Mr & Mrs Smith

For a quick local foray, stroll down Torstrasse to menswear boutique and event space SoTo at number 72 (+49 (0)30 2576 2070); among the limited-edition sneakers, cool Japanese imports and dandy accessories, we love the bow-ties and leather-covered bike chains. On Sophienstrasse, you'll find the Firlefanz puppet theatre (+49 (0)30 283 3560) and if you're feeling guilty about leaving the kids with the in-laws, there's a fantastic shop next-door selling traditional hand-made wooden Erzgebirge nutcrackers and figurines. Take the next left and dive into the pedestrianised Hackeschen Höfe to discover little shops, cafés, a cinema, a pool hall and the credit-card-teasing Berlin Fashion Network concept store (BFN).

Bandol sur Mer at 167 Torstrasse (+49 (0)30 6730 2051) flourishes the French flag with its excellent snails, foie gras and entrecôte steaks. It only has 6 tables though, so make sure you book ahead.Try a modern take on Vietnamese staples at Monsieur Vuong, a stylish spot for a laid-back lunch or supper at 46 Schönhauser Strasse (+49 (0)30 9929 6924).

Luchs Bar, adjacent to minimalist Mitte hotel Lux 11, is a popular drinking den – get there for pre-dinner cocktails and then move into its next-door restaurant.

Mitte newcomer Neu in the Heckmannhöfen (+49 (0)30 6640 8427) is great for a hearty seasonal brunch or early supper. Sip Asian tisanes at trendy tea room Chén Chè at 13 Rosenthaler (+49 (0)30 2888 4282).

You're already on Berlin's hottest guest list: hole up on Soho House Berlin's roof terrace for some serious people-watching. If you fancy a change of scenery, try Week-End, a hip club taking up two floors and the rooftop of a nearby residential block at 5 Alexanderplatz.

January Trend-seekers and trendsetters arrive for the first Berlin Fashion Week of the year; book your hotel room early. June Design aficionados descend on the hangars of disused Tempelhof airport for DMY, Berlin's International Design Festival (http://dmy-berlin.com), in the second week of June; look out for up and coming designers, including My Bauhaus Is Better Than Yours, and graduates of London's Goldsmiths college. July Fashion's most fabulous flock to Mitte's coolest put-me-ups for the popular summer Berlin Fashion Week (www.fashion-week-berlin.com).