Domaine des Etangs

Knowing that we had a long stretch ahead of us where we would need to frenetically try to combine parenting, work and endless travel, we decided to organise a weekend of proper rest and relaxation à deux – with lots of yummy food, of course. It was a little early in the season for a seaside option, so heading out on a countryside escapade made sense. Luxury hotel Domaine des Etangs, in Charente (a department in southwest France, probably best known for its cheeses, china, cattle and Cognac) appeared to be located in an idyllic rural setting in the middle of nowhere; therefore, it fit the bill.

Before booking, we checked that it wasn’t too complicated to get to, and we were delighted to find out that there was a direct flight – albeit from Stansted – to Limoges, which is only a 45-minute drive from the Domaine. And, we opted to rent a car – the ability for us to explore surrounding areas and (most importantly) try out local eateries, is a priority.

When the much-needed weekend arrived in early May, Justine and I set off for Limoges on a Friday PM. We landed, picked up our car and headed for the Domaine, while admiring the lovely country surroundings. Once we arrived – and throughout the entire weekend – we were enthralled with what we saw: Domaine des Etangs is an astonishingly beautiful and delightfully relaxing place. Some travel websites might wax overly lyrical about a location, but in this case, you can only fully appreciate the place and take it all in once you’re there.

The property itself is a looker: an 11th-century château with a beautiful formal garden, beyond which lie around 4,000 acres of lakes, forest, rolling hills and prairies populated by caramel-hued Charente cows. There are various other dwellings and cottages, too, all view-blessed, and a tucked-away working dairy farm we later discovered on a long walk.

What struck us as soon as we walked into the main house and were escorted to our room, as we passed through various salons, was that this property had recently been restored with incredible taste, attention to detail and to a high specification. It was clear that no expense had been spared and this must have been a true labour of love. We were so impressed that we enquired about the owners and were informed that this property had belonged to an affluent French family for two generations; one of the daughters had taken it over and had turned it into a boutique hotel.  Let it be known: we thank and applaud her for doing such an incredible job.

We had opted to stay in one of the just-seven rooms in the château itself, one dubbed Saturn, which was located in one of the towers on the second floor. It was spectacular: not only was it super spacious and had a fabulous bathroom (although we expected nothing less), but it also had luxurious sheets, fun artwork, great underfloor heating and the bedroom itself had an incredible domed wooden ceiling which you could stargaze through.

And, well, the food is definitely worth mentioning. Being a chef, my expectations are quite high and the Domaine’s dining met them. There’s one restaurant located onsite, just off from the main house. We were served lovely, interesting dishes, made using local and seasonal produce, most of which comes straight from the well-stocked vegetable garden. We had lunch and dinner there, and on both occasions were very content with the food, wine and service.  Breakfast, which is very important for my wife and I, was a treat. It’s served in a small dining room in the main house; and guests can help themselves in the adjacent kitchen, where a chef makes on-demand cooked breakfasts, and there are viennoiseries, fruit, juices and more. Instead of feeling like you’re in a hotel, it feels more like being in someone’s home.

In terms of things to do, there are both indoor and outdoor pools, a gym in a greenhouse, tennis court literally floating on one of the lakes (the best setting I’ve ever played in), amazing country walks or bicycle rides, horse rides, rowing on the lakes, and a fabulous playroom and playground for children. We chose a country walk, so began following the signs indicating paths to take – just one word of wisdom, make sure you know and are prepared for what you’re getting into and are wearing the right footwear, as our walk lasted more than three hours. It was fully worth it though, as you simply cannot tire of the idyllic bucolic setting.

We also took advantage of the spa, which was located in a beautifully restored mill adjacent to the main house, which, back in the day, had been used to grind corn. We highly recommend the couples’ treatment room – I don’t like to play coy, but you’ll understand when you see it…

We could easily have stayed on the hotel premises for the entire weekend, but since there’s only one restaurant onsite and the other (non-room service) eating option is a picnic. Given the rain, we asked the very helpful ladies on reception to recommend a renowned yet relaxed ‘local’. And so off we went to Chez Steph in picturesque commune La Rochefoucauld, which was a 15/20-minute drive away and had a hearty regional salad (with foie gras and gizzards) and a tasty steak frites. We didn’t have enough time, but for your drinking pleasure, Cognac is also close by.

The only disappointment was the weather; we were hoping for some spring sun, whereas it rained pretty much all weekend. But, given all there is to do, both indoors and outdoors, and the Domaine’s fabulous facilities, this wasn’t an issue. On the contrary, it made the weekend even more cosy and relaxing, and it made us want to come back in the summer, so we could fully enjoy the pool, tennis, grounds, outdoor eating… It’s a very special place, which I could not recommend highly enough, and it’s also a great place to celebrate a momentous occasion, en famille, or in a larger group, perhaps. But, like us, you may want to keep the guest list to just two.