When to go
The north-westerly winds can be fierce here, but this only makes it extra-alluring to windsurfers, especially between March and September. When Marrakech is at its most scalding in the summer months, Essaouira can make for a balmy alternative.
PlanesThe nearest airport is the tiny Aeroport de Mogador, but flights tend only to be from Casablanca and Paris. Marrakech’s airport is two and a half hours away by car. Direct flights from Gatwick and Heathrow to Marrakech and Caablanca with Royal Air Maroc, GB Airways and Air France; from July 2006, EasyJet starts flying from Gatwick.
TrainsThere aren’t any trains, but you can get a coach from Marrakech and Agadir through Supratours (+212 (0)524 435525); the journey takes around three or four hours and costs up to 200dh return.
AutomobilesNo cars are allowed in the medina | so there’s not much need to have your own car in this compact seaside town | but if you do drive there | parking is easy. You can get a taxi to or from Marrakech for around 800dh and the journey takes about two hours.
TaxisYou probably won’t need any transport while you’re staying here, as restaurants and sights are never more than a ten-minute walk away, but if you do fancy a day trip, your hotel can organise you a driver.
Built into the medina walls, Heure Bleue hotel is an oasis of luxe in laid-back, countercultural Essaouira, the one-time playground of the likes of Jimi Hendrix and Bob Marley. Dotted with carvings and draped with fabrics, seductive African Room has a spacious king-size bed and black marble ensuite, as well as a fabulous fireplace – ideal for heating up windswept Essaouira nights.