Piazza di Spagna 9

Though the Eternal City is known for its rich history, cultural significance, and ancient architecture, the embarrassing truth is, my fiancé and I came to Rome for one singular reason: to eat.

We had both travelled to the city before; we’d seen and loved most of the sites, but this time, we had a different agenda. Rather than arrive with a lengthy guidebook or a map of the sites to visit, we came armed with a list of dishes to try. Carciofi alla giudia (deep-fried artichoke), cacio e pepe (spaghetti with cheese and pepper), bucatini all’amatriciana (pasta with a delicious cheesy, tomato-ey, chilli-spiked sauce)…

We’d compiled a menu, and our aim was to sample as much as possible. Our home for the next couple of days, Piazza di Spagna 9 hotel, was situated a short wander from the Spanish Steps, but despite its proximity to one of Rome’s most visited spots, the entrance was unassuming – we walked right past it when we first arrived. It’s incredible that the hotel managed to turn such a bustling attraction into a private retreat for travellers.

We rode a lift three floors up and were greeted by a small, art-filled lobby, and two glasses of ice-cold prosecco. The receptionist, an exceedingly kind American expat, was

expecting us, and gave us the lay of the land. The lobby sitting area feels more like your chic, art-collector friend’s living room, and leads directly into a library with tables set up for breakfast and a window flung open to show off a postcard view of the Spanish Steps. Music wafts in from the piazza below; the entire scene feels impossibly Italian – and almost too perfect – the hotel feels comfortable and welcoming.

With just six rooms, the hotel is more like a private residence. We learn that, while the stay is first and foremost a home-base for travellers, it mainly operates as an art gallery, with a rotating programme of installations and displays. The artwork, consisting of a number of limited, bespoke pieces, is all for sale, so you can take a little bit of Rome home with you.

Our glasses now empty, we stow our luggage in our room, and make a beeline for Trastevere, a neighborhood that holds many of the city’s myriad culinary stars. The streets are narrower here and it feels less touristy (you overhear people speaking Italian more than in other parts of the city), and the pace seems to slow. We were eager to try classic Italian eatery, Roma Sparita; here, we share a bottle of local white wine, and order two bowls of their famed cacio e pepe, along with some grilled vegetables (all harvested from the country beyond Rome) – a half-hearted nod to health… The pasta arrives in a bowl made entirely out of baked parmesan cheese – the sight nearly brings a tear to my fiancé’s eyes. The richness. The creaminess. The peppery perfection… The dish encapsulates what Rome is all about.

Afterwards – full and happy – we wander around the neighborhood, stopping for an Aperol spritz here and an order of Roman-style stuffed artichokes there. It’s exactly the kind of day we’d hoped for: sunny, and filled with lively conversation, lots of wine, and even more food… We round out our evening with a trip to the Giardino degli Aranci, a romantic leafy enclave perfumed with the citrus scent of the namesake orange trees dotting the grounds. Here, we watch the sun set over the city.

For this evening’s feasting, we decide on a small, quiet dinner near the hotel. We head back to our neighborhood, and stumble on quaint, laid-back Cantina Belsiana for some cheese and charcuterie, followed by lasagna. Despite the fact that Piazza di Spagna 9 is situated in one of Rome’s more upmarket neighbourhoods (Valentino and Bulgari stores are just a handbag toss away), it’s easy to find small, low-key cafés and restaurants hidden from the crowds. On returning to the hotel, we find it quiet and low lit with candles it feels like we’re coming home to our own Roman apartment. In the dining area, staff have set up a tray bearing whisky, grappa and assorted mixers for guests wanting a nightcap. Already giddy, we demur, and retire for the night with happy hearts and full bellies.

To our surprise, the hotel has a full breakfast prepared and ready for us the following morning. We chat with some fellow guests, and sip espressos, and freshly squeezed orange juice, devouring thin slices of cotto di Parma and salumi, croissants and French toast. Appetites sated, our plan was to stop by the hotel’s spa after breakfast for a bit of R&R. Despite the previous day’s gluttony, we’d walked several miles, so it was bliss to soak our sore muscles in the Jacuzzi.

The spa is hidden away in the hotel, which makes it feel ultra private. The well-kitted-out spa room has a hammam and two-person Jacuzzi; the space is lit by candles, decorated with orchids and essential-oil diffusers perfume the room with locally made oils. One relaxing hour later, it was time to head back into the city for one more day of exploring, laughter, and – of course – more cacio e pepe.