DestinationBCN

Cruise, as we did, from the residential Gràcia district in the north of the city, down the Villa Augusta and onto the Passeig de Gràcia, and it was exciting to ride into the thronging, diverse city proper. Here in its heart, Destination BCN is a five-minute amble from Plaça de Catalunya at the top of that most well-trodden of attractions, Las Ramblas.

Anne and Miklós are the switched-on Dutch duo behind the nine suites at Ronda Universitat 11. Less a hotel, more a portfolio of unique apartments that resembles a hotel in design, in provisions and in layout, yet there’s a seclusion of sorts to BCN. The apartments feel concealed from view of the street in a building you’d probably never notice if you didn’t know it was there. We had trouble finding it, partly because the plaque is tiny, but also as there’s not much fuss about the entrance, and no foyer or reception to speak of. It’s as though you’ve been invited to pretend you live in this city, and you have always done so. A tiny, pretty mechanical lift falls into the entrance of the hallway and typifies the understated elegance. We were waiting for Vicky and Cristina to emerge from behind one of the other gigantic-handled wooden doors.

As quiet as this tucked-away spot seems, in fact you’re within walking distance of many of Barcelona’s most interesting places to eat, drink and shop. Journey on the Barcelona Metro and you soon get a sense of the sprawl; BCN’s centrality thankfully makes anything further out – such as the extraordinary la Sagrada Família cathedral – easily reachable via either of the two stations on its doorstep, Universitat and Catalunya.

Barcelona may today be a more watercoloured version of its hippier times marked by itinerant artists, but it remains architecturally exceptional thanks in most part to the father of Catalan Modernism, Antoni Gaudí. The obvious Latinate quirks are offset by this Spanish city’s edgy urban mindset, with a grid-like street plan not unlike Manhattan’s. Here the boulevard-like streets carve distinct districts or barrios. BCN too, is a marriage of both old and new Barcelona.

Luxury furnishings with rustic accents dominated our ‘Ghost’ apartment, which had been advertised as bathed in natural light. (It was more brilliant white and airy in décor: dimmer switches and eclectic lamps let us manage the atmosphere.) Even being there in winter, amid unusual daily downpours (hence the absence of sunshine), the open-plan space was serene and cosy. In what might be called the master bedroom – yes, there’s another bedroom, and two bathrooms in total – an exposed brick wall dominates, daintily embellished by small hanging plants. And if there were 10 in the bed and the little one said, ‘Roll over! Roll over!’ and they all rolled over – not one would even fall out.  Two separate dressing areas ensure utmost privacy, and there’s a sliding partition wall, so you can even reconfigure the room if that’s your wont. The space is clearly designed for living much more than it is for staying with stylised magazines the only noticeable product placement and little emphasis placed on branded cosmetics or other more obvious ‘luxuries’. We liked its functionality – the real perk is the spacious living area.

The kitchens these suites have are a highlight, and ours could step in just fine for a World Of Interiors shoot. So well equipped is it that on the few occasions we cooked, we were not left wanting for any appliance. It happened to be my birthday when we stayed and Mrs Smith popped out one morning without me knowing, returning with a bounty for breakfast. Fresh ingredients from the famous Mercado de La Boqueria off Las Ramblas led to a spread of plump gambas, juicy tomatoes and grilled bread with garlic and parsley. I can’t recall a more vivid or memorable plate to wake up to.

Ahead of the trip, we’d tapped one of London’s top Spanish chefs for a list of must-visit restaurants. (Sadly, as with lots of popular cities, it can be easier to eat badly than to eat well. We refused to make this mistake.) How could I not share some of our tried-and-tested tips? El Quim’s (Las Ramblas) famous baby squid, eggs and cayenne pepper – a dish so good, so comforting that it is hard to suppose anything more restorative after a night committed to the caña. Other than some dud service from tourism-jaded staff in Bar Cañete (El Raval), we ate extremely well: at Succulent (El Raval) we devoured stunning pan con tomate and tortilla; El Xampanyet (El Born)’s nautical aesthetic and seafood specialism offered up the best anchovies and tuna; and at Paco Meralgo (Les Corts) it was a temple of tapas involving stunning sautéed wild mushrooms and delicious, fiery patatas bravas.

Then there’s always your own BCN kitchen in which to experiment. Time in felt extended by the domestic comforts and roominess of the apartment. Less tempted to go out, and without real reason to do so, the two of us had fun staying ‘home’. There are hipper, buzzier, grander, and cheaper hotels, but here we lived and acted like locals, popping out for food and returning to our luxury home in between. We read, we slept, we cooked, we chilled. It’s an obvious, if uncommon, way to travel – and we recommend it.