Il San Corrado di Noto

We arrived in Sicily with two clear intentions. First, to explore as much of the island as we could. Second, to start with some serious unwinding. I’d been before and had already succumbed to the island’s charms. Mr Smith hadn’t, so I wanted his first taste of Sicily to be unforgettable. We’d both been working flat out for months, so the plan was simple: a few days of indulgent stillness at Il San Corrado di Noto before we cranked up the adventure.

That afternoon had been anything but still. We’d hiked down into the Riserva Naturale Cavagrande del Cassibile, all the way to turquoise lakes hidden in the gorge, which I'd highly recommend — it's not far from the hotel. We swam, clambered over sun-warmed rocks and climbed back up as turned our legs to jelly. By the time we made it to Il San Corrado di Noto, the idea of dropping our bags and being handed something cold to drink was all the motivation we needed.

The approach to the hotel is quietly spectacular. Once a grand masseria, the place spreads itself elegantly across gardens, courtyards and ochre walls that were glowing in the late afternoon sun. Inside the gate, the world slows down. The staff welcomed us with warm smiles, took our bags, and offered glasses of fresh lemonade while we sank into the courtyard chairs. The scent of jasmine hung in the air and a gentle fountain kept time in the background. 

We were then taken to our stunning suite, which was a mix of rustic charm and modern polish. Stone floors, high ceilings (it was once an olive store), and double doors opening onto a private terrace with views over one of two gorgeous pools. Everything felt light, airy and quietly indulgent.

We couldn’t resist the call of the hotel’s main pool. Swimming there felt like starring in our own Mediterranean daydream. Sunloungers fringed the water and the only sound was the gentle splash as we swam slow laps — or in Mr Smith’s case, an ambitious attempt at an underwater length of the 100-metre pool that I politely pretended was possible. Aperol Spritzes on our terrace followed, the ice clinking, the air still warm on our skin. It was the kind of moment you store away for rainy days back home.

Dinner that evening was at the hotel’s Osteria Casa Pasta. Our server, Andrea, greeted us like old friends and we instantly told him to just pick his favourites for us. Out came the best parmigiana I’ve ever had, molten, rich and layered with just enough bite. Negronis arrived next, perfectly bitter and far too easy to drink. The wine flowed, each glass expertly chosen, and the sunset painted the terrace in soft, cinematic light. By the time dessert arrived we were lingering over every bite, as if eating more slowly might keep the evening from ending.

Breakfast the next morning was served in a garden so peaceful it felt like a private hideaway. Tables sat between lemon trees, birds flitted overhead, and the buffet was a treasure trove of pastries, cheeses, fruit and local delicacies. Freshly cooked eggs appeared at the table alongside strong coffee. It was the perfect launch pad for a day wandering the streets of Noto.

Il San Corrado di Noto is brilliantly placed for exploring. Noto is just down the road, the hotel’s beach club is within easy reach by car, or the complimentary shuttle, and you can head off to other parts of the island without too much effort. We had a hire car, which made things simple, though Sicilian drivers seem to treat road rules as polite suggestions. All the more reason to have such a blissfully calm base to come back to each afternoon.

Over the following days we struck a happy rhythm. Morning adventures to Baroque towns and quiet beaches, afternoons stretched out by the pool or tucked away on our terrace with a bottle of wine. Each time we returned, the staff remembered where we’d been and asked about our day as if genuinely curious. This mix of polished service and relaxed warmth is a rare thing.

By the time we left, we felt properly restored. Not just well rested, but the kind of reset that seeps into your bones. The hotel had slowed our pace, sharpened our senses and reminded us why we travel together in the first place. Sicily still had more to show us, but it was tempting to scrap the rest of the itinerary and simply stay put.