Lùme

Now I've returned to London and the non-stop pace of The River Café kitchen, where I work, my stay at Lùme in Sicily feels like a dream. Summer had drawn to a close and, for the first time I could remember, I found myself feeling a sense of relief. This year’s temperatures, combined with the long, relentless hours and the heat of the restaurant, had left me longing for a change of pace. With the days growing shorter, I was also keen for one last top-up of vitamin D before winter set in. And so, off I went to Siracuse and the island of Ortigia.

My initial idea of visiting Ortigia was to uncover the best spots to eat and drink, but something different happened when I arrived at Lùme. It immediately gave me a cue to recharge. As soon as I arrived, I was so warmly greeted with a coffee and a freshly baked slice of the most delicious, chocolatey, gooey cake from the hotel’s caffè, Allùmettes, a small restaurant space that is a platform for guest-chef residencies each season. As I was sitting with my tasty afternoon snack, the chef was making some sublime granola for breakfast for the week ahead. The sweet and nutty smell filled the space and I was already looking forward to trying it the next morning. But more on that later.  

I was shown to my room, La Seconda, which had a beautiful entrance that was really a room in its own right, with a gorgeous cushioned seating area and view into the internal courtyard. This became the perfect place to unwind and use for my morning meditation during my stay. 

There is so much thoughtfulness to the design and details of Lùme, creating an atmosphere that feels effortlessly calm and serene. The lighting, the relaxing colour scheme and the tactile textures throughout — all contribute to a sense of quiet comfort. 

A very short walk from the hotel is a scenic swimming spot, Spiaggia Diana nel Forte, a beach on a perfect formation of rocks. It was early October, which I imagine was just the right time to be there, with plenty of space to lay out my towel. I spent the whole afternoon shifting between sunbathing with my book and jumping into the clear warm water. It was exactly what I needed, totally clearing my mind.

Back in my room, that same feeling of calm continued. The bathroom felt like a natural extension of the nearby seascape, a space designed for lingering and unwinding. The waterfall shower was the perfect way to wash off an afternoon by the water, its exquisite cascade complemented by the cedar and floral notes of the Comfort Zone products. The focal point was a bath tub finished in pink, mother-of-pearl-effect tiles, whose warm hues and shimmering reflections created an almost luminous effect. It was wonderfully restorative, evoking the same sense of renewal I had found by the sea.

The next morning, breakfast was served on the rooftop terrace with a panoramic view of the coast and the city, the sun shining brightly, and a beautiful pastel colour scheme across all the furnishings and textiles. I enjoyed the granola that was being made the day before with delicious yoghurt and fruit, and a cappuccino, watching the boats sail past, and starting to feel completely refreshed by my stay. 

To continue my journey to full relaxation, I booked in for a restorative Ayurvedic massage, then I headed back to jump into the sea, this time at Spiaggia di Cala Rossa, a small beach, again just steps from Lùme and perfect for October, when the crowds are a little lighter. 

Not to be missed is the Mercato di Ortigia, where I was able to see the very best of Sicilian produce that was in season: pomegranates, prickly pears, persimmons, cicoria, as well as all the fish and seafood, beautiful capers, currants in all varieties and nuts, including local pistachios and almonds — things that are not easy to find to cook with back in London but at your fingertips here. Immediately, I started to brainstorm my next menu from all the inspiration to be found, over the perfect glass of Sicilian chardonnay and a light lunch at the nearby Fratelli Burgio, a salumeria and restaurant with a comprehensive Sicilian wine list and one of my very favourite spots in Ortigia. 

My sleep was beyond peaceful by the second night of my stay. La Seconda is designed exactly for this purpose, with the option of configuring the room as you wish, closing all the shutters and doors to create a snug space, along with a very comfortable mattress and an abundance of the softest down pillows. I fell softly asleep, looking forward to another gorgeous morning on the rooftop terrace, watching the beauty of Ortigia go by and reflecting on all the serenity gathered from my stay at Lùme, before a busy autumn back in London.