into Oaxacan cuisine or stay closer to home with The Standard and Mr & Mrs Smith’s guide to King’s Cross