Conversas de Alpendre

I was thrilled to get a chance to visit charming Algarve stay Conversas de Alpendre for a couple of nights in June. The hotel’s an easy 40-minute drive from Faro Airport – you pass scenic countryside on the way and the converted farm is tucked away behind an arch of pale pink roses. As first impressions go, this appears to be everything you’d want a boutique hotel to be: secluded with beautiful interiors and the friendliest staff. Conversas is family-run by owners Marta and James. They left Lisbon to live a more laidback lifestyle in the country and have turned the farm into a wonderfully calm, off-the-radar hideaway. Marta has a passion for interior design, so she’s responsible for making everything look so beautiful, from the woven laundry baskets to the stone-trough fountains to the retro Lisboa coffee-table books. All of these little touches make the surroundings a joy to be in – I felt like I’d truly escaped.

It’s worth noting that once you’ve entered the hotel from the front, you’ll then be shown a back route to use. This can be tricky to find from the outside so be sure to make a proper note of it on the map provided – Google Maps was way off, so it’s easy to get lost. On this visit to Portugal, I was visiting for a job and had planned to fly out a few days early for a mini holiday. I wanted a bit of calm and delicious local food, and when I arrived at Conversas, I knew it was just the right spot. After check-in, I went to explore my room. Marta has created a wonderfully cosy space using neutral hues, and I had a beautiful view of their rose archway with orange groves stretching out beyond. They made great use of the space, fitting in a little washing area, desk for working and coffee-making zone. Everything felt new and fresh, and I was very into it.

The rooms all look out onto the swimming pool, and the dinner and breakfast terraces hug the main building. The farm is a gorgeous backdrop to it all and the neighbourhood is quiet. If you decide to have dinner here, you’ll be offered a homemade (naturally) three-course menu (dietary requirements are catered for).  All ingredients are locally sourced and menus keep to a Portuguese-Mediterranean theme. I devoured everything, from the starter of a vegetable tart to the fried seabass main and tiramisu with blackberries for dessert. It’s good simple food, and for a night in it’s a wonderful way to while away an evening. 

One of my favourite parts of staying in a hotel is enjoying a big breakfast with all the trimmings, and Conversas delivered generously on this front. What didn’t they have? There were homemade warm buttery croissants and locally made yoghurt, honey and goat’s cheese, granola, fresh fruit, orange juice, little cakes, poached eggs with avocado and good coffee – they really thought of everything. I tried pumpkin jam for the first time too, which was a treat. From their warm welcome onwards, the family are helpful as can be and are more than happy to give tips on the best local lunch spots. I especially loved the low-key hang-out they pointed me to, which served regional dishes such as grilled red snapper in butter and olive oil with garlicky vegetables. Conversas is only a 10-minute drive to the beach and there are multiple stop-offs along this part of the coast. You can find places to surf and hike, and the water’s fantastic for swimming. The little Algarve beach town of Tavira is also worth visiting, where there’s a food market selling olive oils, honey, jams and other artisanal foodstuffs to take home. And this part of the world is a renowned location for golf-lovers, and you’re spoilt for choice when it comes to choosing your favourite green to play on. The famous Quinta do Lago Resort’s course is only a 40-minute drive away and the club has above-par Asian restaurants for when you’re done putting about.  

Although this part of Portugal is by no means untouched, it’s retained much of its rustic charm and it’s a pleasure to meander round these coastal roads. Seafood is in abundance and you could happily spend days exploring the pretty white-and-blue houses in neighbouring seaside towns. I would go as far as to say that Conservas has been one of the best staff experiences that I have reviewed. Arguably, the hosts make a hotel, and this family has really gone to new great lengths to make you feel at home here. Conversas was already an impressive renovation from a rustic farm into a boutique hotel, but it’s been made unforgettable by the family’s attention to detail. I hope to be welcomed back into the fold for another surfing trip soon.