Mr & Mrs Smith

Sign up for a Lao cooking class with the expert chefs from la Résidence’s kitchen. Little-known Lao cuisine is sure to be a hit at your next dinner party with a difference – when’s the last time you had pét làap (duck salad) at the Browns? It’s US$35 to learn how to prepare a three-course meal, US$51 including a market tour or US$91 if you fancy personal tuition from executive chef Nicolas Reynard, who can also experiment with French creations if you want to unleash your Gallic gastronome (surely better than releasing your Gallic gnome?). The hotel can also help with arrangements for cycling trips and gourmet picnics to local sightseeing spots such as Pak Ou Caves and Kuang Si waterfall. It’s also worth rising early one morning to watch (not participate in) the procession of saffron-robed monks take their morning alms. This being an incredibly important Buddhist tradition, visitors should be respectful, stay back and observe the etiquette of the ceremony (remain silent, don’t touch the monks, women should kneel throughout, no photos).

Dinner shows? The horror, the horror. Not this time, as Roots & Leaves (+856 71 254 870; Setthathilath Road; www.rootsinlaos.com) has a special setting amid lotus ponds, coconut palms and fruit orchards with traditional Lao music, dancing and food. Set in a 1960s colonial-esque building, L’Elephant (+856 71 252 482; Bua Vat Nong; www.elephant-restau.com) serves family-style French cuisine alongside traditional Lao dishes, using fresh herbs from the restaurant’s organic garden.

Inspired by the wine list at Phou Savanh? Head to Pack Luck Wine Bar (+856 71 254839; Sisavangvong Road), a cosy little spot in the historic old town, popular with the resident French expat community for its grapes and others for its grain.

Come on, seriously? La Résidence has the best view in Luang Prabang, and from 3pm–5.30pm the Doc Champa Bar is transformed into the home of the high tea with finger nibbles, French patisseries and the finest Lao coffee. Why leave your sanctuary? For those willing to wander, Café des Arts (+856 71 252 162; Sisavangvong Road) is, as the name suggests, French inspired, serving pasta, burgers, tarts, omelettes and crepes.

April Lao New Year, or Pi Mai, is celebrated for three days across the country, but in Luang Prabang the festivities can go on for seven days. Colourful street parades, including one that involves a sacred gold Buddha followed by monks holding black sun umbrellas, take place throughout. August Two festivals honouring the dead – Bun Salak and Bun Kao Pradab – occur concurrently this month. The highlight for visitors is the Nagas boat races on the Mekong. October Awk Phansao celebrates the end of the rainy season and the monks, who’ve been confined to a temple throughout, leave their retreat and are presented with robes, alms bowls and other necessities. At the same time, the river comes alive with the Bun Nam boat races.