The tables at the edge of the deck are where you want to be for frond-framed views of Mexico’s most sought-after stretch of sand.
Dress like a fashionable frond child in macramé maxi dresses, floaty fabrics and delicate shades of eggshell and ivory; Mr Smiths should take sartorial cues from the locals and don a crisp, cream-coloured Panama hat.
Tatewari has a dreamy beach-chic-meets-wild-west aesthetic: animal skulls sit alongside sweeping sea views and long, ghostly tasselled lights sway from the palapa roof. The food is unapologetically Mexican, so much so that you can order crispy chapulines (grasshoppers) to go with your guacamole or taste beef marrow sprinkled with ant eggs. Tacos and tlacoyos come piled high with expertly crafted combinations like flank steak and spicy chorizo or Poblano chilli, cream and prawns, but even the simple, classic soups here are worth ordering. The menu reads like a shopping list for the local market (mole, epazote, habanero, pasilla, Oaxaca cheese) and though there’s a token burger and a few salads, you’ll be doing yourself a disservice if you don’t dive straight into the traditional fare and top it off with the hotel’s bold house-made hot sauce.
Though the bar – which you’ll find in Tatewari – serves up all the usual wines, tequilas and artisanal beers, it’s really all about mezcal. There are 19 varieties and the bartender can put together a tasting selection for you, but if you’d prefer something more sippable you’ll find a menu full of mezcal cocktails, too, that are infused with spices and muddled with homemade syrups. Try the Tutú Tái, made with dried pepper mezcal, a syrup of berry, basil, kiwi and pineapple, and infused with vanilla, cinnamon and chamomile.
Breakfast is served from 7.30am to noon; the lunch and dinner menu is available from noon to 10.30pm.