Palacio Arriluce Hotel

We arrived at Palacio Arriluce Hotel on a warm afternoon in July, having travelled from another part of the Basque Country. It was a hot day, and we were immediately taken by the view over the bay — mountains in the distance, and boats gently bobbing in the water below. A very cold beer was kindly offered as a welcome drink, and the long journey immediately felt worthwhile. As we were a little early to check in, we relaxed on the terrace, sinking into the comfortable furniture and soaking up the atmosphere. Before long, Mrs Smith and I found ourselves having lunch: a burger I remember fondly, made from prime Galician beef and onions slow-cooked to a kind of surrender, all nestled in a soft, sweet brioche bun.

Both the welcome and the hotel tour were warm, gracious and informative — a brief explanation of the building’s history followed by a visit to our room, which was so beautifully designed, generous in proportion, and featured a gorgeous double shower. I do love a double shower. After a quick refresh and a short rest, we headed back downstairs. I let reception know we needed a taxi to take us to the Guggenheim, and to our delight, we were told that all hotel guests receive complimentary tickets to the gallery. The concierge kindly sent them to my email — a lovely touch that we truly appreciated.

It’s hard not to be impressed by the Guggenheim: a spectacular feat of Modernist architecture, all silver metal and glass, glistening in the evening sun. You don’t even need to enter the gallery to appreciate the space, as monumental works by some of the world’s greatest artists are scattered outside among walkways, bridges and waterways. But we did go in — and loved it. The permanent collection features works by Rothko, Basquiat and many others. There was a fantastic exhibition by Helen Frankenthaler that I particularly enjoyed, and another by Barbara Kruger that I liked less. Such is the rhythm of art.

After the Guggenheim, hunger returned. We made our way to a nearby square and hopped from one pintxo bar to another. We ate razor clams, croquetas, gildas and txistorra in bread, and we drank cider by the gallon, served in tumblers and poured from a great height.

The following morning, we had breakfast on the terrace: good bread, tomato rubbed to a pulp, thinly sliced ham, strong black coffee, a green juice and a plate of perfect fruit. There was an impressive spread overall, but we showed some restraint — due to a large lunch that lay ahead. Afterwards, we took a dip in the pool and sunbathed for a few hours. The pool overlooks the bay and has plenty of sunbeds, as well as a very well-stocked bar.

Around midday, we headed out of Bilbao to the mountain village of Axpe, where we had a reservation at the renowned Txispa restaurant. Axpe has long been on the map for food lovers, thanks to Etxebarri, the legendary grill restaurant that draws guests from all over the world. Txispa, just a few doors down, was opened only two years ago by a former Etxebarri sous chef. While both restaurants cook everything over fire, Txispa offers something different: a fusion of Basque and Japanese cuisine. It’s precise, delicious and bracing in its simplicity. The restaurant has its own farm, and guests are welcome to stroll through the crops before or after their meal. The surrounding fields are grazed by donkeys, horses, buffalo and striking cows with long, bendy horns. We had an unforgettable lunch, finishing with coffee and digestifs in the garden, overlooking the mountains.

Back at the hotel, we returned to the pool just in time for a sunset cocktail, as the day — long and generous — drew to a close. That evening, we went to bed early. Unusual, perhaps, for this part of the world, but our plans for the next day called for a good night’s sleep.

We left early the following morning, regretfully. One more day would have been welcome, but never mind — we’re already planning a return trip.