There’s something in the water in Somerset. Or maybe the magic is in the soil — this is, after all, the home of King Arthur’s legends and Glastonbury Tor; a land of chalk hills, wooded vales and rolling fields. And where there’s good earth, there are excellent things to eat. Somerset has been on a winning streak of late, with some of the UK’s best chefs choosing to open restaurants here, lured by the proximity to extraordinary produce. Here, we raise a glass of cloudy cider to the best restaurants in Somerset — and our pick of hotels for post-prandial rest.
Osip
Bruton
Osip
Osip
Of all the towns in Somerset, Bruton is the most over-qualified in the field of culinary prowess. For a place of just 3,000 souls, it’s proven fertile ground for independent restaurants, wine bars and West Country delis. The biggest hitter is Merlin Labron-Johnson’s Osip, occupying a transfigured 18th-century inn a few miles outside of Bruton. Johnson’s Michelin-starred menus — which are seasonally changing, Somerset-inspired tours de force of field-to-fork dining — have been eating up column inches in food guides across the country. And for good reason: exquisite cooking aside, Osip gets between 70-90% of its produce from its on-site farms, and makes liberal use of Somerset’s edible wildflowers and abundance of foraged ingredients.
Where to stay
Osip’s refined farmhouse-style rooms are the perfect curtain-call on an evening of inspired dining. All four flaunt oak furnishings, beamed ceilings and a warm, caramel-hued palette.
Briar
Bruton
Briar
Neighbourhood bistro Briar has put down roots at Number One Bruton hotel, the premier address on the town’s high street. It was previously home to the first iteration of Osip, leaving its successor with big shoes to fill. Award-winning Cheshire-born chef Sam Lomas has risen to the occasion with gusto, taking the restaurant in a new direction with his inventive yet approachable West Country fare. Lomas’s menu of delectable small and sharing plates stands firmly on its own feet, tweaked daily depending on what’s in season in the kitchen garden or available from local suppliers. Expect dishes like cured brill crudo with blood orange and coriander, or Stream Farm lamb served with asparagus, wild garlic and a dollop of black-pepper yoghurt.
Where to stay
Spread between a Georgian townhouse and clutch of 18th-century cottages, Number One’s colourful country rooms are a showcase of West Country craftsmanship. The owners also acquired the charming Blue Ball pub next door, making Number One something of a triple threat.
Holm
South Petherton
Holm
South Petherton restaurant-with-rooms Holm is the brainchild of Nicholas Balfe, the chef behind hit South London restaurants like Salon and Levan. For Balfe, choosing to set up shop in Somerset meant cosying up to the county’s incredible produce, tapping farmers, butchers and growers at the source. With its pale-wood furniture and lime-washed walls, the dining room is restrained and modern — but you’ll find subtle nods to the building’s past, such as steak knives with elm-wood handles crafted from the building’s old beams. So, what’s on the menu? You’ll tuck into sensational snacks like Holm’s upscaled cheesy chips (made with Westcombe cheddar and pickled walnut); starters like beef tartare with lovage emulsion and toasted buckwheat; and hearty mains like the sirloin of English rose veal.
Where to stay
There’s no place like Holm. Named after English trees and shrubs, Holm’s seven rooms have mid-century leanings, with pared-down plaster walls and soft furnishings in burnt orange and ochre. Rowan, Hornbeam and Elm have egg-shaped freestanding bath tubs, too, that make for a perfect pre-dinner soak.
Augustus Restaurant
Taunton
Given its titanic standing among Taunton’s bon viveurs, you’d be forgiven for thinking that Augustus Restaurant was named after the Roman Emperor. But no — it’s a tip of the hat to Augustus Gloop, Roald Dahl’s little glutton in Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. One thing’s for sure: Gloop would like Augustus. This elegant bistro strikes a fine balance between cheffing know-how and bang for buck, meaning there’s a lot of good eating to be had. Say, seared Brixham scallops with garlic, parsley and pommes gaufrettes; juicy sirloin steak; or fillet of gurnard with chilli, ginger and soy. The wine list is equally impressive, filled with reasonable bottles from big-hitting regions like Burgundy, the Loire and Alsace.
Where to stay
Lord Poulett Arms
Set up basecamp at the Lord Poulett Arms, a centuries-old pub with rooms in the quaint village of Hinton Saint George. Welcoming travellers since 1680, this honey-hued inn is delightfully traditional in style, with crackling fires, cosy nooks and time-worn antiques collected on the owners’ travels.
Root Wells
Wells
Wells is considered England’s smallest city, an honour it owes to its vast English Gothic cathedral. You get a fine view of the stonework from the back windows of plant-led restaurant Root Wells, helmed by British chef Robert Howell. It isn’t exclusively vegetarian — you will find meat and fish on the menu — but Howell and his team are masterful in their handling of veg. It’s a small-plates setup, which lends itself to a generous spread of earthly goodness. You might have confit leeks, sweet and sour beetroot or crispy fried mushrooms with whipped tofu as some of your five-a-day, with a plate of pan-fried Cornish pollock or lamb kofte to add some bite.
Where to stay
Babington House
Babington House is about a half-hour drive from Wells. The Georgian manor was built in 1705 and has been part of the Soho House group since the Nineties. For all its weathered stone and croquet lawns, this Somerset staple learned to let its hair down long ago, bringing in youthful staff, on-trend art and the ever-popular Cowshed spa.
The Olive Tree
Bath
Bath has its share of fine-dining spots, but the Olive Tree at The Queensberry Hotel is its brightest burning star. Of the Michelin kind, that is — it’s the only restaurant holding one in the city. Chef Chris Cleghorn’s five-, seven- and nine-course tasting menus are the work of a master, crafted with the finest seasonal ingredients he can get his hands on. Depending on the menu you choose and the time of year, you might get Cornish pickled mussels, duck from Sladesdown Farm, Wye Valley asparagus, Cornbury Park fallow deer or Newlyn Market lobster. The cooking is cutting-edge but underpinned by classic British flavours, often presented in ways you’ve likely never experienced. Ever had carrot served seven ways? Now you can.
Where to stay
The Queensberry is made up of a quartet of Georgian townhouses, lending noble proportions to the rooms. Swing for the spacious Junior Suites (rooms 7 and 8); these were originally the townhouses’ drawing rooms and have original plasterwork and ornate fireplaces.
The Beckford Bottle Shop
Bath
Part wine merchant, part small-plates bistro, The Beckford Bottle Shop is a paean to all things that are good to quaff and scoff. There’s an easy-going atmosphere to the place: the service is attentive but relaxed and the dining room has a lived-in ambience to it, with weathered timber floorboards, a tin-clad roof and soft, studded-leather chairs that are perfect for kicking back in with a bottle. Chef James Harris spent 15 years working in acclaimed (and often Michelin-starred) kitchens before taking up residence here, turning his attention to seasonal snacks like salt-cod fritters, smoked cod roe with sourdough crisps and octopus escabeche with fennel, carrot, celery and dill.
Where to stay
8 Holland Street Townhouse
Bath pied-à-terre 8 Holland Street Townhouse is owned by gallerist and interior designer Tobias Vernon, who’s amassed an impeccable collection of art and design treasures. You’ll find pieces by Josef Frank, Rosemary Ellis and Man Ray scattered throughout the three exquisite rooms and living spaces.
Hungry for more? Explore our culinary collection, read our latest dining dispatches or browse our full collection of Somerset hotels