La Peschiera

Dazzling sea views are the sort of thing holiday dreams are made of. There is nothing quite like waking up in the morning, stretching and opening the curtains to reveal a stretch of sparkling blue as far as the eye can see. This is what Puglian boutique hotel La Peschiera has in spades, sitting by the azure blue of the Adriatic. The beauty of the hotel – a former fishery before its luxurious rebirth, hence the name – is that each of the 13 perfectly appointed rooms sit right at the sea’s edge. None of this ‘partial sea view’ business, or being charged an extravagant price to eye up a skinny slither of water. Each view is bold, generous and bountiful, just as it should be.

The hotel rooms are fairly low-key, with no luxurious products or personal touches to speak of, but these hardly seem to matter when you clock the view. My mornings here generally involved a tasty Continental breakfast taken on the terrace (you can order the night before and wake up to an array of goodies), which, yes, overlooks the sea, spectacularly so. This was done in my dressing gown, while I gazed out over the blue yonder. Then I’d read a little of my book, and take a dip in the sheltered rock-pools right in front of my room, because quite frankly it would be rude not to. We also found these natural pools to be an exceptional spot to sit and have an apéritif, surrounded by the dusky pink of the day’s end.

Should you find it in you to remove yourself from the terrace – I found it terribly hard – the hotel also has seven (yes, seven) unique swimming pools and a private beach with sunloungers. I discovered this because, yes my friends, my room had two terraces: one seawards, the other facing the array of pools and the unusual, angular bright-white building over which woven roofs cast photogenic shadows. The pools differ in size and temperature, and reflect the blue skies to dazzling effect. With so many to go round, there’s a wonderful sense of privacy too – we easily stole away to a private, romantic spot.  

We found this a great base for exploring Northern Puglia too. Most days, we headed to seaside resort Savelletri for lunch most days and we wholly recommend locally loved restaurant Alba Chiara for fresh-from-the-water picks right on the beach. Captivating historic town Polignano a Mare has a wonderful beach, and the medieval town of Ostuni – named the White City for its rabble of pallid buildings – is also a short drive away.

When we were hungry, we panicked not, because a hop, skip and jump away from the pools, is the hotel’s restaurant Saleblu, which leans out over the water, so you could practically fish for your own super. Thankfully they’ve got people to do that for you, and the Puglian seafood was the star of the show. Choose whichever is the freshest catch of the day, and try it carpaccio: raw, salty and as nature intended. Follow it up with a classic local delicacy, ricci di mare: spaghetti layered with sea urchins (just the coral, no spiky bits), which was rich with a punch--packing umami. The wine list is made up of thoughtfully chosen Italian classics, from near and far, and the staff are friendly, professional and eager to make your meal one to remember. 

This is what La Peschiera excels at: quiet, thoughtful service. We were well looked after by all, from the waiters and barkeeps to the concierge, who will help you to book local experiences should you have anything pressing on your to-do list, or simply make sure you have a printed copy of your ongoing itinerary and flight details. And, with heavy hearts, we checked ours and packed to ready ourselves for the trip home. However, to ward off sea withdrawal and end-of-holiday blues, we made a stop in Bari before our flight home to try some of the best focaccia in all of Italy (at just €2 a slice), a little taste to keep us sated before our return.