Palazzo Durazzo

I’m often travelling to Italy for my work as a chef, and my trip to Palazzo Durazzo was my third visit to Genoa of the year. It was the end of October, with autumn really setting in. I wasn’t there for the pesto in the height of summer or for the seaside, but to deepen my exploration of Genoese cookery.

I was over the moon to combine this trip with a stay at Palazzo Durazzo, which had been on my radar for a while, having read about it in a Financial Times article on Genoa. I immediately became fascinated by the images of its interiors — each suite designed in a different style by the owner and architect Emanuela Brignone Cattaneo, with the artist and designer Cesare Barro. In particular, the suite called Le Conchiglie occupied my imagination, with its ceiling covered with small sea shells in the most mesmerising patterns. 

I arrived at the 16th-century palazzo and instantly received the warmest welcome. After chatting to the staff, I learned that they all hold a very close connection to and love for Genoa, which made me feel in very good hands right away. I was shown to the Il Doge suite, a completely surreal room with a seven-metre frescoed ceiling and the most beautiful shells, collected from all around Italy. The service and my surroundings made me feel like royalty.

Another aspect of the suite I fell in love with was a spacious walk-in rainfall shower, complete with my favourite Diptyque Paris products. The light that streamed into my bedroom in the morning was a dream, enhanced by a view of the port — all of which made the perfect setting for my morning yoga practice. In the evening, when the shutters were closed and curtains were drawn, I enjoyed the most peaceful sleep I'd had in a while, which was much needed after a long stretch of days in the kitchen before arriving in Genoa.

Rejuvenation really became the theme of my stay. I booked into the private spa at the hotel, available in hour-long slots, and enjoyed the most sublime steam room, sauna, relaxation area, and assorted teas and refreshments, all to myself.

Another space that drew me in was the lounge bar, which had more high ceilings and a bookshelf-cum-bar central feature that was beautiful to look at, plus plush seating in warm, welcoming hues, meditative and tactile art by Sam Falls hanging on the opposite wall, and a calming soundtrack. It was all so immersive, and left me feeling supremely relaxed every time I entered the space.

While exploring Genoa, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the food at this time of year was just as abundant as being in San Fruttuoso on the Ligurian coast in July, when I would be soaking up the sun and eating mandilli de sea (a silk-handkerchief-shaped pasta). It really gave me a sense of the perennial richness of the region. I indulged in comforting vegetable tortas and focaccia col formaggio at Antica Sciamadda. I tried a delicious iteration of cima alla Genovese, a traditional Ligurian dish of rolled veal with sweetbreads, minced meat, breadcrumbs and herbs at Trattoria Rosmarino, along with a delicious sformato porcini (a savory flan, in between a soufflé and frittata), which was very exciting to see on the menu, it being porcini season. Likewise, at Anitca Sà Pesta, I had pansotti filled with greens and herbs and walnut sauce — I could taste the brightness of the in-season walnuts.

I was eager to visit Romanengo, as I always do when I’m in Genoa. This gorgeous sweet shop has maintained a sense of tradition since it opened in 1780, and has a beautiful café next door. My favorite coffee in Genoa can be found at Klainguti, particularly its marocchino; for the most velvety gelato, it has to be Cremeria Buonafede. All are within walking distance of Palazzo Durazzo, which became such a pleasure to return to after walking all day and seeking out the best cooking across the city.

A must for me on this trip was to visit the neighborhood of Castelletto, which can be reached on foot or in one of the beautiful art deco-style lifts taking you up to the most picturesque view of the city. I spent time at a small wine bar called Calice, which has a well curated selection of wines and a panoramic view on the terrace. I chose a glass of arneis, which was such a pleasure to sip while watching the sun setting on the horizon. Needless to say, I left Palazzo Durazzo and Genoa feeling completely refreshed and renewed, well fed and walking on a cloud.