Experimental Marais

Frequent visitors to Paris often fall into familiar rhythms: arrondissements you navigate on auto-pilot, restaurants you always beeline for and itineraries that can end up a little stale — all very comforting, but sometimes a shake-up is needed. That’s exactly what Experimental Marais provided for Mr Smith and I — a refreshing reset in one of the city's most central and characterful districts.

As it was sunny, we trundled over from the Gare du Nord on foot — it took us a very manageable half an hour, crossing the iconic Place de la République and Marché Saint Quentin (the perfect place to stock up on cheese for the return leg). But for those not keen to drag a wheelie for miles, it's an easy metro journey whether you arrive in Paris by air or rail. 

The building itself is a brooding, Brutalist structure, but what greets you inside is a revelation: a beautiful central atrium flooded with light, arch motifs and diaphanous drapery that create an otherworldly calm. Tristan Auer has designed a space that serves as a fantastic flagship for the group, with Seventies aesthetics, a palette of creams, taupes and chestnuts, sumptuous leathers, Persian rugs and rich woods. 

We're led down a cavernous corridor to our expansive room, which has been decked out in every conceivable shade of white, along with a multi-coloured Ligne Roset Pumpkin sofa and glossy splashes of red. The wet room is colossal, with a gloriously powerful rainforest shower, hi-tech loo and very lovely bath.

Art has been deployed expertly at the hotel, from enlivening abstracts and quirky sculpture adorning the main spaces, to thrilling little nudes tucked away in the illuminated wardrobe. A petite workspace is provided for those determined not to switch off, but it's purposely close to the record player and well-stocked bar, complete with the delicious pre-mixed cocktails that feature in any Experimental Group stay. There was an array of vinyl on offer, but Mr Smith and I decided to curate our own playlist, spending a joyous few hours rummaging in the local record shops.

After a fairly hectic arrival, changing our Eurostar at the last minute due to unforeseen circumstances (read: having three dogs), we were glad we’d earmarked the first day for gentle exploration. The Centre Pompidou is on your doorstep, as is Musée National Picasso. The Louvre is a 25-minute walk away and the Place de la Concorde a little further across the Tuileries Garden. Fifty minutes on foot in the other direction is Montmartre and the Sacré-Coeur. The few hotspots that demand a metro trip — like the Eiffel Tower, the Père Lachaise cemetery and the Saint Ouen flea market — are no further than a morning commute might be.

But why would you ever leave the Marais? It’s ideal for shopping, from vintage (Selection and Citizen) to French high-street staples (Sandro to Sézane), and of course the iconic Merci concept store. Don’t miss Le Loir dans La Théière for the almost insurmountable lemon meringue pie (reader, I surmounted it); Parcelles for classic French fare; and Candelabra for tacos and the coolest drinks behind what looks like a well-used kitchen door. Bar Nouveau is beautiful, tiny and a riot of foxed mirrors and gorgeous glassware; and The Cambridge Public House is the place to go for something delicious and highly experimental – leek cocktail anyone? Though we had a good base knowledge of the area, the deeply stylish and infinitely helpful staff were always on hand to assist, dispensing their insider knowledge so we could really get the most out of the Marais.

After the excitement of the morning, a hot-stone massage was just what the doctor ordered. The hotel's petite but well-appointed spa houses a steam room and plunge pool, and there are treatment rooms offering all kinds of relaxing facials and massages, elevated by the use of Susanne Kaufmann’s organic ingredients. The therapist, like the rest of the team, was so friendly and accommodating, and kneaded out knots I didn't even know I had.

Afterwards, we floated down to dinner via the American Bar, sampling two more of the house specialities as we went. Staff had an encyclopaedic knowledge of the city's mixology scene, now committed to my Google Map of Paris Future Fun™. We had been a little hesitant when we saw Temple & Chapon was American in theme, but the execution of the menu was all French. My starter of red tuna with a sesame and yuzu vinaigrette was so spectacular, I returned to order it again before I even had a chance to file this review. And the crunchy choux and creamy pecan ganache was an almost religious experience — the very best of a Paris-Brest with a transatlantic twist.

In no small part thanks to the intel of the generous staff, we had the most wonderful stay in the Marais. The hotel opened our eyes to a new side of Paris, and reminded us to stray from the familiar every now and then.