Awasi Iguazú

As we cross the border from Brazil into Argentina, Mr Smith and I switch the token obrigado for gracias – about the extent of our local-lingo knowledge. Thankfully, when staying at Awasi, you’re appointed with your own four-wheel drive and expert guide for the duration of your trip, so despite not really having our bearings, we’re whizzed through passport control and onwards to our jungle lodge for the next couple of nights. 

Situated on the banks of the River Iguazú, surrounded by protected Atlantic Rainforest, the main lodge eventually comes into view – and with it a friendly face, offering us welcome drinks and hot flannels, which we gratefully accept as the midday sun beats down on us. Our charming guide gives us a few suggestions as to what we could get up to while we’re here. However, these are just suggestions. There are no set times or activities to adhere to, your guide will cater to your every whim, coming up with a completely unique itinerary based on your energy levels. Having said that, it’s obviously the nearby Iguazú Falls that are the main draw and the focus of our stay. After a hearty Argentinian lunch of flank steak with chimichurri, we spend our first afternoon taking it easy and making the most of our luxurious treehouse. 

Artfully decorated in neutral shades, our open-plan abode is a delight, with botanical artworks lining the walls and atmospheric lighting to set the mood. Despite the dwelling’s palatial size, it’s the huge windows which have the most impact, ensuring views of the jungle are never far away, whether that’s from the bath, shower room or giant bed. A masseuse dream team arrives after a while, setting up beds in our living space so Mr Smith and I can enjoy a synchronised rub-down without even leaving the room. Once they’ve packed up and left us to it, we simply spend the next few hours out on our private terrace appreciating the local flora and fauna and all the wonderfully exotic noises which come from the trees. 

The only thing that drags us away from our plunge pool is the promise of a champagne boat trip. Not quite the booze cruise of our youth, the pleasant excursion takes us to the point where Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay meet. Not much to look at perhaps, but now we can boast about visiting all three countries in one day. The on-board picnic keeps us going until dinner, where a daily changing menu is paired with exquisite Argentinian wine by Awasi’s resident sommelier. Whether you choose to sit inside the air-conditioned main lodge, or outside on the terrace, each place setting has an adorable wooden animal, carved by the local Guaraní tribes. Evening entertainment takes the form of Dogs & Jaguars – a strategy game similar to chess but with much cuter pieces – which is helpfully explained to us by one of the enthusiastic waiting staff. After a two-nil defeat, Mr Smith announces it’s time for bed. We tipsily make our way down the winding path back to our lodge where we find the tiniest frog is waiting for us on our pillow. After Mr Smith successfully catches our new friend and gently leaves it outside our front door (while I unhelpfully try to take photos) we fall asleep feeling far, far away from the rat race.

We’re up early – as jungle VIPs we have early access to the park, meaning we can beat the crowds and get the best views of the falls. Following a path which allows us to see the powerful cascades from all angles, we bump into a gang of coatis (furry critters that look like racoons with longer tails) going for their morning stroll. Once they realise we have nothing to feed them they leave us behind, with the baby of the group struggling to keep up. 

Flagrantly defying 1990s girl band TLC, we continue our waterfall quest via speedboat, this time getting drenched under a section of the gushing water. Our guide is waiting for us – with the cold drinks, delicious homemade cookies and fresh fruit which are pressed upon us at every opportunity. However, lunch awaits us back at base (and with it, a dry change of clothes). A speciality from nearby Paraguay, we tuck into an insanely delicious corn and cheese soufflé, which, despite the generous portion size, I’d happily have gobbled up again for main. It’s a good job I didn’t though, as then I wouldn’t have tried the pan-fried Pacu – a pleasingly meaty local river fish. 

There’s much debate as to which country is the ‘best’ one to witness the falls from, with locals explaining that from the Brazilian side you can ‘take’ the picture, while from the Argentinian side you’re ‘in’ the photo. So that afternoon we returned to the Devil’s Throat (the most impressive stretch of thunderous water, accessible via footbridge), where a rainbow has made an appearance especially for us, for our photo-call. 

Having walked around the falls, driven under the falls and taken approximately 6,000 photos of the falls, we spent our last night sipping cocktails from the hanging egg-shaped seats on the deck. Suddenly we’re presented with a wax-sealed envelope – the bill, so soon? No, it turns out the chef has taken the liberty of preparing a surprise seven-course tasting menu for us, with a string of emojis the only clue as to what was ahead. A keen Instagrammer, this is a game I can get on board with, although a quick scan confirms the absence of the aubergine. Phew. 

Feeling utterly spoilt, it suddenly occurs to me why each stay comes with a car and a guide – perhaps it’s to ensure we actually make the plane home. So much more than a hotel, from start to finish a stay at Awasi is an experience – and one which Mr Smith and I very much didn’t want to end.