Part turn-of-the-century townhouse, part urban art installation, Artsy cuts a fittingly creative dash on the Cascais waterfront, half an hour west of Lisbon in the swank heart of the Portuguese Riviera.
Planes
Lisbon International Airport is about 40 minutes from the hotel. Not in a rush? Double the fun (and journey time) by taking the beach-strewn N6 coast road south of Lisbon.
Trains
Cascais train station is about a kilometre away, for direct trains to Lisbon and beyond. The hotel can organise transfers for €20, but you may find the short stroll through Cascais more appealing.
Automobiles
You’ll find the usual roster of international car-rental companies at the airport but, like Lisbon, Cascais isn’t a particularly car-friendly place and parking often comes at a premium. Artsy Cascais partners with a nearby car lot, where parking your vehicle will set you back a cool €20 daily. The town’s reliable public transport service includes frequent direct trains to Lisbon and a bus service to nearby Sintra, another Portuguese Riviera must-see where driving is not recommended and, in some areas, not permitted.
Worth getting out of bed for
If the Artsy’s collection (and indeed its façade) has whet your appetite for yet more aesthetic eye candy, you’re in luck. Step through the formidable gates of the mediaeval stone fortification just opposite the hotel to enter the Cidadela Art District, where playful contemporary sculptures and wall murals line storied cobbled courtyards; here a giant pair of binoculars, there an abstract fresco of a female nude. There are also a number of small galleries and an artists’ project room to explore. Keep your eyes peeled for Rafael Bordallo Pinheiro’s emblematic swallows (all 600 of them) and a replica of Dalí’s design classic, the Bocca Sofa, inspired by Mae West’s lips.
Want more? The Torre neighbourhood is where it’s at for oversized street art, including local boy Add Fuel’s eye-catching depiction of a Cascais fishwife painted in his signature azulejo tile style. Fans of modern art will also find much to enjoy in the Casa das Histórias Paula Rego, a brick-red complex with striking twin concrete pyramids, housing a vast collection of paintings, drawings and etchings by the late Portuguese artist.
But you came here for the beaches as well as the art, right? Expect broad Rothko-esque brushstrokes of golden sands and azure oceans along Cascais’ shore. Hit up popular Praia da Duquesa, overlooked by the Palace of the Dukes of Palmela, or mosey down to Praia da Rainha, named in honour of the last queen of Portugal who once frequented it. And if it’s good enough for royalty…
Daytrippers head north out of town for the windswept sands of Praia do Guincho beneath the Serra de Sintra hills on the Estoril coast. An absolute mecca for surfers, its suave setting snared it a starring role in the opening sequence of Bond classic On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Nearby Lisbon, a short train ride from Cascais, promises further settings worthy of the silver screen, all red-tiled rooftops, rumbling trams and fairy-tale palaces. It’s also worth catching the early bus to spellbinding Sintra, where the dreamy Moorish turrets of Pena Palace glow fiery tones of yellow and red in the morning sun.
Local restaurants
It may be more sophisticated seaside resort than traditional fishing village nowadays, but Cascais’ piscary heritage continues to loom large in the local cuisine. Case in point: O Pescador, one of the town’s most celebrated fish restaurants, literally translates as ‘the fisherman’. This cosy old tavern comes complete with beamed ceilings a’dangle with maritime memorabilia (ships’ lanterns, model boats, lobster pots) and walls adorned with old seafaring prints and photographs. Expect a pescetarian’s dream of a menu, featuring tuna and swordfish carpaccio, roasted Cascais octopus, and fresh lobster salads.
Seafront Mar do Inferno is a family affair with ocean views to dine for. It’s run by local legend Maria de Lourdes Tirano, a fixture here for half a century (give or take a few years), so you can be pretty sure your shellfish is in safe hands. Swig a chilled glass of vinho verde as you soak up those glorious coastal views, then dive into the belly-busting seafood platter of lobster, langoustines, prawns and golden bream.
Local cafés
Can you really say you’ve been to Portugal if you haven’t tasted sweet and creamy pastel de nata fresh from the oven? No, dear reader, you cannot. Hit up Sacolinha for some of the best in town. Or choose from any number of other breads, cakes and pastries to help tame those carb-y cravings.
Over at Le Good Place (we think that’s French for ‘the Good Place’) it’s all about healthy plant-based sweet treats and ethical specialty coffee from independent producers. Regular yoga classes held out front of the café add to le goodness.
Local bars
Don your exploding cufflinks and knife-throwing stilettos for a trip to the lavish Hotel Palácio, said to be where Ian Fleming found the inspiration for his James Bond character after witnessing a card game between enemy agents here during World War II. True or not, the hotel did star in 1969 Bond movie On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, and the fictional spy’s legacy lingers on at its wood-panelled Bar Estoril, a 1930s throwback as smooth as Sean Connery, where the 007 Martini cocktail comes shaken, not stirred. Pair with bar snacks – foie gras, caviar – as opulent as the surroundings.
Nautical navy and white decor sets the scene at Hotel Baía’s maritime-themed Blue Bar, a smart rooftop establishment with commanding bay views. Come for the spectacular sunsets and classic cocktails, stay for late-night live DJs and balmy Cascais breezes.
