La Valise Mazunte

Set into a hillside along Mexico’s Oaxacan coast, La Valise Mazunte is somewhere that encourages you to slow down. Deeply connected to its surroundings, the hotel blends seamlessly into the landscape, offering immersion in nature without sacrificing modern comforts.

Though only an hour from Puerto Escondido and minutes from the beach town of Mazunte, this La Valise outpost (one of five across Mexico, from Tulum to Los Cabos) feels peacefully tucked away. As Mr Smith and I turned off the main road connecting the coastal towns and approached our destination, we spotted a yellow sign warning of crocodiles living in the nearby mangroves. As a lifelong admirer of these ancient beasts, this was a very welcome surprise. Adventure felt close! True to the promise, we were greeted by a quad-bike ride along a winding path past the resident wildlife, leading us up to our remote haven. When we got there, we were greeted by the wonderful staff, dispensing margaritas as we took in the panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean. Time seemed to slow; it was the perfect prelude to the days ahead — that rare sweet spot where immersion in nature offers both deep relaxation and a quiet undercurrent of adventure.

On our first evening, we took a walk down the hillside path to the hotel’s private beach; a hidden paradise situated between the towering rugged cliffs. From the wooden deck, we watched pelicans diving for their dinner against the backdrop of a Pacific sunset. The waves turned from turquoise to deep indigo and we wondered whether we would be having the same catch of the day for our dinner. Not quite, it turns out — ours was freshly caught marlin, perhaps a little ambitious for the pelicans but delicious all the same; especially when paired with a fresh pineapple salad and a local mezcal. Over the coming days, our dining experiences remained just as memorable (despite the mezcal). Locally sourced ingredients are a given here, and the chef’s menu is light, healthy and rooted in Mexico’s rich flavours.

La Valise Mazunte is situated within El Torón Reserve, a protected area abundant in endemic biodiversity. The retreat comprises 10 ocean-facing suites, thoughtfully designed by the architects Alberto Kalach and Ignacio Urquiza, both known for their environmentally conscious approach that blends modernist and typical regional designs. Using local materials and vernacular traditions, their work here reflects a clear respect for the surrounding landscape and the area's native flora and fauna.

One of the most striking architectural features is the rock pool. Built directly into the cliff edge on the beach, it sits close enough to the ocean that you get the occasional spray from the waves and can watch the crabs going about their business. It offers an immersion in the elements without the unpredictability of the open sea; which is particularly welcome on this stretch of coast, where conditions can turn rough and are often favoured by surfers.

The suites are designed with an open-air layout, with floor-to-ceiling wooden doors in every room that open onto private balconies overlooking the sea. During the day, with the doors open, the sea breeze and sunlight pour in; in the evening, the space feels cosy and attuned to the environment outside, yet sheltered. The sense of tranquillity continues into the decor; beautiful wooden shelves display local ceramic pots and carved wooden fish. Earthy colour palettes of chukum, raw concrete and wood combine to create a very calm minimalist setting. Just across from our suite was an infinity pool overlooking the cliff edge, offering a sweeping vista where the vast blues of ocean and sky merged. Wild birds swirl above unbothered. The successful intertwining of architecture and nature here is a great example of how design doesn’t need to compete, but subtly work with the environment to create an experience that feels special.

At night, in a bed so spacious I didn’t know anyone else was in it, Mr Smith and I drifted off to the sound of the waves below. Staying here has the unique ability of recalibrating your sense of time. Days stretch gently and you have no choice but to slow down and be on nature’s clock. Time to truly unwind is rare, and La Valise Mazunte offered it effortlessly and in abundance. Despite being far too excited for another quad-bike ride on our way out, we left wishing we could have stayed longer.