The Asbury Hotel

When it comes to beachside escapes, I admit that Asbury Park, New Jersey wouldn’t be my first choice, especially during the off-season autumnal months when there’s nary a soul on the sand. But in dire need of a break from the frenetic pace of New York City, I skipped the airport lines in favor of a ride on the New Jersey Transit. In two and a half hours, I’d reached my shelter for the next two days: the Asbury, a new 110-room hotel situated on the northern end of the city’s mile-long boardwalk.

The first new stay to open in 50 years, the Asbury Hotel is synonymous with Jersey Shore’s inspired post-slump makeover. Taking its cues from Asbury Park’s rich Victorian and rock ‘n’ roll histories, this seaside hideout is as cool as it is cosseting. Anda Andrei – who designed SoHo’s 11 Howard – has worked her magic here, transforming the lobby of a disused Salvation Army building into a plant-filled hub for live music and sociable games of ping-pong and pinball.

My Superior King room, though smaller than I’d expected, sported an uncramped, modern design: white walls and bedding, simple wooden bedside tables, and minimalist industrial lighting fixtures all hewed closely to the ‘less is more’ mantra, while the surprisingly spacious bathroom – stocked with products from one of my favorite brands, Malin + Goetz – was a joy to step into.

The hotel itself felt quieter than usual – not unexpected considering the low season, and my mid-week arrival – but I knew this would change with the onset of the weekend (though certain highlights like its rooftop pool, and film series under the stars, wouldn’t return until the following summer).

There may not be a restaurant on site, but there are plenty of tantalising options nearby. A 10-minute walk from the Asbury will lead you to Cookman Avenue which, along with some of its off-shooting streets, has become home to a host of new restaurants. For dinner, I decided to check out Reyla, a modern Middle Eastern eatery turning out inventive riffs on classics – the fava bean falafel is one enticing example – and addictive rounds of fluffy, hot-off-the-grill pita, perfect for dipping in hummus, and soaking up the saffron-tinged broth from the mussels I ordered. There are plenty of small tables and a sizable bar for solo dining, but this would also be a great spot for a group too, especially with all the shareable plates.

Back at the hotel that night, a small crowd of locals and guests had gathered in the lobby bar area for a weekly open-mic series. One of the Asbury’s on-site cultural perks is its year-round events programming, along with an adjoining art gallery that’s currently showing a collection of works by rock photographer Danny Clinch (ongoing through the fall of 2018).

The next morning after grabbing a quick breakfast from the hotel’s downstairs café counter, I decided to take advantage of the quiet day with a yoga class. Fuelled up on delicious coffee from the brand Jack’s Stir Brew (a favorite amongst New Yorkers), and a tasty Greek yogurt parfait, I headed out towards Kur Wellness Studios, which offers classes most days of the week – walk-in guests are welcome – along with a menu of spa services. With just three of us in the class, it felt like a private lesson.

Determined to stay on a virtuous path until dinner, I tried out Twisted Tree Café, which easily won me over with its filling and delicious vegetarian/vegan/gluten-free lunch menu of salads, sandwiches, and baked treats. Given that it was a Friday, I had some work to finish up before officially calling it the weekend, so I made my way back to the hotel where I settled into the lounge area with another cup of coffee and my laptop.

There were a few other guests flipping through some of the large photo books decorating the brightly-colored space, while another tapped away on his laptop. According to the receptionist at Kur, the hotel’s lounge area can be quite a welcoming co-working hub for guests and locals alike – in fact, it’s clear the hotel is anchored in the local community: the graffiti on the walls is by local artist Porkchop, baked goods at the Counter come from Confections of a Rock$tar and fresh flowers arrive daily from a nearby florist.

Earlier that day someone had recommended Pascal & Sabine as the perfect place for a Friday night solo dinner. The chic French bistro had a warm, unpretentious vibe, and one fantastic happy hour: $5 dollar glasses of wine and a well-priced selection of nibbles.

I treated myself to an order of deviled eggs and shrimp cocktail while I finished some reading, and lingered over my glass of chardonnay. When I saw the squat, rotund burgers arriving at many of the tables around me, I was sold. Along with a classic beef style – funnily enough called the Mr Smith burger – the menu featured a veggie version, which was hearty and sating, and accompanied by a stack of exceptional fries.

The next Saturday morning, I checked out early for my train, just as the bustle from a wedding was picking up. The lobby hummed with guests socialising and greeting each other over coffee and doughnuts as more trickled in. It was the fullest I’d seen the Asbury since arriving, but in two hours I’d be back amidst the throngs of Manhattanites, and so I was even more grateful for that rare solitude and peace I’d experienced when I checked into this buzzing bolthole.