Locanda Rossa

With a few days to spare after a late September work trip to Paris, my sister and I were looking for an Italian destination that wasn’t terribly difficult to get to (read: close to a major airport) and which scored high on the unwind-and-relax scale. Enter Locanda Rossa, a Tuscan farmhouse that has been expanded to include suites and villas spread over 41 acres of rolling hills and lush olive groves. Just an hour and a half from Rome’s airport, the property is accessible, yet still gives you the feeling of ‘getting away from it all’ with the gravel roads you have to drive down, winding through dramatic Tuscan vistas. The stay is only half an hour from Porto Ercole – the well-heeled beach town that houses the lavish Il Pellicano hotel (we stopped in for lunch and didn’t regret it – the spectacular views were worth the price tag) – and a mere five minutes from Capalbio, a picturesque Medieval village with beautifully-preserved stone walls and a handful of terrific, authentic restaurants. A car is necessary for exploring the area, but you also might not want to leave the property, which, with its wide range of activities, paths to explore, and smattering of outbuildings feels like summer camp. Note: kids abound, so if you’re looking to enjoy the stellar free breakfast (don’t miss the local jams and freshly-baked cakes) in silence, then think twice.  

We arrived at Locanda Rossa late in the evening and despite our stay being slightly off-season (temperatures in October are in the sixties and low seventies), the property and restaurant were buzzing. We sat outside on cosy benches in a mowed clearing (which we decided would be perfect for a wedding or party, should we return with 40 of our closest friends) and ate olives and sipped a local wine while we waited for a table. The main dining room was packed (making a reservation is highly advised), so we ended up eating in the ‘bar room’ extension, which was – perhaps a little too – bright and more casual, but didn’t prevent us from enjoying a fresh whole fish, fabulous lasagna, and excellent wines. The food is thoughtful and local, but is not overthought. It feels like true farm-to-table cuisine, and if we had an extra day, a cooking class with the chef would have been high on our list. 

Exhausted from the travelling and generous dinner, we were eager to retire – and the rooms at Locanda Rossa guarantee a great night’s sleep. Renovated with cheery paint colors, printed fabrics and huge showers, what you might miss in rustic Italian decor is happily made up for in space and comfort. The contemporary rooms – outfitted with espresso machines, USB plugs (yes please), private gardens, and expansive bathrooms – feel like tremendous value and somewhere you could spread out in and stay for days. For breakfast, we walked to a glass-walled atrium adjacent to where we dined the night before. Gravel roads and grassy walkways connect the rooms to the dining area (one of the property’s two pools, flanked by beautiful chairs and umbrellas, is also here) and heighten the summer-camp sensation. However, here lattes are offered with any kind of milk imaginable (an uncommon delight in Italy) and guests’ attire ranges from chic sundresses to bike gear – evidence of the range of activities to partake in. 

The staff are attentive, but not overbearing, and the concierges were readily available to help with booking a wine tour for us at a neighbouring vineyard. They coordinated a handful of dinner reservations (venturing into the coastal towns of Porto Ercole and Porto Santo Stefano were highlights), and were able to suggest things to do in the surroundings. There’s a lot, should you desire adventures, from exploring the beaches in high season to mountain biking to visiting Nikki de Saint Phalle’s trippy Tarot Garden: a sculpture garden just down the road with staggering mosaicked forms and fountains that exist in stark contrast to the bucolic surroundings. 

We spent a lot of time traversing the countryside and exploring the small towns that dot the Tuscan Hills, but next time we return, I’ll be spending more time at the hotel itself. Even when fully booked, it's so spacious that you feel like you have room to roam, and with a full spa (that we didn't get a chance to use; it was booked) and luxurious lounge chairs, I was yearning for a few more days at Locanda just to chill. The WiFi was finicky, but perhaps all the more reason to return and simply unplug. The rural setting begs to be admired and enjoyed, and the overly comfortable rooms invite long sleeps. The restaurant is so good that there’s not much reason to leave, and the property is one that I’m eager to explore more. We could have stayed for days and not been bored. All the more reason to come back.