Castelbrac

Paris, the Dordogne, the vineyards of Burgundy, the catch-all ‘South of France’ – these are the places British holidays are taken; the places where Gallic romances are believed to be found. Instead, Brittany – a word whose connection to Britain could not be more intimate – is perhaps considered, quite literally, too close to home.

But ask this: Where in the world can giant saline oysters, prehistoric-looking spider crabs, moules-frites, cider, or a steady session of Picon bieres be enjoyed without interference?

Brittany is a region with as many gastronomic calling cards as Bordeaux, Lyon or Toulouse. And although it can feel too obvious to say that stuff tastes better when eaten in its place of origin, in Brittany, whether to do with the mineral air or the temperate climate, their cultural relevance is unmistakable and razor-sharp.

Castelbrac is a monument in this quiet town. The 25-room hotel occupies the site of 19th-century villa, Bric à Brac, which in 1934 became a marine research station and aquarium. Initially built by the English Faber family who are said to have founded the town of Dinard, the hotel is the latest chapter in a storied history for the great building.

Service at Castelbrac is sensitive, sympathetic, and unobtrusive. There is no overexertion on behalf of the staff to disingenuously ensure you ‘have the best time of your life’. Instead, they are relaxed – in no way nearing a dereliction of duty, but offering everything only when it is requested or required. Too often luxury is synonymous with an overbearing approach to service and an exaggerated sense of care, more than the anticipation of guest’s needs. Not here.

Cheese omelettes for breakfast were enjoyed overlooking the bay, on a terrace above a walkway that winds its way around base of the hotel’s sea-facing side. In truth, in uncharacteristically chilly conditions for early spring, it was probably a little too cold to sit outside. And yet, given the intensity of the sun’s shine and the freshness of that sea air, braving the more hostile elements was a price worth paying. ‘Just get a jumper, mon frère!’ Exactly. It was the perfect start to the day.

While we couldn’t muster the courage to brave a dip in the sea, we did have a go in the pool. Built into the fortress, surrounded on two sides by manicured rockery, swimming in it is a charming experience – for a moment, at least, we might have been playing a bit part in a Luca Guadagnino film.

If doing lengths in a pool on holiday isn’t really your thing, you might opt to maintain the en vacances pace by booking in for a facial or massage at Castelbrac’s treatment room. Both come enthusiastically recommended from this particular Mr and Mrs.

Inside, our long narrow suite overlooked the bay, on whose gentle sea a postcard picture is permanently framed – small boats bob and, on the hour, a passenger ferry leaves from beneath the hotel to Saint Malo, a 20-minute journey worth making (itself an altogether more touristy, Gothic town with no shortage of shops to stock up on classic Breton striped clothing.)

In the rooms guests will find an understated, nautical brand of cool luxury. Many of the building’s original portholes have been preserved. Where they aren’t, enormous glass windows exhibit the view of the bay – with its almost surreal stillness of life – as a piece of art, whose complexion changes only as the the hazy morning sun moves through high noon to dusk.

To take a step back from the location and hotel’s particular serenity, a specific note on the room… A rare Japanese ‘spray wash’ (yes, one of those) Toto toilet in the bathroom will remain, not unromantically, one of the hotel’s most memorable features. That brand’s mission statement is for ‘first-class cleanliness’ – a neat demonstration of the hotel’s starry credentials.

Dinard, the town itself, is a little unremarkable. For this reason it is perfect. Its streets and weekend market – exhibiting many wonderful local (food) suppliers – are enjoyed less by tourists than by locals, who wander with their pets to the many bakeries, antique jewellery shops, and pharmacies. The advice is: join in and live like a local.

We were told by the hotel staff to visit a small bakery in the centre of town – Maison Moreau – for the best kouign amann: a butter-rich, condensed croissant-like lacquered cake dripping with salted caramel. Then there are local bars, where my recommendation would either be the aforementioned Picon biere (basically a Breton shandy), or a local cloudy artisanal cider, which is a speciality.

Castelbrac, though, is the real reason to visit Dinard. An excuse that those in search of the perfect weekend away didn’t know they needed.