Madrid, Spain

Tótem Madrid

Rates from (ex tax)$182.82

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 21 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR163.63), via, using today’s exchange rate.


Damn beautiful


Salamanca side-street

Just off upscale Jorge Juan, boutique hotel Tótem Madrid is a des res in one of the capital’s most sought-after neighbourhoods. Its urban charms don’t stop here, however: stylishly dressed and effortlessly cool, this buzzy bolthole is also blessed with elegant rooms, fabulous mixologists and a see-and-be-seen eatery.

Smith Extra

Get this when you book through us:

A signature Totem cocktail each at the bar and a bottle of wine (either white or red) on arrival, as well as free parking (subject to availability)


Photos Tótem Madrid facilities

Need to know


64, including three suites.


oon. Earliest check-in, 3pm. Both are flexible, subject to availability.


Double rooms from $182.82 (€149), excluding tax at 10 per cent.

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 21 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR148.75), via, using today’s exchange rate.

More details

Rates exclude the Continental breakfast of avocado toast, cooked-to-order eggs, fruit-topped pancake or truffled mortadella sandwich served with tea, coffee and orange or grapefruit juice (€9.50 each).


You’ll find rowing machine, exercise bikes and cross trainers in the hotel’s gym; for a more vigorous workout, ask staff to arrange a personal trainer for a high-intensity circuit around nearby Retiro Park.

At the hotel

Lounge, gym, free WiFi throughout. In rooms: flatscreen TV, minibar, air-conditioning, free bottled water, tea- and coffee-making facilities, organic Handmade Beauty toiletries.

Our favourite rooms

Pared down and understatedly chic, rooms at Tótem Madrid have a grown-up Farrow & Ball aesthetic, with deep-hued accent walls, floor-to-ceiling drapes and black-marble bathrooms. Bath tubs in Deluxe Attic rooms make up for a lack of views; the rooms are also surprisingly bright, thanks to Velux windows that let in plenty of Madrilenian sunshine. Smaller courtyard-facing Double rooms are still large enough to squeeze in a corner sofa. Corner Junior Suites have our vote for leisurely breakfasts in bed: throw open the three street-facing windows and let the breeze gently stir you from slumber.

Packing tips

A local translation of The Beautiful and Damned, to brush up on Castillian and classic Fitzgerald in one breath.


Tótem Madrid has two Deluxe Exterior rooms adapted for wheelchair users, who have access to the hotel from the restaurant’s entrance on the corner of Lagasca and Hermosilla streets.


All ages are welcome. Extra beds (€77 a night for over-3s) can be added to Junior Suites and Suites. Free cots for under-3s can be added to any room. The restaurant has highchairs and will happily adapt the menu for little Smiths.

Food and Drink

Photos Tótem Madrid food and drink

Top Table

Opt for a table to one side of the room for the best people-watching opportunities.

Dress Code

Pick up something casual-cool from neighbourhood favourite Sita Murt.

Hotel restaurant

Named after Fitzgerald’s tale of café society, Hermosos y Malditos puts a New York twist on impeccably sourced Mediterranean produce in pared-down Scandi-chic surroundings. Truffle, seafood and foie gras feature prominently on the menu; try the orange-glazed ribs or the scallops with spiced mango. On Sundays, Madrid brunch pioneer Café Oliver takes over the restaurant for guests’ eggs, pancake and coffee needs: grab the papers and refuse to budge until it’s time for your first afternoon cocktail.

Hotel bar

Dressed with electric blue banquettes, marble tables and tropical fronds beneath a glass roof, Malditos does a fine job of enticing the ‘damned’ it’s named after. Resident DJ João Ribeiro keeps up the speakeasy vibe by spinning everything from bossanova to ragtime Jazz until 2am (Thursdays to Saturdays). The mirrored bar is manned by mixologists in white lab coats – a tongue-in-cheek sign of how seriously the art of cocktail-making is taken here.

Last orders

Lunch is served 1.30pm–4.30pm, dinner 9pm–11pm, Sunday brunch 11.30am–4pm. The restaurant is closed Sunday and Monday nights. Tipples are poured until 1am (2am Thursdays–Saturdays).

Room service

Order from the restaurant’s full menu during opening hours, after which a light menu of sandwiches, cold cuts and sweet things is available around the clock.


Photos Tótem Madrid location
Tótem Madrid
Calle de Hermosilla, 23


Touch down at Madrid-Barajas airport, an international hub about 25 minutes’ drive from the hotel. Taxis are readily available, but you can also catch metro line C1 to nearby Recoletos station.


Madrid’s speedy metro network is handy for exploring the capital. If you’re venturing further afield, Atocha railway station is a 10-minute drive away and serves Renfe trains from across the country.


Madrid’s sights are best explored on foot: cheap public transport, plentiful taxis and charming streets render cars an unnecessary nuisance. If you do decide to bring your own wheels, the hotel has on-site parking for €32.67 a day.

Worth getting out of bed for

Ask Tótem’s staff for insider tips on the city’s latest on-trend haunts: they’ll happily sketch out a tailor-made itinerary based on your interests. Gawp at works by Miró, Bacon and other modern luminaries at the Reina Sofia Museum. Picasso’s Guernica is the pièce de résistance, but carefully curated temporary exhibits of contemporary artists are equally illuminating; its futuristic terrace restaurant Nubel gets our plaudits too. The streets around the hotel are brimming with indie boutiques and hard-to-find gems. Drop by Gallery Madrid for designer-sharp togs for Mr Smith or splurge on a pair of sky-scraping heels at Hannibal Laguna. Staff can also arrange off-the-beaten-path excursions. Snap Insta-worthy shots on a photographer-guided city-centre tour or get a bird’s eye view of the capital from its hidden rooftops. If cabin fever strikes, get up early and head to Atocha train station for a day-trip: Seville’s orange-scented streets and Barcelona’s lively nightlife are only two-and-a-half hours away.

Local restaurants

You needn’t stray far for a taste of Madrid’s buzzy dining scene: just a stone’s throw from the hotel, Jorge Juan is a hotspot for foodies committed to working their way through the capital’s culinary delights. Refined La Maquina has linen-clad tables, tantalising tapas and an impressive wall of bottles from Spain’s under-the-radar vineyards. Burger joint Dingo surprises with twists on all-American classics such as pulled-pork croquetas, grilled lobster and fried green tomatoes. Busy Ultramarinos Quintin is all exposed brick, whimsical ceiling foliage and high stools crammed around small convivial tables; stop by for melt-in-the mouth tartare, delicate Iberico ham and perfectly cooked pasta.

Local cafés

Rawcoco Green Bar is all about Californian-style healthy eating: drop in for cold-pressed juices, detox smoothies and colourful raw food bowls.

Local bars

Gin enthusiasts should make a beeline for diminutive Shuzo’s (+34 (0)914 35 9171) or neon-lit Jorge Juan 92 Gin Club (+34 (0)914 31 4282), both handily within stumbling distance of the hotel. Elegant brass-and-glass hangout Dry Martini Bar regularly features on the world’s best cocktail bar lists: pull up a stool at its glitzy counter for fresh-fruit martinis, one-off concoctions and the eponymous drink made just how you like it.


Photos Tótem Madrid reviews

Anonymous review

Every hotel featured is visited personally by members of our team, given the Smith seal of approval, and then anonymously reviewed. As soon as our reviewers have returned from this elegant hotel in Salamanca and unpacked their Miró prints and designer finds, a full account of their city break will be with you. In the meantime, to whet your wanderlust, here's a quick peek inside Tótem Madrid…

In the heart of the well-heeled Salamanca barrio, hotel Tótem Madrid is made in the image of its home city: pointedly stylish, impeccably dressed and with a marked penchant for laid-back cool. That’s not to say it’s try-hard or aloof. Staff are friendly and full of insider tips to make a memorable Madrilenian city break; rooms are grown-up and elegant, with lofty floor-to-ceiling windows, black-marble bathrooms and a confident palette of dusty jewel tones. Rustling up on-trend Manhattan-meets-the-Med fare, clean-lined restaurant Hermosos is as understated as its louche sister bar Malditos is opulent (think cosy velvet banquettes, lashings of brass and expertly mixed cocktails). Both are named for Fitzgerald’s novel The Beautiful and Damned – a fitting scene-setter of a moniker for Madrid’s freshest boutique stay.

The Guestbook

Whenever you book a stay at a Smith Hotel with us, we’ll invite you to review it when you get back. Read what other Smith members had to say in Tótem Madrid’s Guestbook below.

We loved

Modern historical features, professional staff, the location on leafy streets and cool shops. These are the best shopping streets for edgy fashion.

Don’t expect

Huge rooms.


Stayed on 1 Aug 2017

We loved

The charming, helpful front of house staff – the manager who bought us the newspaper of our choice when we didn't find the one we wanted, the receptionist who told us where to buy sushi for lunch, who'd give us an early family dinner etc... Just delightful. Good breakfasts too!

Don’t expect



Stayed on 24 Jun 2017

We loved

The tranquil beauty of the place. The specially cooked vegetarian and vegan tasting menus, accompanied by vegan wine.

Don’t expect

Air conditioning or a child-free infinity pool; despite a wonderfully separate pool for children, the adult-only infinity pool was annoyingly used by children with their parents, unchallenged by staff.


Stayed on 9 Jun 2017

We loved

The location of the hotel, the excellent staff and the comfortable rooms.

Don’t expect

Tea and coffee making facilites in the bedroom.


Stayed on 22 May 2017

We loved

Everything. Great location, great friendly staff, lovely room and an excellent cocktail bar. It's a lovely quiet area, with boutique shopping, bars, tapas and cafés all on doorstep. You can catch the big red bus just round the corner to take you to all the main sights.

Don’t expect

A pool.


Stayed on 11 Apr 2017

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