The hotel occupies an 19th-century townhouse in Amoreiras, one of Lisbon’s most elegant neighbourhoods.
Lisbon’s Humberto Delgado Airport is the best place to touch down. It takes around 20 minutes to drive to the hotel; a private car can be arranged for €60 each way.
You won’t need a car in Lisbon – the metro, trams and buses are cheap and easy to use, and taxis have you covered for everything else. If you do choose to drive, bear in mind the city’s made up steep cobbled hills with many a one-way street. The Smith24 team can arrange your hire should you need it; the valet can park your car in a nearby car park for €15 a day.
Worth getting out of bed for
Casa Fortunato’s days as a private home may have passed, but we’d wager its living rooms have never felt more inviting. Ease into your morning with a yoga class in the softly lit studio, which can also be booked for private sessions. Flooded with light and strewn with stylish sofas, soft rugs and reclining lounge chairs, the library is exactly the sort of place that makes you want to linger for longer. The shelves are stocked with something for every sort of appetite, whether you’re in the mood for a five-minute flick-through or are looking for something to last your whole stay.
If the hotel’s interiors have inspired you to explore Lisbon’s art and design scene, there’s nowhere better to start than the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, named after the famously philanthropic oil magnate. Built in 1969 to house his vast collection of art and artifacts, this masterpiece of concrete and glass sits at the heart of the Gulbenkian Garden, a transportive park with the power to whisk you worlds away from the city streets. For a slice of modern design that you can take home, try LX Factory, a creative hub housed in a factory that dates back to 1846. At turns a textile mill, food processing plant and printers, this relic of old-world industry has now been turned over to Lisbon’s creative community, who’ve populated it with design workshops, fashion boutiques and concept stores. Príncipe Real is the place to find quaint cafés, independent galleries and antique shops; another classic neighbourhood is bohemian Bairro Alto, where the steep cobbled streets are lined with 300-year-old houses and hole-in-the-wall bars. Once there, it’s worth hiking up to the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, a landscaped garden with sweeping views across the historic centre.
For the classic Lisbon experience, try Taberna da rua das Flores, a pint-sized tavern with a few tables hugging the walls. The menu is rooted in the Portguese cuisine of yesteryear, presented on chalked blackboards that change daily according to what the chef can get his hands on. It may be small but its reputation is mighty, so be prepared to queue – they don’t take reservations. Taberna Moderna offers an updated take on this intimate and laid-back style of dining, serving Portuguese classics like black rice, oxtail and seared scallops in portions that are perfect for sharing. For atmospheric fine dining, book a table at Travessa, which has taken up residence in a 17th-century convent in Madragoa. Meals here are tinged with old-world romance and make a showcase of northern Portugal’s best produce. Another classic is Gambrinus, where the dining room is almost Tudor-like with its stained glass windows and dark wooden beams. All sorts of high-flyers have come through the doors over the last 75 years, lured by the quality of the lobster, crab and fish.
If you’re after craft beer, cocktails and a casual atmosphere, Pub Lisboeta does all three with aplomb, and has friendly bar staff who are only too happy to help. Sumptuously decorated Prócopio is the place for a hit of art nouveau glamour, complete with velvet banquettes, tasseled lampshades and barmen in bowties – you can leave your dinner jacket at home, however. Restaurant Pesca is first and foremost a seafood restaurant, but the cocktails here warrant a visit for drinks alone. If you get peckish, sample some of their oysters, which can be served au naturel or flavoured with mirin pearls, foie gras or cucumber water.